I said that already...in fact I also said take a couple of plugs out and give it a whiff of EZ its what we do with non starting mowers strimmers etc if it coughs and farts then its not ignition problem...
Its broken.
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Henry_b
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Yep, until he does something its a guessing game
LetsHopeItFits
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Yeah, the first garage buggered the efi before they fixed the spark. If Id never taken it to them, Id have worked out it was the distributor and replaced it and it would have all been fine by January. Now the garage has absolutely cocked it up, so theres actually quite a bit of investigation needed to correct it.
I dont want to fiddle with it whilst its still advertised, incase someone wants to buy it
I dont want to fiddle with it whilst its still advertised, incase someone wants to buy it
LetsHopeItFits
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Well nobody bought them. Infact, since I listed them, not a single person has come to have a look. Thousands of views on eBay and facebook. Anybody reading this fancy them?
LetsHopeItFits
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Alright guys - time for me to pull my finger out I guess.
So heres the plan, please correct if you think I should be doing this differently
Step 1.) Charge the battery, buy a compression tester, do compression test and hope its not buggered.
Step 2.) If buggered - scrap?
Alternative step 2.) If not buggered, swap parts from the auto until it runs, drive to MoT center and hope cats arent buggered.
Sound like a plan?
So heres the plan, please correct if you think I should be doing this differently
Step 1.) Charge the battery, buy a compression tester, do compression test and hope its not buggered.
Step 2.) If buggered - scrap?
Alternative step 2.) If not buggered, swap parts from the auto until it runs, drive to MoT center and hope cats arent buggered.
Sound like a plan?
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I still think, after not actually seeing it, that is not seriously mechanically buggered
LetsHopeItFits
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No, it probably isnt, unless the fuel has damaged the bores.
The electrics however, well they seem to be another matter all together.
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Not even sure that's possible
LetsHopeItFits
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In that case should I skip the compression test and just start swapping bits?
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There's lots of reasons to have low compression, I'm not sure this is one of them. A test would still be good, a regular one, followed by a wet one of you get a low reading.
All the plugs out, throttle wide open, 3 or 4 compressions on the cylinder type checking to make sure you get a good reading.
LetsHopeItFits
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I had to google what a wet compression test was. Apparently its to spray some engine oil through the spark plug holes and do it again.
I presume thats what you meant?
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(I'll answer for him! as I happene to be here.)
Yes!
If the pressure then rises it means that the bores are worn, if they don't and it is down it means either you have a head gasket problem or a valve/seat is worn/burnt away.
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Just a bit, not tons! that'd put the pressure up!
LetsHopeItFits
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If its got low dry compression but good wet compression because the bores are bad, what can I do about it, short of getting new sleeves/liners installed, full rebuild etc.
In other news, someones just offered me a tempting deal on a 109 S3 5 door...
In other news, someones just offered me a tempting deal on a 109 S3 5 door...
AllanWorms
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If you can't sort out the basics of a Disco 1, I'm not sure you want to delve into the "fun" of a series...
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Sorry, can't see this.
Series are much more basic and therefore easier to work on.
Or do you mean "because they are old skool"
If he reads "First Overland" he'll see than ones from 1955 could go flipping anywhere!
Each to their own, eh?
LetsHopeItFits
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No more rustprone than a Discovery 1, surely? And the seller tells me its solid
Theres no such electronic wizardry on a series, although if course being a land rover there are plenty of other ways in which it can break.
But hey, my budget wont stretch to an 80 series landcruiser or a half decent patrol, so land rovers it is!
