Broken bracket

While working on my wife’s 2004 Range Rover HSE with the BMW M62 engine.

I hate to admit it, but It appears I broke the idler tensioner bracket off from the engine. Wrong size socket and too much torque…

I’ve taken pics and I’m hoping someone can tell me if I broke it off from the block or not. If not, what part do I now need to replace?

I’m wondering if there’s any reason why I couldn’t use some JB Weld.

any help is greatly appreciated.

Whoopsie......I would be amazed if any kind of epoxy would hold that tbh but happy to be proved wrong. I suspect you will be getting tension/torsion and vibrations on the pulley making it far from ideal.I wonder if there is enough depth to pop some holes in and thread something ?

ER1C said:

Whoopsie......I would be amazed if any kind of epoxy would hold that tbh but happy to be proved wrong. I suspect you will be getting tension/torsion and vibrations on the pulley making it far from ideal.I wonder if there is enough depth to pop some holes in and thread something ?

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I’m going to try the JB Weld this morning and let it sit for a day. There are two screws that hold the plate to the engine and the piece I broke off is behind the bracket. So, maybe the pressure of the two screws will be enough to keep it from coming back off. The pulley tensioner has a separate hole in the engine block it attaches to. I should have been more specific, this is what the little “shock absorber” looking thing attaches to that is used to help release tension on the pulley.

Rghj2 said:

I’m going to try the JB Weld this morning and let it sit for a day. There are two screws that hold the plate to the engine and the piece I broke off is behind the bracket. So, maybe the pressure of the two screws will be enough to keep it from coming back off. The pulley tensioner has a separate hole in the engine block it attaches to. I should have been more specific, this is what the little “shock absorber” looking thing attaches to that is used to help release tension on the pulley.

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Sounds good, give it a go.. On the plus side if epoxy fails it usually cleanly comes off so you would just be back at square one..

Initially the JB Weld appears to be holding. From what I can tell the part I broke off is part of the timing chain housing. Hopefully it holds for a month, she goes in next month to get the VANOS done and I’ll have them replace the housing at the same time.

Rghj2 said:

Initially the JB Weld appears to be holding. From what I can tell the part I broke off is part of the timing chain housing. Hopefully it holds for a month, she goes in next month to get the VANOS done and I’ll have them replace the housing at the same time.

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I have to admit, I am surprised.

Grrrrrr said:

I have to admit, I am surprised.

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Me too, I didn’t drive it until Monday and gave the JB Weld a good 24 hours to cure. Since then I’ve put a few hundred miles on the car.

All I can think is the piece behind the bracket that broke off is being assisted by the adjustment screw from the bracket.

I’m somewhat torn. I’m going to get the housing cover replaced next month, but part of me wants to see how long it will go before it has issues.

Rghj2 said:

Me too, I didn’t drive it until Monday and gave the JB Weld a good 24 hours to cure. Since then I’ve put a few hundred miles on the car.

All I can think is the piece behind the bracket that broke off is being assisted by the adjustment screw from the bracket.

I’m somewhat torn. I’m going to get the housing cover replaced next month, but part of me wants to see how long it will go before it has issues.

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Humm as interesting as it would be to find out how long the JB weld holds, you could bet your bottom dollar that it would let go at the most inopportune moment and end up very expensive
you could always test the repair for strength once the covers of the motor, do a little video

brianp38dse said:

Humm as interesting as it would be to find out how long the JB weld holds, you could bet your bottom dollar that it would let go at the most inopportune moment and end up very expensive
you could always test the repair for strength once the covers of the motor, do a little video

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That’s one of the best ideas I’ve heard in a while. When I get the housing cover replaced I’ll let the mechanic know I want the old one and I’ll post a video of what it takes to break the part off again. Considering the LOVE/hate relationship my wife and I have with both of our Land Rovers, the 04 Range Rover (hers) and my 02 Disco, it should be good for letting some frustration out out while still showing the cars some love.

Plus 1 ^^^^

wonder if using some fishing type scale weights as in how much force it takes for it to break off , look forward to see how strong it is

wonder if something like would be ok to use

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-...125203799617?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

Hope all goes well

brianp38dse said:

Humm as interesting as it would be to find out how long the JB weld holds, you could bet your bottom dollar that it would let go at the most inopportune moment and end up very expensive
you could always test the repair for strength once the covers of the motor, do a little video

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good call ,

is it a shear test they call it to see how strong the adhesive holds up plse , plus out of curiosity would u use something like fishing scale weights to pull on the part to see how much force it takes to break, or is there something better plse as in a device that can record the force at breaking point , yeh i know , I also find things like this interesting , lol

gstuart said:

good call ,

is it a shear test they call it to see how strong the adhesive holds up plse , plus out of curiosity would u use something like fishing scale weights to pull on the part to see how much force it takes to break, or is there something better plse as in a device that can record the force at breaking point , yeh i know , I also find things like this interesting , lol

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I seem to recall a spring thing at school for measuring Newton metres of force. Don't think it went that high though.

Grrrrrr said:

I seem to recall a spring thing at school for measuring Newton metres of force. Don't think it went that high though.

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Just a thought, could you use a torque wrench to test it, start low and gradually increase the tightening torque ?

Or the thing they use for testing chain breaking points on cranes

Update, the car is in the shop we sold our house and bought a new one. We start moving this week and should have the car back in a couple weeks

All great ideas, I’m also going to ask the mechanic what he thinks for a test.

Rghj2 said:

That’s one of the best ideas I’ve heard in a while. When I get the housing cover replaced I’ll let the mechanic know I want the old one and I’ll post a video of what it takes to break the part off again. Considering the LOVE/hate relationship my wife and I have with both of our Land Rovers, the 04 Range Rover (hers) and my 02 Disco, it should be good for letting some frustration out out while still showing the cars some love.

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Two Land Rover's you sound like ideal candidates for @myfirstl322 ,'s S&M club,see you there.

[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]

tomcat59alan said:

Two Land Rover's you sound like ideal candidates for @myfirstl322 ,'s S&M club,see you there.

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My wife and I love our Land Rovers and we just added a third Land Rover to the family. Amazon was selling this beauty and our toddler turns 3 on the 17th, she’ll love it.

I finally got my wife’s 04 Range Rover back from the shop. Unfortunately the bracket I used JB Weld on and was going to test for strength came apart as the mechanic took the belt off. I’ve included pictures of the old lower timing chain cover. This is the cover the Alternator and water pump attach to.

I consider myself fortunate I was able to drive it for as long as I did after using the JB Weld with no issues. As for the car, last thing to repair will be the brake master cylinder and then she’s done. At least for a while, there’s not much left to do.

Rghj2 said:

... she’s done. At least for a while, there’s not much left to do.

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That's what you think but they always manage to throw something new at you.

Grrrrrr said:

That's what you think but they always manage to throw something new at you.

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That she has, P1173, P0012 & P0022.

Two of the codes are related to the timing, so I’ll take it back in and they should redo the timing free. The shop just did both of the VANOS, the ABS unit was rebuilt, replaced the bottom timing chain cover and the fixed an oil leak.

I’m doing some research on P1173.