300tdi Crankcase pressure when at running temp

Hi, I've added two videos via youtube shorts it seems I have a bit of crankcase pressure only when the engine is hot.
https://youtube.com/shorts/N1oL0-m9mrE?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/gJw5Zm9ODG4?feature=share

I've recently done a few jobs such as valve caps, tappet adjustments, rocker seal, cyclone o ring and an electric pump conversion as the lift pump was useless edit : ( inline pre-lift pump not yet blanked)

might be unrelated but I seem to have a slight "overfill" on the dipstick I assume this is because the lift pump is leaking into the sump? and the issue is pronounced with the electric fuel pump constantly pumping when the ignition is on or might be an unrelated issue.

Fit all the breather system back together, get engine hot, undo filler cap and just place it loosely in its hole, start engine and if cap blows off its fecked, if cap just rattles around keep on trucking.

If you have removed the mechanical lift pump, then there is no way for diesel to get into the sump, the inj pumps only really leak from two places, 1 the throttle spindle which is an external leak and 2 from the front drive seal, this is an internal leak but unlike the jap motors the fuel can only get into the cambelt housing, and not into the engine proper.

The 200 and the 300 are both crap to check the oil on, only way to be sure if to leave them overnight and then check, if you check when they are hot/warm they always show low, then you top up and next day they are then overfull.

lynall said:

Fit all the breather system back together, get engine hot, undo filler cap and just place it loosely in its hole, start engine and if cap blows off its fecked, if cap just rattles around keep on trucking.

If you have removed the mechanical lift pump, then there is no way for diesel to get into the sump, the inj pumps only really leak from two places, 1 the throttle spindle which is an external leak and 2 from the front drive seal, this is an internal leak but unlike the jap motors the fuel can only get into the cambelt housing, and not into the engine proper.

The 200 and the 300 are both crap to check the oil on, only way to be sure if to leave them overnight and then check, if you check when they are hot/warm they always show low, then you top up and next day they are then overfull.

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H lynall , i think you must be the god of landrovers I've seen you on almost every thread and are always posting useful information ,i should have been more specific the electric fuel pump is currently fitted inline before the lift pump as i was told electric fuel pumps are the most unreliable kit ever, however, i will update my post because I always leave something out, as for the oil level it's due a change anyway so ill be draining all that and ill make sure its okay next time along with a blank for the lift pump.

I did do the cap test and its like you said flutters about , with having the breather off multiple times i assume its just caput and a allisport one is needed , well not needed but i want one.

Lewi112 said:

H lynall , i think you must be the god of landrovers I've seen you on almost every thread and are always posting useful information ,i should have been more specific the electric fuel pump is currently fitted inline before the lift pump as i was told electric fuel pumps are the most unreliable kit ever, however, i will update my post because I always leave something out, as for the oil level it's due a change anyway so ill be draining all that and ill make sure its okay next time along with a blank for the lift pump.

I did do the cap test and its like you said flutters about , with having the breather off multiple times i assume its just caput and a allisport one is needed , well not needed but i want one.

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Cut the old cyclone up and you will see there aint much in there, I would just go with the cheap plastic one, shiny alloy dont stay shiny for long.

Yes how you have the elec pump fitted is going to cause issues, I removed the mech lift pump on my 200 years ago, its been elec since, using a cheap facet copy pump form ebay for 12 quid.
The engine does not actually need an external pump to run as the injection pump has its own internal vane fuel pump, with no lift pump the engine will be down a little on power at higher rpms, so this is where the facet copy pump comes into play, also makes fuel filter changes a breeze, and when you run out of fuel, which used to be a hobby of mine!

Crap pic, but you can see pump two self tappers into top of chassis rail, one piece of two core, cant for the life of me remember where I got the supply from, but I did switch it just in case.
Pic say Dec 2015 s o its had a fair test.

He is the god of landrovers, well spotted
Known as GOL to his mates (apparently).

The lift pump isn't really needed on a 200/300tdi, certainly not when the engine is running as the FiP takes over at that point and dragges the fuel it needs through the filter.
The original crankcase breather is a pretty simple affair but can get blocked as it's just a mesh which may, potentially, also allow more oil vapour into the engine.
The Alisport one uses internal baffles so is less prone to blockage and does allow the engine to breath easier.
I keep thinking I need one, but @ £80 I talk myself out of it regularly.

lynall said:

Cut the old cyclone up and you will see there aint much in there, I would just go with the cheap plastic one, shiny alloy dont stay shiny for long.

Yes how you have the elec pump fitted is going to cause issues, I removed the mech lift pump on my 200 years ago, its been elec since, using a cheap facet copy pump form ebay for 12 quid.
The engine does not actually need an external pump to run as the injection pump has its own internal vane fuel pump, with no lift pump the engine will be down a little on power at higher rpms, so this is where the facet copy pump comes into play, also makes fuel filter changes a breeze, and when you run out of fuel, which used to be a hobby of mine!

Crap pic, but you can see pump two self tappers into top of chassis rail, one piece of two core, cant for the life of me remember where I got the supply from, but I did switch it just in case.
Pic say Dec 2015 sView attachment 264810 o its had a fair test.

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Mines currently at the front of the engine I've just ordered all the bits such as oils and filters, blanking plate and such, i used a hep-02a £9.99 job with a spare slightly better £13.99 one, I made some wires that piggyback off the 12v fuel cut off solenoid all totally removable wires along with having a standard connector on the end meaning if I break down it'll be a simple plug in a new one , i was surprised how well its worked to be honest has totally transformed my landy after having a bad few batches of lift pumps.

miktdish said:

He is the god of landrovers, well spotted
Known as GOL to his mates (apparently).

The lift pump isn't really needed on a 200/300tdi, certainly not when the engine is running as the FiP takes over at that point and dragges the fuel it needs through the filter.
The original crankcase breather is a pretty simple affair but can get blocked as it's just a mesh which may, potentially, also allow more oil vapour into the engine.
The Alisport one uses internal baffles so is less prone to blockage and does allow the engine to breath easier.
I keep thinking I need one, but @ £80 I talk myself out of it regularly.

Click to expand...

I'm gonna pretend i havent ordered a allisport one from LR parts

Lewi112 said:

I'm gonna pretend i havent ordered a allisport one from LR parts

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Before and after pictures please

miktdish said:

Before and after pictures please

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I definitely will I need to get my moneys worth , I’ve been researching how the cyclone works and it seems you will always get that smoke when the turbo isn’t connected up due to the valve always being open , I wonder how the allisport version solves This I might use a inspection camera to look inside and I’ll post photos,

also I’m working on a new inlet project with actual wind tunnel backed Science , I might make a post about it if people are intrested in this ?

miktdish said:

Before and after pictures please

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Received it today, haven't fitted it yet but I've figured out how it works, much better design and the original as it has no moving parts, plus the with being metal i think it might also force the vapours to condense back to oil.

All hooked up , ignore the lift pump