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Mine is a daily driver with 2" lift (rear ARB removed), 235/85 Grabbers and the usual underside protection. Perfectly capable of all I drive it at off piste, yet not too shabby for the commute. Not sure I'd want MTs for regular road work but the ATs didn't actually make all that much difference...

yep, same as the offside doors IIRC...

Li-ion Bike batteries are slowly gaining popularity due to better rating Vs size... They are hideously expensive though... IIRC £100 Vs £20 for a Lead Acid!

If you have a carport (or anything else that you could drive the car under), a guy I used to work with mounted a system of pulleys to the joists in his to raise/lower a roofbox when required - he also then stored the box up and out of the way! Not much use if you haven't though!

Try popping out the landrover badge from the plastic handle/number plate light enclosure and pushing the metal flap back towards the car... Now try opening the door. Decide to leave the badge off as a sign to other discovery drivers that you also need to strip the mechanism and free it off!

Mines always given a nice cloud of black smoke when booted, especially when cool - not cold - I respect the old girl too much for that!...

and do i spot rust on the boot door???

How much!!!!! I should expect the sills and boot floor to have been replaced with gold plate for that!

The other thing worth mentioning is that the glow plugs continue to heat up after the light goes out... if you listen carefully you'll hear the relay drop out about 15secs after the light. Wait until that point, then deck the throttle and turn the key and it should fire in one turn after a week...

Fit the switch but then fit a 10A fused link across the switch... Vehicle is powered until the scrotes try and start er up and then bang - dead as a dead thing!

The old conservation of energy bit stops all that lot working... same as all the so called perpetual motion machines on youtube... Simply put - 'yer can't get owt for nowt!'

so shirley you can then say that any fault current on the cable will be high enough to ensure that the fuse will blow before any damage occurs to the lower rated cable???

I know... Electric car with a windmill on the roof - charge as you go! Damn you Newton! :D

PFC = Prospective Fault Current... why would I be talking about Power Factor Correction on a DC Circuit???? :doh: The PFC for a ring main is hundreds of Amps so by your reckoning we need to fit the 70mm or above cable as it will see the fault current for a few milliseconds, in practice this is...

PFC has everything to do with it... otherwise we would be wiring ring mains in 70mm cable to deal with fault currents wouldn't we! Take a look at the wiring loom in your car and tell me how many 2.5mm and above cables you can find - other than main battery connections and starter motor! I ain't...

Until a live conductor comes adrift and hits the backbox which is earthed. At that point in time you have hundreds of amps flowing (through one side of the ring) which blows the fuse in <0.4s

Explain ring main circuits to me then... cable with a maximum current capacity of 27A before any derating factors, supplied by 32A breaker. This is perfectly acceptable due to the nature of PFC's If the cable were to short then there would be >100A flowing through the fuse which would cause it...

True, but each cable to the lamp would only be carrying 8.3A unless shorted to earth - in which case a 20A fuse would still blow before any damage occurred to the smaller cables. ;)

On the front innit???? Screw out to reduce lock... unscrew the nut on the other side of the flange slightly first - it holds the mud guard on and locks the stop bolt.

yes, but your relay earth is only the earth for the trigger if ya catch me drift - so only needs to be a tiddler not a 27A!