EAS - My tale of woe.

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wammers said:
If you care to look in the "HOW TO" section there is a guide to how to step by step test the compressor for output AND check the diaphragm valve for leaking. It's not rocket science to check the most obvious things first in a logical sequence. It doesn't matter if the compressor is making 10 cubic foot a minute if the diaphragm is leaking not much is going into the tank. It was mentioned earlier but suppose you skipped that bit. Do things logically, you do not start to build a skyscraper from the bloody top downwards. It takes 10 seconds to check the diaphragm.
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Yes, I did check it as per your "How To". No air was escaping while the compressor was running. When the compressor stopped at one point it did release air like a dump valve, rather appropriately as that's what I almost did in my boxers when I heard it.
 
domino said:
Yes, I did check it as per your "How To". No air was escaping while the compressor was running. When the compressor stopped at one point it did release air like a dump valve, rather appropriately as that's what I almost did in my boxers when I heard it.
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OK now that you have established air pressure you can start to look for other things. Does the car now go up and down as it should. Do you have any diag?
 
wammers said:
OK now that you have established air pressure you can start to look for other things. Does the car now go up and down as it should. Do you have any diag?
Click to expand...

I do have diag - cable and EASUnlock from Datatek.

The car does raise and lower however it takes a while to raise up on most occasions. There has been no difference since swapping the compressor over this morning.

Most mornings it will be flashing when I get in the car to raise up so it has clearly dropped a little over night. Other mornings it wont and it'll be sitting at normal height with no adjustment needed. I've also seen it being up high and dropping down in the morning when I get in.

Edit: There are no errors coming up with EASUnlock apart from 'Vehicle has moved' which I believe is normal/standard behaviour.
 
The passenger side mid section of the exhaust was replaced a few months ago as it had a blow. I remember you mentioning before that the only time a pipe leaks is usually because of a blowing exhaust and the gasses melting the pipe. Problem is, I can't visually inspect them as they're bolted to the top of the chassis rail and I have no access to a ramp.
 
domino said:
I do have diag - cable and EASUnlock from Datatek.

The car does raise and lower however it takes a while to raise up on most occasions. There has been no difference since swapping the compressor over this morning.

Most mornings it will be flashing when I get in the car to raise up so it has clearly dropped a little over night. Other mornings it wont and it'll be sitting at normal height with no adjustment needed. I've also seen it being up high and dropping down in the morning when I get in.

Edit: There are no errors coming up with EASUnlock apart from 'Vehicle has moved' which I believe is normal/standard behaviour.
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Dropping slightly over night is not a big concern but it should rise within seconds after the engine starts, if it is retaining pressure within the tank. Rising slowly after being stood over night would indicate a pressure storage leak. The system has to wait for the compressor to build pressure before it can overcome the pressure already within the bags. Vehicle has moved is just saying that the vehicle has self levelled maybe due to a bag leak. When you said that at the side of the road with passengers out it was going up slowly that would indicate lack of air pressure. If there was good pressure it should jump up not rise slowly. That is why i said check compressor and diaphragm. The car will rise in stages firstly the rear will rise then the front then the rear then the front, it should then settle at it's selected height. When going down to a lower setting front drops first then rear. Sit in car and run engine for five minutes or so to ensure full tank, drop to access and then select standard, car should come up and settle in a few seconds. Post the results.
 
I'll do that just now but just to clarify, when I was at the side of the road everyone remained in the car as it was far too cold to have everyone jump out.

I'll go out just now, run the engine for 5 minutes, drop it to access and then when it's there i'll select standard. Will time it too and let you know what happens.
 
Okay!

Got in the car (having been out about 40 minutes ago) and as per, it was flashing when I started. Stopped flashing after a few seconds.

Let it run for 5 minutes. Grabbed my stop watch and started it at the same time I hit the down button. That took 20 seconds for the light to stop flashing. I then hit the stop watch again as I pressed the up button to go back to standard and it took 35 seconds for the light to stop flashing.

Not sure if it's helpful but I'll also add that once the engine was switched off I could hear the valves clicking away, even after I'd closed the door and locked it and walked away, they were clicking away.
 
domino said:
Okay!

Got in the car (having been out about 40 minutes ago) and as per, it was flashing when I started. Stopped flashing after a few seconds.

Let it run for 5 minutes. Grabbed my stop watch and started it at the same time I hit the down button. That took 20 seconds for the light to stop flashing. I then hit the stop watch again as I pressed the up button to go back to standard and it took 35 seconds for the light to stop flashing.

Not sure if it's helpful but I'll also add that once the engine was switched off I could hear the valves clicking away, even after I'd closed the door and locked it and walked away, they were clicking away.
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Valves clicking is normal after you get out and shut door. It self levels for 20 seconds each time the engine is switched off. How much it moves depends on ground it's sat on. Sounds slow coming up to me if you had full air pressure. Will have a do with mine tomorrow and time it as a comparison.:);)
 
I'll be heading out to pick up my other half in the next 10 minutes. While I'm sitting outside her office I'll do the test again and see if there's much of a difference, too.
 
So, 18 seconds to go down and 15 to get back up.

I'm on a flat here though - at home I'm on a slight downward slope.
 
Haha!

Anyway. Tried it again when she got in the car. 15 seconds to drop and over 1 minute to rise!

...and before anyone says anything, no, she's not 'heavy set' or an elephant :p
 
domino said:
Haha!

Anyway. Tried it again when she got in the car. 15 seconds to drop and over 1 minute to rise!

...and before anyone says anything, no, she's not 'heavy set' or an elephant :p
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Compressor should be tested as per Wammers' How-To.

If you park up and stick her on extended ride height, let her level then stop the engine and immediately pull out the delay timer under the passenger seat and then leave for the night you'll see if she is dropping or not. Shouldn't budge overnight. If a corner drops it is defective somewhere between the bag and the block - probably the bag. If all drop then an an issue with the block.

If all stays up then storage side somewhere. You can get a guage from Activ-Air with a bit of pipe and a T piece and splice it into the pipe that goes to the storage tank under the driver's seat. Should go up to 135-140psi. Once cut off you shouldn't drop much at all overnight, maybe 10-20 psi absolute max.
 
Have you got a Nanocom? You can record a live trace. If you record a trace for a 30 minute journey and post the file (save in a .zip archive) then we can take a look. Compressor shouldn't be running more than a third of the time really.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Compressor should be tested as per Wammers' How-To.

If you park up and stick her on extended ride height, let her level then stop the engine and immediately pull out the delay timer under the passenger seat and then leave for the night you'll see if she is dropping or not. Shouldn't budge overnight. If a corner drops it is defective somewhere between the bag and the block - probably the bag. If all drop then an an issue with the block.

If all stays up then storage side somewhere. You can get a guage from Activ-Air with a bit of pipe and a T piece and splice it into the pipe that goes to the storage tank under the driver's seat. Should go up to 135-140psi. Once cut off you shouldn't drop much at all overnight, maybe 10-20 psi absolute max.
Click to expand...
Since when was the air storage tank under the drivers seat?
 
Datatek said:
Since when was the air storage tank under the drivers seat?
Click to expand...

I was gonna say the same. Some voodoo BECM in my car then!

Got in this morning and it was at normal ride height almost. 2 flashes of the light and it was settled. Dropped off the other half, let it lower down for her to get out, once she was out, it came back up within 10 seconds or so.

Perhaps it's just possessed?
 
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