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We're looking at getting a rear shelter for our defender. Nothing fancy. Saw the following on sneezebay. Any feedback on this?? It's for festival use and summer camping...

I'm having a similar issue with my 1988 110. Do you newer part numbers apply there too?

What would you suggest for refurbing the original? Light filling to remove big burs and then a run down with some scotch pad?

In the way jobs seem to get bigger, changing my drum brakes has grown into needing a new hub. Unfortunately I couldn't find the axle number anywhere so had to ring customer support. Based on the reg number they identified the part as RUB500240, but I was suspicious since I don't know if the axle...

I've changed two of the spiders. One was definitely the cause of the vibration, the other one the way out. Next question. At the end of the props on the spline end there is a hole, I guess to allow air in as you move up and down the spline to fit the prop. One of my props has a rubber bung plug...

I'm investigating vibration when travelling about 30mph. Typical suspect, UJs. There is a tiny bit of movement on move props, so just whipped out the rear to changes the spiders. On inspection the spline on the prop itself (don't know the proper name, but the bit that allows the prop to stretch...

Got blue. Is that ok?

Just like that...

Nope. Never. Only just found out what those recesses were after that little fountain appeared. From what I've read the technique is: Drain coolant. Stab a screwdriver through the middle and prise the cap out. Clean up mating face in the block with emery. Hylomar the mating faces Insert new...

About 25cm straight back from the failed plug. I've read of others using epoxy, but yet others saying it should only be considered a 'get you home' repair. Thoughts?

Yup. Hole in the core plug. Little hole at 11 o'clock to the bead of water.

My 300tdi seems to have sprung a coolant leek at the back of the engine, on the cylinder head block. Looks like the core plug as failed. See image below What's the best way to tackle this? Engine out or take the head off?

Just realised I posted my last comment on the wrong thread. I was talking about my transfer box rear drive flange. Just in case anyone gets worried/confused about the 162nm value above!

So I'm now putting it all back together and just put on the nut which holds the drive flange in place. It's meant to be torqued 162nm and despite my torque wrench going higher than that I could not put enough force on to reach this torque. So I did what I could and finished it off with my impact...

Subject says or all really. Trying to replace one of my prop shaft UJs. I think they've been in the a long time and slightly rust welded. Let some oxalic acid to do is thing. Cleaned. Plusgassed it for a while. Trapped one of the eyes to try and rotate the circlip in its grove, off came one of...

Thanks. After some tinkering I managed to get the drive flange out. What do you guys think to the state of seal landing area in the photo below? I'm guessing the grey line shouldn't be there, but it's not noticeably indented when I run my finger over the race.

My prop brake failed yesterday. Closer inspection revealed the rear oil seal has failed. It's a real mess in there! So I'm trying to remove the drive flange nut so I can get to the seal. Am I right in thinking the retaining nut is torqued up to 146->179 NM? I'm working on my driveway and...

What's the best method of inserting the new seal? Is it worth spending a few quid to buy a bearing race and using that in lue of the proper tool? Guessing the proper tool is expensive for a job not done very often.

While investigating the state of my rear brakes (drums) I noted it looked a bit wet inside and there was evidence of oil contamination on the pads. I whipped the hub off to have a look at the state of the seals and the stub axle. The seals look OK - not perished, no missing bits and still firm...

OEM it is then. Thanks. Next question: length. I don't know if my vehicle has been lifted in the past. It certainly rides quite high. The crown of the wheel arch cover sits 3 feet above the deck (unloaded) and running on 265/75/16 tyres. Now I'm not asking how to measure the suspension lift...