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Another new thermostat (checked it opens indoors), descaled radiator with harpic tablet (!) overnight, new sender installed. Runs, warms up. Will give it a more robust road test tomorrow now I've identified and repaired failed headlight switch!! Thank you for all advice - fingers crossed it works!

That's got me thinking now, I did put my hand on the rad and noticed it really wasn't that hot at all. I'd expect to have to flinch away from it at least, with the needle in the red. Further searching on tinterweb has me thinking about the state of earthing connections - something to check on...

Thanks BFG Coolant wasn't lost at any stage, even when it went into the red. Coolant last changed 10th May 2017, rad is a proper brass-ended one as like you I didn't fancy chinese plastic floating about. Other than that I've drawn a blank as to the underlying cause, but leaning towards your...

I'm looking for some advice from more experienced owners please. I took the LR on a longish trip of about 100miles to the south coast. Much was on dual carriageway at about 60-65mph. All was well temperature wise for about 50miles, then the gauge went right over into the red. Stopped, carefully...

Possibilities might be 1) drill and tap a thread, wind in bolt through a cover plate to extract the bit, 2) drill and use an ezi-out, 3) if you can get to it, weld a rod onto the end and pull out, 4) dismantle the diff so you can extract through the other side. Options 1-2 may well put swarf...

When I got mine I took it off the road for a month. During that time I pressure washed, and. Mean, seriously pressure washed the entire underside, removed as much loose rust from the chassis as possible and treated all I could see with dinitrol - first metal prep then black paint. I also used...

I have a Thule 3 bike rack, extended to 4. This is ok as the bikes we have are light enough. It's a tow bar mount which is very useful in terms of not needing to life the bikes too far and fuel economy vs roof mounted carriers. Car ferries are also cheaper due to lower headroom. I've not had it...

That's a great effort and you should be really pleased with the results too! As others have said, keep the methodical approach going right up to the point you start it. It might sound silly but have a list of things that need to be done before starting, and tick them off as you go. It's a...

Short update - home made special crank tool works brilliantly, crank bolt is now as tight as a tight thing in a very tight spot! 80Nm is easy, 85 degrees was a bit tough, the last 5 degrees was extreme effort, I may have done 4.5 degrees instead, but it won't shifting any more with my weight...

I'm in the market for a 27mm deep impact 1/2" drive socket - will go back and check when I have one. Thanks guys - that had crossed my mind but wasn't at the forefront when I tightened the bolt. Will loosen and redo with reapplied loctite.

It lives! Thank you to neilly, st v8 and jamesmartin for your suggestions, you helped loads, especially st v8s how-to-change-a-cam-belt. In the end I ground out the keyway so it was straighter - even with the the bare nose crank I could have done with a dremel and flexi-extension. As it was I...

Thanks for your thoughts - certainly a few things I hadn't come across. Chemical metal is very expensive, especially the good stuff! I'd also like to get the thing out again when the time comes to replace the timing belt again. Despite what I originally stated I'm contemplating cutting another...

I'm replacing the timing belt on my defender, due to a previous mechanic not tightening up the nose bolt adequately! The rear keyway for the timing is fine, no concerns. The front keyway which drives the ancilliaries is wide as the last keyway fell out in service and was rattling around...

I meant to add if anyone local has a crank pulley locking tool I could borrow for a day please, in exchange for some beer tokens, I'd be very grateful. Thanks

Rad removed, left the fan attached to the housing as I couldn't get enough friction to undo the LH thread. Turns out the pulley is pretty much worn away on the inside, the barest element of a keyway evident! Woodruff key is equally tired. The main news is the crank nose only has a groove around...

The crank bolt is still in place fortunately. I suspect the woodruff key is foobarred, maybe need a new pulley. Hopefully not a new crank!!! I took the fan belt off and the crank pulley spins freely! At least I can do the timing gear without resorting to hiring godzilla to undo the crank bolt -...

Just when I thought the big jobs were complete my landy decided otherwise! Battery light on, no PAS, returned carefully home (not too far fortunately) with coolant over windscreen - eek. I suspected a broken fan belt. On summary inspection found the crank pulley was in a different plane to the...

An EGR is designed to reduce NOx emissions first and foremost by introducing more CO2 into the combustion chamber, replacing some oxygen. In turn this reduces combustion temps. You'll be fine fitting the kit. When I built my cobra engine I removed the EGR for the same reasons, just make sure you...

Did you get new big end and main cap bolts? If so the faces may be serrated to lock in position. If not you can easily take the bolts out, clean them and put them in with loctite. I've never done Diesel engines, only petrol, but you might wish to consider new head bolts if your engine has had a...

You may have already covered this, but make sure the gaps in your piston rings are not aligned when you put them in. You may find you wear a line in your carefully machined bore otherwise. Also, when you put the pistons in, it might be a good idea to rotate the crank so each journal is at BDC to...