Make sure in neutral as well as that sound seems more transmission.
No low down boost?
I would get it code read first and see if anything well out of range.
Mine over reads
Getting everything else right first
Manual, remapped, drive carefully and 30 should be doable.
I get low 20s with disconnected MAF*, auto, a **** commute.
*Currently sorting some...
The block needs modifying to take hydraulic fittings join D2 boys club, huge thread on there
No 1998 to 2007
£200 for a full hose conversion if DIY but pay a machine shop to machine block
Broken, or pushed into slide so going sideways.
To do that driver was a ****.
Systems have improved a lot over the years compare an early system with a modern 4 channel system.
They were relying on good axle articulation.
D2 can have very good axle articulation
It may be as simple as the drive from an auto is smoother than a manual, so less likely to provoke slip.
As to centre diff, mine is a standard...
They think they were Bearmach.
Try all of them first
D4 is good but wary of cranks
110 is best engine (2006 should be TD5) but crude
RR seems good value
Then I will have problems.
Rear half of the chassis is pretty scabby, been welded by the tank but in front, not great.
I can't see it lasting...
Nothing wrong with the air suspension.
My wife thinks it looks like it belongs in the new Pandora rose gold range.
The one which broke was fitted by a garage for MOT two years ago in December, I dropped it off there, got them to do a pre MOT then take it to...
OK now, done 2 or 3 years so far with them, passed 2 MOTs with hoses.
Was noisy driving to M&M, the bar was banging up and down even at low speeds and gentle corners.
Took it for a drive just before posting (beat...
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