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No, I did nothing other than plug the new head unit straight in.... In trying to unravel how the system is configured with Nodge68, it became apparent that the head unit itself is providing an amplified main speaker output. Whether the main speakers are further amplified by the amp under the...

Fortunately, it has been plug and play so far..... Outputs to all speakers.... Including the sub..... The HK amp under the seat is still doing it's bit and it's responding to the tone settings on the head unit... Early days, but looking good so far....

All that makes eminent sense......... I agree, I don't think that amp is doing anymore than tapping the signal and powering the sub........ For all the reasons you suggest, I've never sunk too much money into car audio.... Although, I have to admit to getting a teeny bit excited at the thought...

Ah, thanks for your insight... that's good to know..... In a way it's a shame, as in they seem to have sacrificed performance for versatility.... What little I know about car audio, are the principles brought across from domestic hi-fi... The whole purpose of a pre-power combi is to take the...

So, meandering back to the thread title about the unit itself, if we may ................. Cos, I is well confused............... I've decided to swap out the head unit due to problems with facia retention..... (there's a joke in there somewhere...) But, I still don't properly understand what...

Great knowledge! Thanks for that...... And that price!

Ooh intruiging....... So the enclosure is correct and the driver I've replaced, is itself, a replacement?

I hear ya! Is there an FAQ or reference for the different plastic plugs and trim fittings used around the vehicle?

That's a thought..... no fishing line unfortunately..... but perhaps a loop of copper wire...... that would hold it's own shape around the screw head whilst feeding it down the recess........

Thanks.... yeh agreed..., I'm struggling to find a flat bar that's stiff enough and long enough at the moment.... The fight goes on!

As the title suggests, I'm trying to get my remaining door speaker replaced but stuck at trying to remove the door card. My problem is that the screws spin in both direction so I'm struggling to get an extractor on them. Before I resort to brute force and butchery, any great ideas out there...

The replacement sub is here.................. As you can see, it's a drop in replacement........ The new one is much heavier and beefier than the HK supplied unit, with a substantial 30oz magnet. That, and a kevlar cone, delivered for £20.... dunno how they do it....... Initial thoughts...

Thanks.... Decided to blast it from the beginning, so straight in with 400 grit.... Work through 800, 1500, 2000, 3000 and then polish.... 5-10 min each grade.... less than an hour total/headlamp... Biggest problem when I started was buying the different grades without having to buy loads of...

Hey, FL1 with me less than a week and distinctly manky headlights.... Also been in in refurbish mode.... Before & After

I'm getting there slowly........... It turns out that at least 2 out of 4 of mine have gone.... One is working fine. The 4th is quiet, but I dont know why because I can't get the door card off! The screws securing the door handle are just spinning.... another problem I need a solution for! So...

The worst of it is..... but for a 'ha'porth of tar"....... The speaker was in really good nick.... all the usual failure points had been avoided. The speaker cone looked like mylar and the surround was a butyl rubber that hadn't deteriorated in the slightest..... The tape/glue residue is...

Turned out to be something I've never seen before.... The pole piece had detached from the magnet and shot off to one side thereby pinching the voice coil against the outer magnet. Further disassembly showed why... I've only ever seen a speaker where the pole pieces are riveted together to...

Well, I've had my Hallelujah moment...... I couldn't work out why one speaker tests fine on the bench and the rest didn't, even though they're identical to look at and measure for resistance of the voice coil....... I'm kicking myself for not seeing it earlier, but it was obvious once I turned...

Hi, I've got other threads going on the woes of getting speakers working elsewhere.... On this, I'm trying to get a feeling for who has had problems with their system and found that the problem has actually been the head unit or the remote amp? I'm getting the feeling that peeps that have...

So far, I have one good, working door - FR Two partially working doors FL & RR..... Have taken the main speakers out and both test fine on the bench... One dead door............ RL still to be tested..... Concentrating on the FL at the moment, just to get me a stereo pair at least...