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Think the gear just isn't fully meshed so potentially could damage the teeth under shock loading.

The timing marks are there, just quite hard to see, they really are the best way to set each cylinder TDC so the rocker can be asdjusted. There's a photo showing the markings for no 3 in one of the pics in this post I did ages ago when rebuilding my TD5...

I'm sure that people have kept the same head gasket, but I personally wouldn't, happy for others to pipe up. To be able to reseal the cam carrier, you'll need to, first make sure you've locked up the engine with timing pins, remove the injector harness, remove the cam sprocket (potential for...

The PCV part number is LLN100140L, that's the thing worth checking first, for the cost of it I suggest just replacing it.

The head is bolted to the block through the cam carrier, you _can_ remove the cam carrier but you have to remove the cylinder head bolts. If you remove the bolts (which are stretch bolts), you shouldn't really reuse them, and the head gasket should also be replaced. So, you can remove the...

I think you should clear your cache and consider clearing any cookies relating to the site fery, you should not get a response from the old domain and the hosting should redirect you to d2bc.net/forums/

It's just as quick with Chrome for me...

OK so it's from the joint between the main head and the cam carrier, 2) in the photo I posted. TBH without pulling the head to bits which is a fairly hefty job, new head gasket requried/head bolts required, you might just have to live with the leak. As I wrote above, check that the PCV isn't...

Be advised that the 'early type' AMC head still uses the 15P rocker cover gasket, if you use the 10P one you'll leak oil all down the back of the head.

Is it smoke, or oil mist? Either way it sounds like combustion blow by, which is probably natural on a well used engine, but to fix could be new rings/block hone/bore etc. Your PCV could be blocked leading to a pressureised case, it's the black mushroom shaped thing that sits at the end of the...

It's working just fine for me fery.

Forum is available again, the hosting company have mucked up one of the domains and have been absolutely useless in getting it resolved, long story short that domain is now redirected to another one that the forum owns. Definitely a hosting issue, coupled with incompetent support.

The one I have fitted is made by Rakeway, the plate is AP, and the cover is Helix, so all quality clobber. I don't notice any judder on gear changes. Anyhow, I hope the OP gets this sorted as it sounds like a bit of a mare.

I don't agree that a solid flywheel will kill the gearbox, I've had one fitted for over 100k miles and my gearbox is just fine - you MUST fit a clutch plate with integrated springs however. As for vibrations and jerks, I think that comes down to driving style, if you like to sit very low down...

Yeah that plate is a major weakness in what's already not a great solution, I had a slickshift fitted which has a much stronger support post, but for some reason it did not get along with my gearbox, I ended up with the selector ball being forced out of the plastic bush twice - first time I had...

Yeah it's worn but looks worse than it really is, it's ~1mm. If it starts to rattle I'll whip it off and bang some weld on... I'll need to learn to use the mig I bought just before covid kicked in, never bought gas or wire!

Gear selections have been a right pain for a little while, I snagged a new bias plate suspecting the usual cracked off upright and set to work to find my suspicions correct: Amazing how much crap is in there given that all the gaiters are good. Whack in the new one and gear changes are much...

I think I prefer galv or paint to powder coat - I have powder coated front & rear HD bumpers, and sidesteps and it's all bubbled up with rust from underneath. Doesn't last 2 minutes with the salt they use on the roads round here. I painted these as I had it to hand and wanted it on quickly...

Wish I'd know that heatshrink wrap trick when I fitted my OME's the rear ones are a right state now. Good stuff.

Had a god awful squeak from the back of the car for the last 2 weeks, turns out that the spare wheel carrier had cracked all the way around the top left hand bolt. Probably quite easy to weld it up and put it back on but I think it would go again, because I have flipped it so my larger spare...