Series 2a Wiring

It mentions a sleeve on the car builder website as the hole in middle of stalk is bigger diameter than steering column

border said:

Thats Great Mate was just thinking about that today.
Steve 2286w came up today to give me a hand, Thanks very Much Steve was loveley to meet you Mate.
Anyway we managed to get heater switch, wiper switch panel light and fuel gauge working so pleased with that. could only use the Ignition fuse box to 2 on barrel , there was no power on Aux box for some reason on to switch 5 on barrel but I tried it on switch 4 before leaving tonight and there is power from there, Can I use 4 instead ?

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No probs was flagging a bit by end, I had a few observations I’ll post later when I’ve woke up

Sorry

steve2286w said:

It mentions a sleeve on the car builder website as the hole in middle of stalk is bigger diameter than steering column

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Yes Sorry I thought he meant the flasher unit, just wondering if this one is right part 502096 - Flasher unit old style - Find Land Rover parts at LR Workshop

T he column is a smaller diameter than the clamp on the column stick I used a https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35112142...b02820ffc64f938b6070181a245a17&pid=100675&rk% and an off cut of waste pipe split and fitted on the lower part of the steering column .then used longer screws with a nut to clamp the two haves of the column switch to determine the new length of screw required yes that the flasher I personally would go for the electronic unit rather than the old style bi-metal strip and heater flasher

mystery said:

View attachment 270685 T he column is a smaller diameter than the clamp on the column stick I used a https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351121422504?var=621558472704&_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=8fb02820ffc64f938b6070181a245a17&pid=100675&rk% and an off cut of waste pipe split and fitted on the lower part of the steering column .then used longer screws with a nut to clamp the two haves of the column switch to determine the new length of screw required yes that the flasher I personally would go for the electronic unit rather than the old style bi-metal strip and heater flasher

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Thanks Again, never tried it on yet, think I have some of that silicone hose. will give it a try.
Just ben up and tried the aux box on number 4 and it works fine, not sure why it wouldn't work from 5.
Just remembered to run wire from coil to bottom of Ignition fuse box, do I still ned the other one from coil to number 2 on ignition ?

No to another wire to coil ,strange that the ignition switch 128SA is not four position, what wire size did you use to feed the aux fuse box been looking at spec of ignition switch and it max load is 15amps at 12 volt
as you could possibly draw more would suggest a relay to protect the ignition switch ,which would basically mean taking a wire of terminal 4 to 86 on a relay the other side 85 being earth.
a wire of terminal 1 (10mm cable large tab connector) off the ignition switch to relay terminal 30 and the cable feeding the Aux fuse box of terminal 87 of the relay https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/maxi-high-power-make-break-relay-12v-70a.html the relay would and https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/high-current-maxi-relay-socket-with-terminals.html the relay could be mounted behind the dash on the rear of the bulkhead

mystery said:

No to another wire to coil ,strange that the ignition switch 128SA is not four position, what wire size did you use to feed the aux fuse box been looking at spec of ignition switch and it max load is 15amps at 12 volt
as you could possibly draw more would suggest a relay to protect the ignition switch ,which would basically mean taking a wire of terminal 4 to 86 on a relay the other side 85 being earth.
a wire of terminal 1 (10mm cable large tab connector) off the ignition switch to relay terminal 30 and the cable feeding the Aux fuse box of terminal 87 of the relay https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/maxi-high-power-make-break-relay-12v-70a.html the relay wouldView attachment 270741 and https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/high-current-maxi-relay-socket-with-terminals.html the relay could be mounted behind the dash on the rear of the bulkhead

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Not sure what size wire but it is thick brown,
At the moment I have On IGN box, wiper, heater and gauges,still need the lamps connecting together though
and On AUX box I have one going to main light switch connected to panel light.
Fuel gauge seems to be reading correct, but the Temp Gauge travels all the way up to Red after about 5 minuets , engine does get very hot but dont think its overheating or anything , not sure if gauge is working properly.
So would it be best to put one of these Relays is in can order one today,

I would for peace of mind its mainly to cover when the headlights are on rear fogs and front fog and you flash someone the load on the ignition switch would exceed it's rating and either melt
the switch or softens the annealing of the contact and they no longer operate correctly .
I put my glow plugs on a relay mine being a diesel which is mounted behind gauge panel so you could do the same with your relay have you sorted out where all the cable terminate

mystery said:

I would for peace of mind its mainly to cover when the headlights are on rear fogs and front fog and you flash someone the load on the ignition switch would exceed it's rating and either melt
the switch or softens the annealing of the contact and they no longer operate correctly .
I put my glow plugs on a relay mine being a diesel which is mounted behind gauge panel so you could do the same with your relay have you sorted out where all the cable terminate View attachment 270743 View attachment 270744 View attachment 270745

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Thanks for pics, looks great makes embarased to show pics of mine now after seeing yours
OK Will order one , my local landy shop may have one in will try them first.
Have not got round to stalk yet still trying to finish these last few wires in dash. Think ive got the water temp sender sorted now , swapped a couple of wires round and and now It only goes up just under half way after running engine for a good 10 minuets, will try again later.


These are wires I have left on back of clocks in pic.
2 going in to Oil Pressure. 1 White / Yellow and 1 White
1 going in to Main Beam. Blue/White
2 going in to Cold Start 1 White/ Blue and 1 White

White/yellow ( W/Y) to oil pressure sender on filter house white ignition feed term 2 ignition switch is the nearest point along with white on cold start the white/ blue (WU) to choke thermostat rear of engine I believe
blue/white (UW) should join with head light main beam wiring possibly still to be routed to dash and checked .
where is the water temp sensor fitted on your engine looking to wire one on my engine have notice that the warning lamp I assumed was indicators is in fact oil pressure ,so you have oil pressure light oil temperature light but no indicator warning light ? so you may have to fit one

mystery said:

View attachment 270768 White/yellow ( W/Y) to oil pressure sender on filter house white ignition feed term 2 ignition switch is the nearest point along with white on cold start the white/ blue (WU) to choke thermostat rear of engine I believe
blue/white (UW) should join with head light main beam wiring possibly still to be routed to dash and checked .
where is the water temp sensor fitted on your engine looking to wire one on my engine have notice that the warning lamp I assumed was indicators is in fact oil pressure ,so you have oil pressure light oil temperature light but no indicator warning light ? so you may have to fit one

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Thanks Again.
Have put W/Y to oil switch on filter housing, and white with white cold start to terminal 2. not sure where the choke thermostat is on mine for the white/blue, dont know what it looks like.
will deal with the blue / white when I start lights ect.
The oil pressure and oil temperature was going to be my next question, not sure why I have both of those, Could I use one as Indicator warning light ? or should I fit one and where would I fit it ?
My fuel and water temp gauges are playing up again must have done something wrong with wires, bloody nightmare.

The water temp sensor was a nightmare to find on my engine, no one knew where it was, had it up on other forum and found it here on pic, then it was another nightmare to find the right reducer to fit threads but got lucky and found one local, have more info if you ned it.

I would fit a separate indicator as not confuse anyone who takes on the vehicle after you and I are long gone with it marked oil temp would alarm them
a have marked the position on the previous drawing between the inspection socket and heater switch

mystery said:

I would fit a separate indicator as not confuse anyone who takes on the vehicle after you and I are long gone with it marked oil temp would alarm them
a have marked the position on the previous drawing between the inspection socket and heater switch

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Yes see it I do have a couple of decent spares that I can fit.
Still cant find the choke thermostat to run the white /blue to
Went to local shop today and they only have one of these in, 40A took pic to show you first if it is no good will just order one of the others you linked.
Still not sure about water and fuel gauges will take pic of how I have them wired.

that relays fine .I know the series 1 engine had a otter temp sensor on the back of the engine it may be that the series 2 used just the switch on the cable to tell you the choke was engaged

mystery said:

that relays fine .I know the series 1 engine had a otter temp sensor on the back of the engine it may be that the series 2 used just the switch on the cable to tell you the choke was engaged

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Think I know what you mean now, I have a couple of those otter things which I kept off old engines, do I really need it ?
Pic of how I have gauges wired, they just please themselves if they go up or down or not, not sure what I have done wrong, got about 15 litres in tank but the gauge sometimes stops 3 quarter full sometimes half full and sometimes 1 quarter full.
Temp gauge either goes right to top or sits just under half way,
please excuse my shoddy work but once everything is connected right it will be all tidied up and insulated.
Blue wire goes to fuse box.
Green/Black on left goes to water temp sender.
Green/Black on right goes to Fuel Tank Sender.

you do not require the otter switch but do need a choke cable with s switch to operate the choke warning light . in my diagram do you have the switch bracket and switch attached to your choke cable
The speedo unit fitted to your series is it from a series 2 or a series 3 as the later had a voltage stabiliser to feed the gauges this drops the voltage to a stable 10volts

mystery said:

you do not require the otter switch but do need a choke cable with s switch to operate the choke warning light . in my diagram do you have the switch bracket and switch attached to your choke cable
The speedo unit fitted to your series is it from a series 2 or a series 3 as the later had a voltage stabiliser to feed the gauges this drops the voltage to a stable 10volts

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Speedo unit is what was already there from series 2 . as was Choke cable. I have replaced cable as it was ready to fit to carb, but it did not have a switch or bracket on it as in diagram.

Have you got a green or orange lens to fit the choke warning light unit ,you then could do -away with the choke warning and use it as indicator warning.
as to the gauges make sure you have a good clean earth on the tank and engine.
Look at you picture the fuel gauge wiring is incorrect

mystery said:

View attachment 270809 Have you got a green or orange lens to fit the choke warning light unit ,you then could do -away with the choke warning and use it as indicator warning.
as to the gauges make sure you have a good clean earth on the tank and engine.
Look at you picture the fuel gauge wiring is incorrect

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Think I have wire's correct now. wter on left. On my pic fuel gauge is on right and Fuel gauge is working but Temp is going straight up to Red after few minutes with engine running. No water loss or any signs of over heating. Earth's seem to be ok

Have you measured the resistance of the temp sensor when cold and then hot to confirm its working seem to recall low temp high reading in kilo ohm and normal run temp around 300 ohms