Search results

https://yrmit.co.uk/product-category/reconditioned-parts/front-axle/

Have a look on YRM for the bracket, I think they do galvanized ones. The part the steering rod attaches to is ANR2858 but these very often clean up well and can be reused.

No idea what you are hoping for, but £10-15k would be realistic but the Raptor will have devalued it considerably. The problem at the moment is that most of the people with that kind of money don't want an off roader. Also as much as it looks like an offroader, it's clearly too nice to...

Post a photo ;)

A failing fuel pump running on the low pressure side only will cause this. Not saying that is your issue, but worth checking.

Fuel temp and overboost faults are unlikely to cause cutting out. Have they done a fuel pressure test ? Although cutting out is quite often either a failing fuel pump relay or injectors seals normally.

"Eyeballing" full lift of the cam lobes is the only accurate way. The timing marks are not always 100% accurate

Done this many times on Discovery 2, however not on Defender. Looking at the electrical circuit diagrams is seems the Defender equivalent to the Yellow/Green wire on the D2 is Red/Black. Has anyone done this on Defender who can confirm this? Cheers.

This is what i have coming today. I actually ordered the two piece kit over a year ago and never got around to fitting it! https://www.pioneer4x4.com/product/braided-clutch-line-for-land-rover-defender-td5-1998-2007-rhd-clutch-master-to-slave-cylinder/

I did the same, got the two piece kit and then realised there was a one piece option! Luckily I hadn’t fitted the two piece kit

Very easy. That particular kit in the photo replaces the hardline from the master to the flexi hose, and the flexi hose. You will still have the small copper pipe. Pioneer 4x4 (where this kit comes from) also do a one-piece kit that goes from the master cylinder straight to the slave, which I...

Does anyone know why these manifolds crack where this one has, and if it's a common issue that can be avoided?

Not sure, best to speak to Forge they are apparently quite helpful. When I fitted mine I had no issues and we now sell them and no issues with any of those either.

yes that’s the same one we sell. Any will do though

Any good quality ATF Dexron 3 will be fine. People also use central hydraulic fluid which seems to be fine as well. The Land Rover part number is STC50519

Sounds like the pump could be on it's way, or low on fluid, or air in the system.

the aftermarket actuators don't seem to last long, even the £30 ones. the only decent ones I have seen come fitted to a Garrett turbo. The only aftermarket one that lasted was from Forge Motorsport which was a serviceable one.

All the seals are on the water pump which runs off the back of power steering pump. Unless the garage have disturbed the water pump it is probably just coincidence or the seals had already started to go and they didn't notice.

Shorter rod = higher boost. However if you set it too short you will get wastegate creep as you're actually adjusting the pre-load not the volume.

Plusgas is ideal. The best way to do it is remove the actuator arm fully from the turbo and then work on the wastegate pivot - it needs to be very loose - should be able to flick it up and down. A ceramic lube might work, I have never bothered with any lube as I always assumed it got so hot...