What did you do with your Range Rover today

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That is true. On the diesel, the immobiliser is actually a mobiliser, the BECM sending a code the the EDC to allow starting. It's a fixed code and if the BECM loses the code, the only way to recover is via diagnostics, you read the EDC code and write it back to the BECM. That situation can happen what ever the Immobiliser and EKA are set to in the BECM
This code can also be lost or change if you go and change the language of the cluster with a universal tester, ask me how i know :D

Anyway got the ac working, ended being broken wire going to the compressor.
I thought the clutch was engaging since the revs dipped when switching the ac on/off.

I might have a engine pulled from a junkyard in my p38 since most of the wires on the engine have been cut and spliced or extended with similar blue wiring...
 
Car refused to crank over the other morning until I did a percussive realignment on the starter motor.....

New starter fitted, got to admit I'm impressed at how much a PITA of a job it was. But the new starter is much smaller and the car now starts in less than 1/2 second, much faster than the old slightly tired one.
 
Car refused to crank over the other morning until I did a percussive realignment on the starter motor.....

New starter fitted, got to admit I'm impressed at how much a PITA of a job it was. But the new starter is much smaller and the car now starts in less than 1/2 second, much faster than the old slightly tired one.
Don't give other parts to replace!!!! 😉

Just finished to put the cubby box in, looks good with the matching front seats, well it will once I removed all the bits and pieces on the seats! Not bad for a lunch break. Dashboard removal next, after I'm done with my day job later today.
 
Cubby box is in, tightenedbthe thread rivets a little bit better, now you can lift the car on the box! Looks nice, if you ask me!
 

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I may have accidentally added flappy paddles to the TD6.

Bit time consuming but not difficult and is definitely a nice addition. Its one thing I missed compared to my other car. Occasionally having a semi manual control over the box is a good thing, like when it occasionally can't decide which gear it should be in and kick down is definitely a bit laggy on these boxes.
 
I may have accidentally added flappy paddles to the TD6.

Bit time consuming but not difficult and is definitely a nice addition. Its one thing I missed compared to my other car. Occasionally having a semi manual control over the box is a good thing, like when it occasionally can't decide which gear it should be in and kick down is definitely a bit laggy on these boxes.
I just use the gear lever on the P38 like it's a manual
 
I may have accidentally added flappy paddles to the TD6.

Bit time consuming but not difficult and is definitely a nice addition. Its one thing I missed compared to my other car. Occasionally having a semi manual control over the box is a good thing, like when it occasionally can't decide which gear it should be in and kick down is definitely a bit laggy on these boxes.
Did it on my TD 6, swopped them on to l322 TD v8 I have now. Where did you get them from out of interest?
 
Front one's are bonded to the bar need to be cut off then enery the bar after to get all the bits off.
That sounds a pain in the bottom!! How can you be sure they are dead? I've got a fair rattle on the left front, but only over big potholes. By ear doesn't seem to be coming from the wheel, but higher up. Replaced the tie rod and the control arm, plus the ball joint
 
What did you have done?
Ummmm........emmmmmm, .......... ummmmm Stuff?
Not got the receipt beside me 🤣
Injectors checked, subwoofer changed over, emmmm............wheels balanced, radiator/coolant checked because of 'hot smell', ummmmm..... oh yeah cd changer changed for refurbed unit, and a couple of other things that I can't remember right now 😁
 
That sounds a pain in the bottom!! How can you be sure they are dead? I've got a fair rattle on the left front, but only over big potholes. By ear doesn't seem to be coming from the wheel, but higher up. Replaced the tie rod and the control arm, plus the ball joint
I could see movement in the bush clamp on mine, you sure it's not the anti roll bar link arms ?
 
Got them from LRParts as it seemed the easiest option as no way of reprogramming the GM box to do command shift
Right, never looked on there didn't know they did them. I first saw a mod on fullfatrr which was a bit complicated and still ment moving lever to sport for them to work then Zeebadee (think it was)on there mentioned kit that Damien Walker had developed so bought one from them and now wouldn't be without them, use them nearly every time go out, think there are few on here that have now fitted them.
 
I could see movement in the bush clamp on mine, you sure it's not the anti roll bar link arms ?
I took one end off and both ball joints felt good. That's what i thought it sounded like to be honest. I've got a new one.. maybe i should swap it anyways.. but the one that's on is only months old
 
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I took one end off and both ball joints felt good. That's what i thought it sounded like to be honest. I've got a new one.. maybe i should swap it anyways.. but the one that's on is only months old
Have you checked the roll bar bushes as well?
A simple test to look for other issues is to brake sharply at a low speed and wait for a "thunk" from the front end.
This usually points towards the lower suspension arm bushes over compressing and allowing the alu arm to come to an abrupt stop without the bush cushioning it.
Blah blah blah... 😝
 
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