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This is the one I use: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1717580146#ProductDetails I think it was £50 when I bought it on Amazon 18 months ago and it is a useful thing to have around - makes a decent battery charger as well.

I was just speaking from my experience when I first got the ECU I have sent to you - it was still coded for the vehicle it came off and I plugged it in, in place of mine, expecting it to not start at all but it did start and run for a couple of seconds before shutting down. Ignition off and on...

I agree - my Mongoose cable and two Bluetooth OBD adapters all connect up ok and work fine on my car so it looks like something is wrong here.

Nodge, I've replied on Freel2 and if you pm me an email address I will send you the Drew Technologies 32 bit installer package - I can't seem to attach a file to a pm. The ECU I've sent you has been opened up by me so it could be reprogrammed to my car in a BDM frame. It ran fine after this...

The ECU is on its way to you now - if you plug it in as is the engine should start and run for a few seconds before the immobiliser realises it isn't the right one for your vehicle and shuts it down. That should tell you it if it fires all four injectors from cold, you will only need to get it...

I rebuilt the steering box in my 1990 Disco about 10 years ago with a new seal kit following the instructions in the Haynes Range Rover manual (the Discovery manual said it can't be done) and it's been fine ever since. It is a bit of a faff but you could always check the procedure in the Range...

You've got my vote - good luck next weekend! Cheers, Peter

OP = Original Poster i.e. the person who started the thread :)

Head gaskets come in varying thicknesses - is it possible that you fitted a thicker gasket than the one you replaced? If so it would lower the compression ratio and possibly cause your problem.

Hi Paul, I just sent a message to the email address you asked me to with a scan of the steering box info. Sorry it's probably too late but I hadn't realised you had sent it until until tonight! Regards, Peter.

I just do mine with rattle cans of primer and satin black paint whenever I think they need it. If they rot through it tends to be from the back of the bumper so if you do take them off it is worth cleaning up and repainting the backs with hammerite before you do the bits you will see with satin...

Paddocks are doing Goodridge braided hose kits (ignore the link that may have appeared here) starting at £25 + Vat and that is what I fitted a couple of years ago. I went 2" longer on standard springs with no problems - just make sure they are not going to catch or rub on anything and you...

I thought the oil leaks were designed in to stop them rusting underneath - shame it never reaches the sills or loadspace floor though! To have stopped the rot under mine it would have needed to use more oil than fuel.

You drain out what is left of the oil and squirt the liquid grease in instead. You can buy it in pre-measured sachets which you just squirt into the filler hole in each swivel. I can't remember the price but it is only a few pounds per sachet. The only tools you need are to remove the drain and...

You would save yourself some more money if you take GreenHornet's advice and replace the oil with one-shot swivel grease. Its easy to do without dismantling the hub although there is a school of thought that the grease can get flung onto the inside of the swivels away from the CV joint by...

I wouldn't risk it personally, tyres cost less than centre differentials (actually that might not be strictly true but tyres are easier to have fitted). If the rolling radii of the different size tyres are close enough it might not be any worse than continually driving in a circle. I was once...

Sorry, just re-read the last bit of the original post - I wonder if the resistor is just there to limit the current in the fuel shut off valve? If it is shown in the diagram and things work with it in, I would leave it there. I wouldn't have expected it to be in line with the charge light though...

Jamesmartin is right here - for the alternator to charge it needs current to pass through its field coil which creates the required magnetic field. When you switch the ignition on, current passes from the 12v feed on the ignition switch, through the charge light and down to ground via the field...

That's a good idea that I wish I had thought of! :doh: I will remember it for next time - many thanks :)

I think you might be able to adjust the linkages from the handles to the catch mechanism although it might only be for the locking bit and not the latch. This is from the Haynes manual: "Adjustment Front door lock The length of the exterior handle-to-lock link rod can be adjusted by...