Diesel Hot Starting Fault P38

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Yes all fixed ... but .....at a cost.
Required a new/replacement diesel distribution pump.

Rcon was £700 but I got a second hand one fitted for £500 cash.
The replacement has only done 80K so the guy recons it will be OK!!!

It still chuffs a little smoke on startup cold but then its a little rich at that point. NO CUT OUT!

That is a solenoid valve deep inside I believe ... I doubt it and suspect you can get it from the outside but I thought **** it . 183K mile the rest must be knackard. I had been driving it around for 3 years so it owed me nowt.

Still good cold start and about a 3-4 second crank after hot soak.

[email protected]

if you want to "chat"
 
Hiya, has anyone the bmw part number for the distribution pump..? i take it, it's not the one in the fuel tank.

Thanks, Sean...
 
hi, just joined as having the same problem but with a 2003 rangerover 3 l ,could it be the same problem - and if so where can i find this kit on ebay?? what name
Andy
 
2003 RR uses a different engine - not the 2.5 BMW so it would not be the same probem. If it has heater plugs, they would be my first suggestion.:)
 
this is my first diesel so not sure about about all , heaterplugs how would you test these ,
also i have heard maybe injectors -how would you check these- the dealer here dont want to help they sold me a new battery and same problem 3 days later now they say voltage drop?
 
Sorry - forget the heater plugs! I wasn't thinking properly as that would be if you had cold problems! To check voltage drop you need a digital voltmeter, but I would unbolt and clean/abrade any earths and main connections to the starter motor/chassis just to exclude that possibility, if volt drop is suspected. The problem may be air in the system, so perhaps it would be wise to check all fuel return lines. Not likely to be injectors as it would still start but misfire momentarily some cylinders only. Also worth checking for error codes as you could have a faulty engine temperature sensor, but you would need someone with diagnostics to read them. My apologies but I don't have any experience of 2003 models onwards. You can probably download the service manual from the web which would perhaps help? Perhaps there are other members with more knowledge of your model? :)
 
thanks for all the help,
problem now fixed -touch wood- problem was backflow on 2 injectors and also camshaft sensr was replaced , but no help from rr dealer , had to go to a diesel spec .1hr to find problem and car back after 4hrs.feels like christmas after 2months of problems
 
Wanted. Land rover mechanic to resolve my hot start problem on P38. Was told by one in LR yeovil where to get info but I dont have the confidence to do myself and Land Rover prices bit to high for me at moment. Wife wants me to sell it cos of problem and buy one with no probs but this one is in good nick and with a bit of TLC and basic reapair would be great. If you are one or know one would be grateful for assistance and obviously renumeration would be made to anyone carrying out works evenings/weekends will fit in to there schedule.
 
Hi guys just bought my 1st P38 2.5td and I can see its had the hot start relay fix fitted to it I just wanted to know does this make it think it's cold all the time or just on start up hence the relay?? does any1 know why this works and does it do any harm its still under a garage warranty so I would like to know before it runs out many thanks Griffo
 
The kits off e-bay fool the engine into thinking it's cold for about 30 seconds. This activates the glow plug relay and the lift pump.
This sort of primes the pump so it starts pretty much straight away.
Usually a sign of a worn injector pump but it will function fine. I've put over 10k miles since fitting a kit to my M51.

When warm the glow plug relay and lift pump don't function on turning the ignition on so it can take an age to prime the pump. The glow plug side of the mod is irrelevant really, you just want the fuel in there to enable it to start.
 
Fuel is always there when you turn the key unless you have leaks in the system allowing air in. The hot start fix fools the engine ECU into thinking the engine is cold, richening the mixture and turning on the glowplugs. BMW in their wisdom did not program mixture enrichment on hot starting and when the injector pump gets a bit tired you have a problem.
Beware, some hot start fixes do not have a timer and cause a permanant rich mixture which is not good.
 
Last edited:
Fuel is always there when you turn the key unless you have leaks in the system allowing air in. The hot start fix fools the engine ECU into thinking the engine is cold, richening the mixture and turning on the glowplugs. BMW in their wisdom did not program mixture enrichment on hot starting and when the injector pump gets a bit tired you have a problem.
Beware, some hot start fixes do not have a timer and cause a permanant rich mixture which is not good.
Cheers for that how will I know if mine has a timer it's got a small relay and some badly fitted wires I was going to tidy them up on the weekend
 
Hi everyone sorry not been on lately here is the post especially for tiff,this only takes about 30 mins to do,the parts you will need is a 5 pin relay,locally sourced or landrover sell them part no is YWB10032L cost of £6.07 +vat you will need a resistor 2k ohm value locally sourced.
tools you will need spanner to take off battery terminal,philips screwdriver soldering iron an solder some insulating tape.
first of all disconect battery -ve terminal,unsrcew top of ecm cover,remove ecm and sit on top battery area on a cover obviously no sparks here.look into the loom of the ecm you are looking for a grey/blue trace wire this is the temp sender wire,cut this wire 3 inches back from ecm connector so you have enough room to join to the relay to terminal 30,before you join this wire the resistor needs to be bent in a horse shoe shape as the resistor goes between terminal 30 and terminal 87a,so to recap cut blue/grey wire and 1 end of resistor into crimping terminal and crimp, the other end of the resistor goes into the other cut side of the blue /grey wire and crimp with resistor connect to terminal 87a,terminal 85 goes to earth i normally cut into the collecting of black wires in the ecm box with plastic covered ends solder it to 1 of these here.the last connection is from the glow plug relay which is situated next to the ecm in the box,you need to join a wire to the red/white wire at the the glow plug relay this then joins onto terminal 86 of the relay,this is now all done wrap tape all round the relay and just place inside with the ecm and glow plug relay,hope my instructions are clear if not please email or post a message im going to look in my shed tomorow to see if i can find some resistors will let you know if i find any.
Hi guys great site but I am a little confused.com !!! what is the ecm? I have just bought a p38 r reg 113k very very nice condition which has had this fix but I think its allways runing cold mpg is down to 19mpg driving it very senisbly my 300tdi used to give me 30mpg flat out raging it every where how can I check if it is allwalys runing cols please many thanks Griffo
 
Has anyone got the wireing details for this mod as all the links seem dead
also do you know if the wires are the same on the omega with this engine thanks john
 
Hi guys great site but I am a little confused.com !!! what is the ecm? I have just bought a p38 r reg 113k very very nice condition which has had this fix but I think its allways runing cold mpg is down to 19mpg driving it very senisbly my 300tdi used to give me 30mpg flat out raging it every where how can I check if it is allwalys runing cols please many thanks Griffo


ECM. Engine control module. Mpg is about right around town.
 
Back
Top