freelander TD4 low power

This is pretty much what they have said but still nothing comeing up on the computer , gets to be an expensive guessing game . Keep your thinking cap on , with you thats four scratching your heads , between you I'm sure it will be cracked , or I'll be broke !

thanks a lot , Paul.

Don't overlook delamination (inward) of an intercooler hose. Had this happen, same symptoms. Once you see the black goo inside the intercooler piping system you will be keen to blank-off the EGR. The goo can also block-up the intercooler itself. Also, with the delamination blockage of the intercooler, you get heaps of smoke out the exhaust. With a burst intercooler hose you just have no power.

Don't overlook delamination (inward) of an intercooler hose. Had this happen, same symptoms. Once you see the black goo inside the intercooler piping system you will be keen to blank-off the EGR. The goo can also block-up the intercooler itself. Also, with the delamination blockage of the intercooler, you get heaps of smoke out the exhaust. With a burst intercooler hose you just have no power.

Thanks Stephen but had that hose replaced in the summer , as you say black smoke and no power . All hoses and pipes checked twice by two different people just to make sure nothing was missed .

atvb Paul.

Have you tried taking a drive with your MAF sensor disconnected? Might be worth a shot to see if there is any improvement.:scratching_chin:

Yes I have driven it without the MAF connected and it's a different car , as it should be at low end and seems smoother as well , as soon as it's connected back up back to sqare one and flat as a pancake . It has a brand new genuine landrover MAF on ( the second one ) and is still the same as when I took it into the garage .

atvb Paul.

Shropshire Hippo said:

Yes I have driven it without the MAF connected and it's a different car , as it should be at low end and seems smoother as well , as soon as it's connected back up back to sqare one and flat as a pancake . It has a brand new genuine landrover MAF on ( the second one ) and is still the same as when I took it into the garage .

atvb Paul.

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Sounds like a fault either with the ECU or the wiring between ECU and the MAF then.

It might be worth talking to your main stealer and seeing if they know of a common fault. Pretend you wanna book it in so they think they will be seeing your money. They will hopefully give you the info and then tell em the dates given are no good you'll call back in to book it after xmas.

Yes , might be worth a try . My local garage are on good terms with a chap from shukers , they were going to speak to him today I'll let you know if they find anything out . A chap on another site with a rover 75 has the same trouble so was hopeing he would get his sorted and post his findings

Right ! new symptoms today , joined the loss of power at 70 club , with power falling right back to 55mph . Could it be the fuel filter ? as far as I know it's not been changed in the last 30,000 miles and who knows before that .

atvb Paul .

p.s. better than the telly this , just costs a f***ing fortune !

Shropshire Hippo said:

Right ! new symptoms today , joined the loss of power at 70 club , with power falling right back to 55mph . Could it be the fuel filter ? as far as I know it's not been changed in the last 30,000 miles and who knows before that .

atvb Paul .

p.s. better than the telly this , just costs a f***ing fortune !

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With any poor performance issues the fuel filters should be eliminated early on. Also some peeps have found loads of crap at the pick up in the tank.

reet, exactly how mine was....

peiberg maff from euro car parts (30quid*) and a mafam box from roveron (60quidish).

new fuel filter (10quid), crankcase breather (16quid) and a air filter (25quid).

sorted!!


*= ex-staff disco

Right , an update . Been in today and had a new fuel filter (turns out never had one in 90,000 miles !) rang tonight and was told to fetch it , sorted . Took it for a spin and fair doos it was flying , 0 - 85 in no time YEEEEEEEH! then after a couple of short runs back to loosing power at 70 ! took it back and they couldn't believe it , must be the fuel pump it goes on . Keep you posted .

atvb Paul.

Hi all , local garage getting no where so rang Mcdonald Landrover , Oswestry this afternoon and they seemed more confident in sorting it out . Any of you guy's used them ? any good .

atvb Paul.

aup m8, got exact same problem at the moment on mine. its a 52 plate td4. loss of power on low revs with it riting itself when warm. had a diagnostic done at landrover and told me fuel pump was on way out. said may be maf sensor but he had changed them before with no effect to car. said my fuel pressure was 200 something or other and should be 600 +. the pump that has gone on mine is part number wfx000181 and costs around £120 for a brit part or around £155 for genuine. mine is a 52 and its the fuel pump behind the rear wheel arch not the in tank one so sounds like you got same problem. hope this helps a bit. i had filter changed first aswell cost £40 fitted at my mates garage and seemed ok aswell untill i got home. deffinately pump like mine i reckon.

if your filter is same as mine one on ebay genuine at the moment for £67 and rising. i emailed the guy said he would sell for £65 + postage but comes with no warrenty. didnt wanna risk it as im skint enough. part on ebay genuine though so saving around £90.
LANDROVER FREELANDER TD4 FUEL PUMP on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 02-Feb-09 18:32:21 GMT)


td4 freelander fuel pump on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 30-Jan-09 16:42:04 GMT)

Hi mate , they deffo thought it was the fuel pump too ! fitted one today and no different at all My bill is going to be off the scale for trial and error !

Sorry , that was a ****ty reply , thanks for taking the time to reply . Just a bit ****ed off now as it's getting beyond a joke . Two months on and getting no where , does anyone know how these fu**ing things work ?

CHRIST! I REALLY FEEL FOR YOU .........what a story
you could try Landranger in Shrewsbury on Harlescott Lane by STADCO
they might be able to shed some light on it
01743 466335

Shropshire Hippo said:

Yes I have driven it without the MAF connected and it's a different car , as it should be at low end and seems smoother as well , as soon as it's connected back up back to sqare one and flat as a pancake . It has a brand new genuine landrover MAF on ( the second one ) and is still the same as when I took it into the garage .

atvb Paul.

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Paul,

Taking you back to this post above. Did you try this at high speed? At the end of the day the operation is simple. The more fuel you shovel in, the more power it develops. If the power is there without the MAF connected then the fuel system must be able to deliver the fuel. Pumps and filters are therefore out of the equation.

This means that something in the engine management system is telling the ECU to throttle back on the injection windows. What would do this? Well you've elliminated the MAF so its got to be some other sensor or its supporting components.

I own an L series so I'm not familiar with the TD4 lump but I do have the circuits for the engine management for both. A look through these for the TD4 and I can see several components that under certain failure modes will result in a loss of output.

On the turbo there is a boost control pressure sensor and a boost pressure sensor. If these are malfunctioning so to indicate to the ECU that the boost pressure is lower than it actually is then the ECU will reduce the fuel quantity as it doesn't think there is enough charge for the full works. If the sensors are reading a 'believable' value then the ECU may not raise a fault. It depends on how well the software is written. Obviously the trick is to get the garage to swap with a known good one. I don't see why you should have to buy that if the original is not faulty.

This next idea is a guess as I don't know the engine design but pressure sensors need a reference pressure. This is sometimes taken from the vacuum pump for the brake servo. Are these air lines (if at all present) split, blocked, collapsed etc. Worth a check.

There is a Camshaft pressure sensor. (What the hell does that do?) Does this engine have variable timing? I don't suspect so. This sensor must do something. Subsitute for a good one.

Finally, and this is a stupid but obvious one. Is the throttle position sensor working correctly and allowing the pedal to signal a high throttle demand? Put a brick under the throttle pedal and it doesn't go very fast.

A few thoughts to try and help you along.

Good luck,

Dave

hi again bud. at least your garage know where the fuel pump is located on yours. i went to lrc in congleton staffs and they gave me the part number for a fuel pump located under the rear wheel arch from my diagnostic check they said this was right. i went away and did some checking and from my vin number it is located under the bonnet on the battery side next to filter so good job i didnt shell out any cash for the wrong pump. i bet they wouldnt have taken responsibility for the **** up they caused. fortunately i'm n o mechanic but had a little check first as i was sceptical. hope i don't have the same problems as your having and the pump sorts it. yours sounds a nightmare. to be honest don't know what yours is like but only had mine 3 years and already depreciated around £7000 to about £3300 trade so reluctant to go mad on cash. might just burn the bastard if continues...lol.

lrc by the way are a landrover dealer so even worse.