What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Got the dehumidifier in there at last (approx 1/4 litre pulled out in th efirst 2 hours although the headlining feels dry, as does the carpet). Booked him in to have th erear brakes done, take him there next Friday and they work on hi round the more rush jobs instead. Hopefully get him back in just a couple of days though. If so that (and the bill) will be a wedding anniversary present!
 
Got the dehumidifier in there at last (approx 1/4 litre pulled out in th efirst 2 hours although the headlining feels dry, as does the carpet). Booked him in to have th erear brakes done, take him there next Friday and they work on hi round the more rush jobs instead. Hopefully get him back in just a couple of days though. If so that (and the bill) will be a wedding anniversary present!
See if you can peel a corner of the carpet up, it can feel dry but the foam underneath can be full of water
 
Got a good DVM at last, so started work trying to find a fault. So far nothing that makes sense, I have continuity and low resistance from the BeCM plug to the door jam. The whole door loom is fine (from plug to plug at least). I did find a 30amp fuse that was melty, but it was fuse 12. Which does rear heated screen and left rear window. Both of which worked, even though the fuse clearly didn't. Just digging out RAVE to check all of the pin outputs to confirm what does and doesn't go to the door. Although for some reason I had a spiced in 20amp fuse for the power to drivers door straight out of the BeCM. Best I can tell it is something a PO did, but I can't figure out why.

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The sun roof needs a manual open and close as it is stuck. The key thing is missing (I am sure Dave gave it to me but I cannot locate it :rolleyes:)
Can I use any flat bladed instrument or will I damage the mechanism?
 
So I have power to the door. 12v as far as the outstation. Then 5v from the outstation to the microswitch. It makes no sense as to why the windows stopped working (maybe the window motor coincidentally died at the same time), but that is all I can think of. We Have power, we have continuity across signal wires. Beyond the microswitch, what else could it be? BeCM fault?
 
So I have power to the door. 12v as far as the outstation. Then 5v from the outstation to the microswitch. It makes no sense as to why the windows stopped working (maybe the window motor coincidentally died at the same time), but that is all I can think of. We Have power, we have continuity across signal wires. Beyond the microswitch, what else could it be? BeCM fault?
Have you checked the earth lines from the out station?
 
Have you checked the earth lines from the out station?
I tested the earth's on the door using a earthing point behind the kick panel and they were all strong. Which suggests the earth you mentioned behind the rear seat is still good. Otherwise I wouldn't get continuity. Unless there is a short to body I guess.
 
A thought, if I bridge the power to the door latch and the door jar data, it'd trick to the car into thinking the door was open. If it works I know the door latch is goosed. If it didn't work that'd say it is BeCM fault.

Or am I misunderstanding things?
 
My P38 needed a new battery, bought one today, changed the battery and its now on the bump stops and now will not respond to lifting, switch not flashing, compressor working.
Tried the free disc and cable EAS unlock and its made the situation worse.
Try again tomorrow!
Onward
 
So I have power to the door. 12v as far as the outstation. Then 5v from the outstation to the microswitch. It makes no sense as to why the windows stopped working (maybe the window motor coincidentally died at the same time), but that is all I can think of. We Have power, we have continuity across signal wires. Beyond the microswitch, what else could it be? BeCM fault?
Can you fit a external 12v to the motor wires and confirm its status? If it responds then you may need to back from there and over the hill again..... o_O
 
Can you fit a external 12v to the motor wires and confirm its status? If it responds then you may need to back from there and over the hill again..... o_O
As I understand it, 12v direct will fry the latch. So it makes testing it tricky.
 
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