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I fitted a new master and slave, but I replaced the orginal piupe with a flexible one I got from

have a look here, copy and paste it into google it s for a trade cours in welding the old night school courses https://thetradescollegeuk.co.uk/courses/welding/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uK0BhC0ARIsANQtgGNN8YKRpAzgg3VLglWzIFzkxyEg7dpAspywUs1g_wSuBdhqPj2Lk3caAib8EALw_wcB

I just got under and redrilled the holes bigger

I have 157,000 miles on my odometer, and had only 2 advises on my last MOT on the 1 June 24, ball joint rubber cracking, so all good so far, the last week my brakes started squeaking, this started to get worse, so as I have never had a brake problem and have not replaced then since I got it in...

That were mine leaked, when I looked at the sunroof, I could literaly move the front to rear and sise to side as the seal between the sunroof mount and the roof had gone, so it was an headline out , remove both sunroof's, clean and reseal, inside nad out pblanking the holes were the drains are...

and this one Stallex Front Windscreen Wiper Motor Linkage Bars For Land Rover Discovery 2 98

I found this address on ebay, they post to france, new wiper assembly, £90 AZ Front Windscreen Window Wiper Motor + Linkage For Land Rover Discovery 1998-2

Wow, that’s just disintegrated , mine was just a bit of surface rust, on both sides, the seal, by the way the pelum is not suppose to seal on the windscreen, and the rubber is just to finish off and make it look good

Hi Stan, mine always hit the A pillar, for years, but one day I decided to have a look, why they hit the a pillar , so removed the bonnet and slid it forward a few inched removed the wiper arms, removed the lower pelum plastic cover to get to the wiper motor, to fine the complete assembly was...

maybe a D2 with a galv chassis, if it had a chassis then any other welding it may need, is probably already done

not totaly sure but is that panel not open at the bottom, if it is you can get a bumper in side to knoeck it out, plenty of companies who do it

I used self tappers and clips, as you dont need a rivit nut gun to do them

LOOKS LIKE YOUR THE MAN>>>

9 inch grinder with a cutting disc, just cut it off, then remove the stubs and the remains of the ball joints

I replaced the back end of mine a few years ago now the post does not seam to be avalable here now, any way here is a copy of the post for you to read, or follow this link https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/busy-few-days-100311/

do you have any other photo's, , is the other side of the hole in good condition, and whats the rest of the chassis like going to the rear as that where they normaly go, as I mwondeering can you take off the bady mount the using 3 mm plate weld in a repair section, or two

You will need a serious look at you chassis to see if a 1/2 chassis is long enough and confirm its solid and will take a weld at the cut/joining point

yes had the same problem, I thought is was my PC blocking it and have kept trying to open the webpages, I dont do FB, so lets hoe it a fixable problem, after all that what theses forum are all about fixing stuff

when I removed mine it came out by pushing up on the filler side the pulling down on the opposite side

What ever you get add extra security, steering wheel lock , fuel pump isolation switch ,