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Happy days, a good result in the end.

I have only done one on a 2a before and it's fairly time consuming and as with most rusty things one thing leads to another. I would have a good poke around within a 1 foot radius first, especially if you have carpets and sound insulation. I have no idea on price, sorry.

What make was it and where did you buy it from?

If it turns out to be the UJs don't buy cheap ones. I hate doing them with a passion, got a propshaft instead last time. Another thing to check if you think it's from the transfer box is the output flange and bearing the prop bolts onto.

Needs replacing really or it will come back. Guess it depends if you are keeping or selling.

Fair enough, at least the whole thing is done.

I have seen them fitted either way and recommended either way. I doubt it would be the end of the world whichever way you choose.

I changed the flange when I did mine, it's cheap enough.

You didn't feel like giving it a go yourself?

Hopefully it will go better next time. Pointless buying cheap parts, even decent seals, Corteco, aren't expensive, quite often I buy two incase I **** it up or as a spare for next time.

Any help? You need to buy the top washers and nut separately.

How is the oil level, injector seals and copper washers maybe. Genuine ones only or so I'm told.

They come up on Ebay 2nd hand for not much sometimes. Basically they are just a box section with some holes and rivnuts in them.

Faulty reading by the crank sensor, affected by starter motor in my case, puts on the EML and gives you a fault code.

Not sure about butterflies but they collect snow rendering them useless.

According to Winchester and Ascrofts it should be 162Nm. Good quality bearings or bearings with no name? Wonder if over the years different torque settings were quoted? Just checked I used 162Nm on the tdi.

I would say our inner cable sits in about 5mm from the end of the plastic clip. Remember aftermarket stuff, in general, only ever sort of fits.

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