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Yes, I realise that but those 3 know the procedure all the way from capturing the code to sending a code to start the car. iirc the Thor and diesel are similar in that there's a single code held in the BECM and the chip in the EMS. GEMS is different in that it uses a rolling code that is...

Might be worth talking to Les at Classic Rides North Wales or maybe MrSporty or even Marty_uk, although probably have to try Marty's forum to get hold of him. I think all three of them know how to capture the remote code and how it is then stored and sent from the BECM.

Managed to crank the scrapper and bleed the pipes. Car started but no throttle response. That's slooby's FIP. I suspect he may have had the pump top off! Tried the nuts again. Failed so put some Quiksteel on there. Might hold them in place if it doesn't just break off.

Catching up ... slowly!

Check the aircon drains are clear. Coolant or water coming out? If coolant then either heater-matrix o-rings or possibly the heater-matrix itself has failed.

Have a look at the Landyzone International Rescue Map.

Surely if you turn the harness upside-down you get the mirror of it? Although I guess not everything is mirrored on the LHD?

Simple bluetooth OBD reader combined with Torque app should allow you to see all readings on a Thor engine. EDIT: iPhones don't like Bluetooth. Nanocom tends to interrogate each chip separately hence the weird grouping sometimes.

Semicolon is the European default. Makes sense really as they use commas instead of decimal points and that would mess up the number of columns. In Excel just highlight the column and then ALT, D, E. (Text to colunns on menu).

Only thing I know about private plates is that you cannot make a car look younger than it is, for example putting a 51 plate on a '95 N plate. You can of course put a '95 N plate on a 2001 car. I think transferring the plate is simple enough but might have a transaction charge.

Pressurise enough and it will blow coolant out the overflow which goes to the side and then underneath and then drips down the wing.

Whole f_ckin' day wasted today on those two bolts and no further forward. That and trying to bleed the high pressure pipes with 2 dodgy batteries that **** themselves as soon as you try to crank. Utterly wasted ****ing day. Those bolts have one chance left and then it is time to get violent.

Gentlemen (& ladies), We're looking at an automatic diesel P38A. Two of them actually. I'm trying to get the rad off my scrapper and onto what I am hoping might become a runner. The radiator on the scrapper looks original. It is held at the bottom by two bolts that go through the rad holder...

A split ring is always going to cause trouble sooner or later.

Yes, an incorrect signal rather than absence of signal might mess it up.

+1

On my P38A I cut the cooler pipes and used compression fittings and a new bit of oil hose. Others used a flaring tool on the stub of pipe remaining. Sump can probably be plugged with Quiksteel. You'd be amazed what it seals!

Bit odd. No issues with my car or my scrapper but Slooby's was messing with my head yesterday. I wish I could pun down what is different about it. Cannot be the FIP itself as I swapped them over. I'll see if it runs after I have finished swapping some other bits over and if needs be with use...

Worth talking to @Bemble ?

Started reassembling Slooby's former Rangie. Just cannot get the FIP adjustment right. Swapped for the FIP on my scrapper thinking maybe the Woodroffe key was worn but same sh1t. Get it bang on, rotate 360 and the b*st*rd has moved. I think maybe the keyway on the sprocket has some play or maybe...