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LOL, I did exactly the same thing! even if you've undone the clamps on the pipes they only go back in their original locations, offer them up and they should be a 'natural' fit if you have to force them even slightly, thsy are in the wrong place!, double check by checking the firing order, the...

Changing the pump is pretty easy, though you will need a special tool to remove the pump and keep the sprocket held in place while you swap pumps, if you buy the complete kit it has all the bits needed, cam holder, chain tensioner pins, and the pump puller / sprocket holder. As the pump is a...

The camshaft is a piece of cake to get out, and the buckets should lift out nice and easy aswell. The chains are a much, much bigger job!, and IIRC the sump needs to come of to replace the bottom one. Remember, if you take the cam out, the timing is fixed by the tension of the cam sprocket...

Try driving along and lift your foot off the accererator pedal, if when doing this the MIL light comes on for a second or two, this won't happen all the time, maybe once or twice in 20 or so goes, but it indcates that it's possibly a fault within the injecton pump. I had the same fault with...

If it wasn't rattling before you let them work on it, and it was when the handed it back to, it's simple tell them to fix the problem THEY have created! don't pay them! a decent garage wouldn't hand it back like that anyhow.

If they have replaced the FIP and didn't use the proper tool to hold the drive sprocket in a fixed position while the old pump was removed and the new one fitted, it's possible the chain could have slackened off enough for the tensioner to have become dis-lodged, or the spring to have popped...

If it is the chain, there are infact two of them, one from the crank to the FIP, and then another from there up to the camshaft, both have oil pressure assisted spring tensioners. TBH, I would be very supprised if the tensioners were at fault, unless the engine has done a lot of short trips...

Have you ever seen the MIL light come on for a few seconds when coming off the throttle after a drive? when you re-apply the throttle, there is a 'dead' spot of lag for a second or two sometimes?

I'm not 100% sure but I had a P38 with black once, Raven it said on the paperwork.

Steam clean it off first, it will make tracking down the source a lot easier.

A full service of what? I take it you didn't mean your wife or girlfriend :->

One thing more needs to be said, you have just thrown the first gallon of unleaded over yourself and lit it.......and I'm sure the ranks of V8 owners will keep the fuel comming..............petrol of course!!!.

FFS, I'm not feckin stupid, all the above is correct, the point I'm trying to make is, it terms of power per pound spent, the filter and intercooler are uneconomical, the chip is the single best mod you will EVER find to quickly and cheaply increase the drivability of a 2.5 BMW Diesel powered...

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The diesel has it's own self tensioner (looks like a little shock absorber) which keeps the tension ''correct'', leaver it back to remove the old belt, when the new one is fitted simply let the tensioner go and it should move back and tension the belt, it's dampened though so don't expect it to...

The quickest, cheapest, simplest, method to some extra power is to fit a chip, at least with one fitted it's won't be quite so embarrassing pulling away from a T junction!! I've got a PSI Power box fitted to mine and it makes a good improvement for the price paid, quick and easy to fit, about...

On a diesel the sender is under the inlet manifold, bit of a pig to get at, but not impossible.

I'd get it upto normal temp and the feel the bottom of the radiator (you might well need to remove the fan shield to do it, if it's cold (much cooler than the top) it could be a fooked waterpump (common failure, did you replace it with a new one?) a fecked radiator, or more lightly a head /...

Mine sits just a tad under 12 o'clock....all the time once warm, regardless of what the car is doing, flat out or idling, I have a brand new radiator, waterpump, and thermostat, I've also flushed the block and made sure all the hoses are clean, the coolant is 50/50 mix, the car warms up from...

Check the earth between the engine and the bodywork, try a jump lead from a good clean point on the engine straight to the negative terminal on the battery.