Brake Disks and Pads

I need to remew all my brake discs and pads (mot failure), do i need to take the hubs off to get the discs off like on a defender? There is no haynes and ive no idea how these go together. Any wires i need to be wary off and disconect or anything (ABS ect.)?

Cheers, Rich.

If it's a P38..remove the wheels followed by the pads and calipers, tie the calipers out of the way, remove the disc securing screw and then the disc. Easy job.
Remember to fit new pads with the new discs.

:behindsofa:

irishrover said:

if it's a p38..remove the wheels followed by the pads and calipers, tie the calipers out of the way, remove the disc securing screw and then the disc. Easy job.
Remember to fit new pads with the new discs.

:behindsofa:

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sweeeeeeetttt!!!!!!!

Irishrover said:

remove the disc securing screw

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That sounds like its gona be rusty and round off though.

while your calipers are off , its worth while cleaning the slider rods and lubricating with copperslip as they are prone to seizing leading to the brakes pulling to one side ,or not working as efficiently as they should. i have just replaced my discs and pads with ebc drilled and grooved discs and green stuff pads. my sliders were siezed and i had to heat the caliper slider tubes to free them off. the pad on the piston side was worn through, but on the slider side it was only about 30% worn, so hardly working at all !! they are **** hot now though.

Hi when I changed my pads I found this Brake Job Range Rover 4.0/4.6 very helpfull it also details disk change aswell

The disc securing screw shouldn't be a problem. If it comes out, fine, grease and refit, otherwise you could, in the following order,

give it a clout with an impact driver,
heat it and try the same or last resort
drill the head off and either drill the rest out and retap it or leave it in.

Once you refit a new disc and bolt the wheels on its all held up tight anyway. The screw really only holds it together while you are rebuilding it. Its the wheel studs that stop it rotating when you put the brakes on.

I did all the discs and pads on my 2001 Vogue 4.6 last summer. The most difficult aspect of the job was getting the rusted on discs off the hubs. I found cleaning the rust off the hub with emery cloth helped and then a crowbar to remove the disc. As I was replacing the discs I was not bothered about what happened to them during removal. Ditto about the calliper pins, check them and grease them while it’s apart. Also while I had it apart I painted the callipers with Dark Grey Hammerite and the disc shields with black Hammerite. This paint works great on these type of components and does not need primer and dries in 30 minutes.
Will be fitting stainless brake lines this year.

tufty said:

while your calipers are off , its worth while cleaning the slider rods and lubricating with copperslip as they are prone to seizing leading to the brakes pulling to one side ,or not working as efficiently as they should. i have just replaced my discs and pads with ebc drilled and grooved discs and green stuff pads. my sliders were siezed and i had to heat the caliper slider tubes to free them off. the pad on the piston side was worn through, but on the slider side it was only about 30% worn, so hardly working at all !! they are **** hot now though.

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yep my sliders are sezed, thats the reason the visible side of the disk is rusty, hence MOT failure. Can you inscrew somthing here, i want to get the gaiters off so i can see it, looks like perhaps i can unscrew the silder as the end of it is shaped as it to get aspanner on it.

Cheers, Rich.

woods767 said:

yep my sliders are sezed, thats the reason the visible side of the disk is rusty, hence MOT failure. Can you inscrew somthing here, i want to get the gaiters off so i can see it, looks like perhaps i can unscrew the silder as the end of it is shaped as it to get aspanner on it.

Cheers, Rich.

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Sorted that got them all greacey and lovely.

but new problem, the piston wont push in enough to get the new pads in. Seems like the piston is right in, i dont get it, it went in abit then stopped, and ive given it tons of abuse. Whats the best technique to this?

Check your brake fluid level, your master cyclinder/header tank might be full and stopping you from pushing the pistons fully back.

Get a good strong "G" Clamp and small pice of flat metal about 3mm + thick. Place the metal over the piston face an screw the clamp up tight. If this doesn't push the piston home then there is a good chance the piston is too rusty or corroded....fix is to replace the caliper or the piston. Depends what the condition of the caliper bore is in, if it's deeply scored, replace the caliper...can't take too many chances with brakes.

All done. Big improvemnt from the back end having the sliders working.

I got that piston in with a G clamp in the end, a G clamp with a 2 foot bar on its handle and the caliper bolted on the vehicle to hold it steady that is. :doh: And i had already phoned up paddocks in my frustration and made some creative acusations.

Did the rest at about half an hour a corner though.

Now all ive got to do to pass the MOT is stop the V8 engine making exhaust! :suspicious:

Medusa said:

Check your brake fluid level, your master cyclinder/header tank might be full and stopping you from pushing the pistons fully back.

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I had taken the lid off, so wasnt the problem. I also tryed pushing it in with the bleed value open just to see if there was a blockage or some brake line problem, but wouldent even go in then. now i have air in my brake lines. :doh:

So, are the pads in and calipers back on now? If so you just need to bleed the brakes. There are several trains of thought on the order in which to do it but generally do the furthest from the master cylinder first. Often having the engine running can help especially if there is a servo. Another tip I have found helps is to have the end of the car which is being bled face downhill - not steep though, just off the level and have the wheels chocked!!! It helps the fluid through rather than pumping it uphill. Once you have a pedal you can always re-do it on the level just to make sure there are no little air pockets left.

hippolover said:

Often having the engine running can help especially if there is a servo.

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Thanks, it was required, nothing was happening with the engine off. But lying under the exhaust pipe with it running.... uke:

You didn't do it in the garage did you, with the door shut?

You've probably pushed it slightly off centre. You shouldn't need to give it any abuse, just a firm hand!

Gently pop it outwards a bit using a very small dab on the foot brake pedal and then start again making sure you apply equal pressure across the face of the piston.

Forget it, didn't see page 2. Doh!

Just test drove it with the new spark plugs, filters and high performance leads (200mph and 500mpg garenteed!), it seems smoother running than befor with more torque, so hopfully whatever was throwing my emmisions out is sorted. Also the brakes have no slack in the pedal at all which is awsum.

Getting new discs and pads on mine soon. Not MOT failure only advice but they won't get any better. Any advice on best type/ supplier/cost - gratefully received.