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Sounds like the best plan. I have an led light bar, so the headlights are just for dipped beam really. I’ll check the wiring and upgrade it if needed.

I have a decent set of crystal halogens, just thinking of an upgrade if this is one.

Hi, sorry I have not been on here much lately, I have a VW bay window camper which has taken over as most unreliable vehicle in the fleet, so I have been hanging about VW forums. The prices of LED headlights for Defenders has come down to silly levels on EBay. The non halo ones I prefer are at...

Just in case you don’t know he is on You tube. In case this helps the fix.

Just in case you don’t know he is on You tube. In case this helps the fix.

Just realised you said 265 tyres, yes that may make a difference, that’s why I needed spacers on mine.

If you can find an offset number on the alloys, most standard alloys are ET30 so they should fit fine without spacers as long as the lock stops are standard. I have just taken the spacers off my 110and put it back to standard, the ride is smoother and the steering lighter. I only had spacers to...

Maybe I am expecting too much then? I’ll wait till it goes and then replace it again. I might try an Allmakes one this time. Shame I didn’t keep the old rear pipe, there was no rust just the tailpipe had broken off the end of the silencer, I could have just welded on a straight pipe.

My 110 has been on the road for about a year and a half after a full rebuild. Unfortunately the new paddocks rear exhaust section looks like it’s just about to rot through. The rest of the system is “Walker” and was on it when I got it and still looks fine. I don’t want to go down the stainless...

Thank you, I think I’ll go and give it a go while it’s not snowing.....

Hi, my headlights seem to have gradually dimmed over the last year since I fitted them. Clear crystal with decent bulbs. I am toying with LED headlights, then thought about a boomslang loom, as it will be cheaper than buying the parts and making a loom?, then thought about checking the earths...

I'm interested in how you get on. My 110 has a clunk at the rear. I'm hoping it's the axle ball joint, but I have a horrible feeling it may be slack in the axle or the centre diff. I have rebuilt a few car axles and both Rover diffs in my 90, but the lack of info on the net on Salisbury axles is...

As above, except I have a 500mm light bar on each of my defenders. The depth of light is not as good as spot lamps but the light spread close up is way better, and they are not fast enough to need the long range light.

To be fair, I can fit my 90 in the garage and leave the handbrake off, so it's easy to diagnose faults. At the moment the 110 won't fit so I am limited to my sloping drive, which is useless. Once I have got the Christmas junk tidied and my new metal workbench made mobile, I should be able to get...

So, after a few weeks, I have made some further checks. The axle is nowhere near as bad as I thought, but the n/s halfshaft drive flange is still really slack, even with a new drive flange. So I'm trying a new halfshaft, and going from there. There is way more slack in the front diff, which I...

Eeeek, well, I'll start stripping off the back cover and see if I can figure out the slack in the system. I have rebuilt an Opel mata diff before which is the same type.

After owning my 90 for a while and working on both axles to some degree of confidence, I have now got a 110 as well. Unfortunately the Salisbury axle seems to have a lot of play in it, and sometimes makes a real clunking sound when turning a corner at slow speed. I thought initially it was me...

I've had problems with my 110 doing the same, just figured it out today......overadjusted hand brake drum, with a tight spot, I thought my axle was going to fall off. As above have said, tight or very loose UJs or even sticky brakes could cause juddering, or diff lock.

Mine reads high with a poor earth, once the earth wire on the back of the gauge is wiggled or cleaned properly with sandpaper it dropped back down. This has happened twice now when I have had the dash apart.

No idea on the original part worn pads, I left them in after fitting new disks, which I thought was the issue, so I fitted Motaquip pads as I have a trade account, which squealed worse. Now original fitted with the full new fitting kit, and a smear of coppaslip.