Series 1 Gears not engaging.

Hello guys. My name is Zayn and I own a series 1 Landover. It has a series 3 engine and a series 2 gearbox.
My family just restored the Landover after 9 years and I was up an ready to drive it. I have been practicing shifting and have a decent amount of knowledge on how to drive it.
My first time on the road and it had turned off twice, I managed to get it to start.
However, now it has stopped and wont move for the past 2 days.
The engine starts after a long crank, the carburetor is spitting petrol and when I floor the clutch d try to engage a gear, it makes a grinding noise which indicates that the clutch has not been floored, however it has been making the grinding noise despite me fully pressing the clutch all the way. So by chance if it doesn't grind and finally engages in either the 1st or the 2nd gear, the car stops with a slight jerk.
And the rest is history.
How can I best analyze it because I need to get it back home.
Thanks

Sounds like clutch may be short of fluid and may have an air lock. Fuel spitting from carb may be a sign of timing not quite right.
Try starting it in gear with foot on clutch, if it try's to move then clutch is not releasing.

Bleed clutch.

tottot said:

Sounds like clutch may be short of fluid and may have an air lock. Fuel spitting from carb may be a sign of timing not quite right.
Try starting it in gear with foot on clutch, if it try's to move then clutch is not releasing.

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You were right, the brake fluid was over. I have refilled it with a dot 4 brake fluid and have tried pressing on to the clutch multiple times so that the fluid flows around. However, the fluid turned black and the clutch is getting harder to move every time I press on it until it is no longer moving. It feels like there is pressure building against my foot and if I just let it rest for less than 20 seconds, the clutch frees up.

Black in the fluid is a sign that the seals are breaking up. The fluid does not " flow around " it just goes back and fore. Bits of the rubber can partially block the flow ways in the cylinder. A short term fix may be to bleed through the system with fresh fluid clearing out the black stuff.

Have you got the push rod clearance set, best bleed the crappy black fluid out first that might be seals dissolving

Bobsticle said:

Bleed clutch.

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I searched about bleeding and I have gotten the gist of what it is supposed to do. The pipes are quite old and need to be changed, I think I will try bleeding the air out as soon as I put new pipes to it.
I will keep you posted, Thanks for the assistance .

tottot said:

Black in the fluid is a sign that the seals are breaking up. The fluid does not " flow around " it just goes back and fore. Bits of the rubber can partially block the flow ways in the cylinder. A short term fix may be to bleed through the system with fresh fluid clearing out the black stuff.

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If the rubber is breaking up, Wouldnt it be better to change the seals first and then clear the bubbles when the new pipes are fitted? Because according to my family, the rubber is too old and was supposed to be changed until they forgot to change it. I will be waiting for your advice. Thanks.

I have tried changing seals before you need to polish the bores a bit but if worn best to change the master cylinder and slave cylinder , fairly cheap over here

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2010/03/series-iii-workshop-manual/

The series 2a manual on same website too

k_zayn said:

If the rubber is breaking up, Wouldnt it be better to change the seals first and then clear the bubbles when the new pipes are fitted? Because according to my family, the rubber is too old and was supposed to be changed until they forgot to change it. I will be waiting for your advice. Thanks.

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yes best start from scratch then you know all is well