brianp38dse
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You can just unbolt the hole hub complete with disc of the axle, i did on mine i think i only swung the caliper out the way and just pulled the whole bearing hub out six bolts iirc.
P38A Help ! Catastrophic failure -ominous metallic clunking from rear
- Thread starter awkwardbob
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tomcat59alan
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Ah yes you are correct .
brianp38dse
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Ah yes you are correct .
Well it saves having to fight with the hub nut especially if your in a scrapyard and cant stop the shaft turning
tomcat59alan
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Thought it was a rear diff that's gone.Well it saves having to fight with the hub nut especially if your in a scrapyard and cant stop the shaft turning
brianp38dse
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My bad the rear has no shaft nut, i was getting confussed as i never undidit, i am easily confussed
tomcat59alan
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You had me going there.My bad the rear has no shaft nut, i was getting confussed as i never undidit, i am easily confussed
awkwardbob
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Well, the eBay one in Edinburger is gone.
I can try and coax the diff from the scrapped one (with no ramp, etc), try a specialist breaker I know of, or call William…
it’s either that or £800 + labour for a new one
I can try and coax the diff from the scrapped one (with no ramp, etc), try a specialist breaker I know of, or call William…
it’s either that or £800 + labour for a new one
dubbleRR
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Crikey i must check my diffs for oil,....Also ,sorry bob but you might half to check the viscous coupling in the transfer box,When they seize they can knacker diffs and ujs puts extra strain on them and they can fail..... Hope not....
i must check my diffs for oil,....Also ,sorry bob but you might half to check the viscous coupling in the transfer box,When they seize they can knacker diffs and ujs puts extra strain on them and they can fail..... Hope not....
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Ashcrofts do refurbed ones.
I believe the 4 pin and 2 pin are interchangeable but never tried it so not certain. 4 pin on later models although rear diff with traction control on earlier models should be 4 pin post '97. I seem to recall a lively debate as some were and some weren't, presumably as JLR used the parts bin up.
awkwardbob
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Ashcroft are a good shout -about half the price quoted and a known / refurbished item rather than a pull from a donor.
unfortunately they’re closed to Monday and their lead times may be too long
unfortunately they’re closed to Monday and their lead times may be too long
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Henry_b
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30min swap
1) Remove rear calipers and discs.
2) Undo the 6 or 8 bolts around the hub
3) slide the shafts out
4) Drop the rear propshaft off, 4 bolts.
5) undo all the nuts from around the final drive unit.
6) drop the old one out
7) clean the casing internally best you can
8) fit the new 'un.
9) slide the shaft in "oh yeh"
9) Add some new 75w90
1) Remove rear calipers and discs.
2) Undo the 6 or 8 bolts around the hub
3) slide the shafts out
4) Drop the rear propshaft off, 4 bolts.
5) undo all the nuts from around the final drive unit.
6) drop the old one out
7) clean the casing internally best you can
8) fit the new 'un.
9) slide the shaft in "oh yeh"
9) Add some new 75w90
awkwardbob
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Yeah I mailed them yesterday to ask about it and they said they have forklifts and high stands.
I know what I'm likely doing Monday ! -Just hope its not trashed like mine was !
Actually, I wonder if the dying diff / UJ was the source of the clunking from underneath....
One other daft question, How does one check the vu]iscous coupling isn't toast ?
brianp38dse
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You will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will
tomcat59alan
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Check the condition of the oil in the diff if it's full of shiny flecks I'd be weary. If the old bearing's were knackered then they would clunk when taking up drive.
dubbleRR
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That how i do it ,but in neutral if auto ,and manual for that mater ,Keep a constant pressure on the bar it should rotate slowly with force as said above,if it trys to snap the wheel stud its toastYou will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will
30min swap
1) Remove rear calipers and discs.
2) Undo the 6 or 8 bolts around the hub
3) slide the shafts out
4) Drop the rear propshaft off, 4 bolts.
5) undo all the nuts from around the final drive unit.
6) drop the old one out
7) clean the casing internally best you can
8) fit the new 'un.
9) slide the shaft in "oh yeh"
9) Add some new 75w90
And buy a battery grinder and gun rather than an expensive diff you wont regret it...
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
You will have to check the viscous when the motor is back together, with the car on the ground lift one front wheel use a beaker bar on a wheel nut and you should be able to turn the wheel slowly with firm pressure there is a torque figure but i cant remember it some one else will
70 nm on the hub nut with the refurbed unit I got on my manual box. It'll click if you go too fast but slow steady pressure and you should be able to tease it around. My knackered one was scrubbing the outside of the tyres and took 140Nm to turn.
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