ABS, Traction Control & Hill Descent Warning Lights

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batasquad

New Member
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25
Hi all, Right let the story begin...

The brakes were squeaking on my 5 Door, XEI, 2000 model GayLander, so i took off the back wheels and removed the rear hubs and put copper slip on the metal parts of the brakes that rub (Not the pads before you ask). It worked fine, no problems, no warning lights (no Squeaking...yay) i took it to work this morning, it was parked on it's own no cars either side, and when i came to drive off, the ABS, TC & Hill Descent warning lights wont go off, i can't put my Hill Decent on and i have no idea why it is messing me about.

I rang a Land Rover mechanic and he said that the most common cause is the brake lights. but they are working fine. Any other suggestions of what it may be? i may aswell try the easy things before i get charged £50 by Land Rover to have it diagnosed

Many Many Thanks In Advance

Rob
 
Shortly after i composed this message i looked for through all the posts, and people talk about the lights that come on i.e. 2 may come on, followed by the third, one my go of then come back on again. with mine, they all come on and stay on, the green hill descent light comes on at start up and goes off when it should. I think i will take off the front wheels and perhaps clean the sensors that i have read about and see if that works. I will keep you posted
 
if the problem occured just after working on the brakes I'd guess you've knocked one of the sensors, take em out, clean em and then refit, problem should rectify when you drive away.
 
if the problem occured just after working on the brakes I'd guess you've knocked one of the sensors, take em out, clean em and then refit, problem should rectify when you drive away.

are there sensors on the rear wheels? if there are that Land Rover guy was a tosser
 
Yup, front and rear wheels have sensors fitted. I think the rear sensor is behind the hub at the 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock postion. Just a push fit so it should just pull out, give it a clean then push it back in. If you can locate the connection (not sure where it is on the rear of the top of my head but you could just follow the cable back) and you have a multimeter the resistance of the sensor should be 1 - 1.5 MOhms, worth a check if cleaning doesn't work to prove the sensor is OK.
 
Yup, front and rear wheels have sensors fitted. I think the rear sensor is behind the hub at the 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock postion. Just a push fit so it should just pull out, give it a clean then push it back in. If you can locate the connection (not sure where it is on the rear of the top of my head but you could just follow the cable back) and you have a multimeter the resistance of the sensor should be 1 - 1.5 MOhms, worth a check if cleaning doesn't work to prove the sensor is OK.

i cant find any bloody sensors that i would have go dirty when i was fixing the brakes, anyone know what they look like? a picture would be great
 
what a crock of crap, i have located the sensors on the wheel hub, they wont even come out of their hole, much less allow dirt in there from when i was messing with the brakes. I dont know what it could be, i think i may need to take it to Land Rover for them to test it on their machine.
 
dirt doesn't get in from the top, it gets onto the underside on the sensor via the air gap between it and the phonic wheel on the hub. You could try a twice daily soak with WD40 for a few days then try and give them a good strong twist when your pulling them out.
 
Further to the last post, I was replacing the IRD on mine and that affected one of the front sensors and gave the same symptoms, pulled it out, cleaned it and it worked perfect after that.
 
hi all,
batasquad problem sounds just like mine except the brakes have not been messed with.
i tried to look at the sensors and mine too were solid. kept squirting for a week twice a day with no joy.

i did ask how to get them out as a simple pull just aint mine......
i have already tried replacing the brake switch too and looking under the gearstick gator for loose wires.
does any one have this problem too???
or even better fixed it without silly garage repairs/diagnostic bills??

mark
 
i read a previos post that someone listed about checking the sensors to see if they are still working, i have disconnected al the wires and checked the Ohm level of them all, apparently they are meant to be between 1000 - 1500 and as far as i can see they are all working fine, i think i may very well need to take it to the garae to get it checked out on the machine, luckily my dad has a mate with a land rover computer thingy, so i'll take it to him.
 
You can still get a fault appearing from the sensors if they are OK (yours are ok if you got thoses readings). The resistance test shows that the sensors are in good working order but if they have slipped (air gap incorrect) or dirty (road dirt or corrsion near the phonic wheel) they will appear faulty as they don't pick up a signal from the hub when the wheel spins. If you use a fault reader and it shows up as a sensor yours will not need replacing, just reseating or cleaning.
 
george99,
how do the sensors come out?
looked at mine and they looked solid,squirted for aweek in wd with no difference......

can you use grips/took to remove them?

would br great if you could let me know

thanks
 
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