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After reading all the articles I've decided to use 3309, just got 10ltrs for £30 delivered.

Clear as mud! Think I'll go for AW-1,thanks for the reply.

Hello all, Looking at changing my ATF, but I'm unsure of the spec. The manual says AW-1/JWS3324 for 2011 onwards, does this include mine or do I get JWS3309. Thanks Simon

Think I've read somewhere oil change at 20k and filter change at 40k

I can sell it for £75 if you collect or £80 including postage used once still in the box. The nut was extremely tight even using a 3/4" ratchet. Cheers.

Only 3 nuts and bolts, strange size though 18 & 21 mm, tight as well so make sure you have a power bar. Really very easy, I'd be more worried about the prop.

Refitted this morning it took 2hrs can't believe how quiet it is even the missus noticed, I'll attach pictures any questions feel free to ask. Thanks for all the advice fellas.

Diff rebuilt, and Haldex serviced, ready to be refitted tomorrow. Pictures to follow, I ended up changing the inner bearing it looked a bit rough so didn't want to risk it. Haldex pump was really dirty.

Yes the drive shaft was much easier than the prop, just 3 bolts on the hub and it will pull clear, then lower the diff on a jack once down remove the other shaft and pull it clear. There's a good Russian video on YouTube, removing and rebuilding the diff. Does your haldex have a large damper on...

I jacked it up just high enough for the wheels to clear the ground as you need to take a wheel off to remove one of the drive shafts. Axle stands rear corners of the chassis, I'll take some pictures before I refit it. There's plenty of room when you take the exhaust off.

It wasn't quite that simple the joint was fully recessed into what looks like a damper on the input to the haldex. I found an unthreaded hole at the back of the flange put a short 8mm bolt into it and managed to get a descent hit on it with a punch. All out now ready for the rebuild tomorrow...

Hi all started today, has anyone got any tips on how to remove the cv joint from the flange on the rear of the prop cheers.

I'll see what the inner bearing is like when I take it down. To buy a clutch plate is £70 and no guarantee that it will fit, I may as well spend £124 on the tool and sell it on afterwards.

Good point on the pre load, would you just tighten until there is no play?

Ok bought a disc with the complete manual on, and after watching and reading up finally decided to purchase the seals and bearing seperately as I want a Timken bearing. I'm only replacing the outer bearing as it is the smaller one and seem's to be the one that fails. The only stumbling block is...

not sure if I can download the workshop manual, as it's not in the drop down list only service, bulletins and diagnostics, don't want to pay and find out I can't get it. Anyone used Topix before any advice please.

Thanks for the info, sounds like you've done one before, do you have the bearing number, I've not used topix before can you download the files?

Hello all, I have a wining rear diff, just wondering if anyone has rebuilt one using the kits available, if so where did you get the manual from, is it included in the Haynes manual, or is there a specific workshop manual? Cheers.

Does anyone know where I can get the locking pins from, mine's due next year. Cheers.

Did it today, took about 1.5hrs to remove repair and refit, contacts were very worn/burnt. Works a treat now. Looks a lot worse than it actually is.