Petrol boiling in the carburator (It seems)

Not sure, but my petrol carb is actually TOO HOT to even touch when sitting in traffic or not moving very fast. Its starts bucking and sputtering like I am getting vapor lock.

The manifold as you all know is attached to the intake (which I maintain was a bad idea) and the heat causes the intake to get blazing hot.

Can I do anything to quell this heat? In hot areas of the world (thailand in my case) can anything be done?

Thanks for your thoughts guys, you are always a well spring of insight.

you sure that the engine itself isnt over heating causing the excese heat in the manifold?

On some other leyland vehicles diffo mainfolds were available for diffo climates, I dont know if thats the case with the landy, someone might be along soon who knows.
Minis were also problematical with this, the petrol emulsified in traffic with exhaust heat, they sorted it by having 2 fuel pipes to the tank, one sending fuel to the carb, and the other an overflow returning to the tank, fuel constantly moving tends not to boil as its not hanging around the engine, there may have been versions of the landy fuel system like this.

That is an interesting thought Poppy...she gets very hot...but how hot is too hot...it never overheats in the extreme sense anyway. In traffic...who can put their hand on their radiator? have you tried touching your intake manifold after its been running an hour? Its almost as hot as the exhaust manifold. There has to be 2 or 3 square inches of contact area with red hot exhaust manifold and bolts...I guess I could put a thermal gauge on it. What is the top temp range for these in hot climates?

Had this problem on a vehicle (3 pin plug....) years ago the fuel pipe ran from one side of the engine to the other over the rocker cover, the fuel would evaporate above the rocker cover.

Re-routed the fuel line around the engine bay and fitted an SU electric fuel pump, never had the problem again.

What you could do if you can get some heat resistant plastic , is make your own insulator from the carb to the manifold . much like this one ( this is for a 90/110 ) Land Rover 90/110 Insulator Inlet Manifold-Carb ERC8460 on eBay (end time 12-Nov-09 20:48:33 GMT) .
that should cure your carb overheat problem .

You could also make up a heat shield/sink that extends under the carb .

.

Thanks Sypher,
I have one of those risers about 3/4 of an inch in hight and the temps I think are moving primarily through the two bolts and also the material itself. The exhaust manifold temps must be upwards of 900-1200 degrees. I am wondering if I could separate them some how and grind off what I dont want...is the manifold on the exhaust side closed or does it need a gasket? In other words, does the aluminum below the carb get direct exposure to the white hot exhaust gasses? If I am driving, this is not a problem...or even moving forward for that matter...its just when I am in stuck traffic that it occurs.

Thanks,
Mark

IHMS said:

does the aluminum below the carb get direct exposure to the white hot exhaust gasses ?

Click to expand...

If my memory is correct , yes it does .... if you cut off the base of you inlet manifold and black off the exhaust side of it you will still need to bolt the 2 together as the inlet manifold relies on the EM for mounting .

It is possible to do it and still have the EM as the mount but you would have to plate over EM hole thats left and space out the IM to the same height that it was befor so there is an air gap between the both .

Id find another IM + EM compleat and have a play first befor you butcher the one thats on there now !!! .

I know this isnt a landy thing but more for boy racers , is a bonnet vent would hetp to get rid of the excess heat .... ( just an idear )

just dug this out for you .

This site may be of some interest: Land Rover Performance Tuning - Power Plus - Land Rover cylinder heads, camshafts, SU Carb system, 2.8 engines - ACR - Automotive Component Remanufacturing Ltd

They sell 2 1/4 tuning parts including SU carb conversion kits, with new inlet manifolds which are not bolted together as in the original design, also tubular exhaust manifolds. Not cheap though. I think you should be able to solve your problem by perhaps rerouting the fuel pipe to the carb (keeping it away from the engine) and possibly making a heat shield to bolt onto the inlet manifold (these were standard fitment but most seem to dissapear)