Freelander 1 POWER

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So if you had to pick one system ron or remap what would you go for?

stage1 remap

the diff. must be noted :
i.e. ron box can be removed n fitted to another vehicle ..
the new map risks being replaced with stock-map by a repair-garage ..

with the ron-box .. i rekon a medium 'power' setting would be safer for the hp.fuel system

also re insurance .. r.b. be visible
remap not so .. unless a suitable computer reads the ecu content
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Hi, as @Nodge68 says about the c/c filter with the 'modified cyclone filer you definitely get more oil in the intercooler system.
I fitted a synergy 2a with the eco push button to mine in 2018 & it's done about 27,000 miles since without issue apart from the Pierburg MAF gave up the ghost about 3 weeks ago so I just refitted the original Bosch. I've only ever had it set on 3 which has always given a noticeable improvement on power along with better fuel consumption. It's fitted by the eng. fuse box in a w/proof bag with the harness pointing slightly down.
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.. about the c/c filter with the 'modified cyclone filer you definitely get more oil in the intercooler system.

just found out for myself about that .. and am considering reverting to the stock loo-roll filter setup ..
( except for now .. have misplaced the filter-clip piece )

i removed the bosch maf .. 'cause i'd been getting a fault code regarding 'low-airflow" ..
thing is .. for some reason .. i thought it were simply a result of having the ron-box connected ..
so i more-or-less ignored it as there were no running issues ..
( this is way-before the remap )

after the remap .. i removed the ron-box ..
( ok .. i had one day of rb. + remap experimentation .. using switchable Eco options only :D
( then removed it altogether ..

yeah .. so .. i suddenly got a running issue .. before and after rb. removal ..
"low-airflow " code remains regardless ( cleared it a number of times )

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

yesterday googled much about maf circuitry .. pierburg versus bosch 'n such

bosch maf inspection after removal .. :

Oil collecting at bottom of the 'S' duct .. where the air exits ..
obviously coming from inside the duct

i'm thinking the bosch maf design .. and method of air-measurement ..
be more susceptible to oil contamination .. and the resulting error ..
than the pierburg design ..

the pierburg ducting is straight-thru ..
'n one be hot-plate 'n the other .. hot-wire ...

~~~

i never had maf issue when using a pierburg maf + ron-box - on "10"
and there must have been similar crankcase pressures .. surely ..
( the cyclone breather filter thing .. having been fitted since 2012 )

have removed both maf types for a clean before ..
but didn't really look closely at them before cleaning ..

~~~~~~~~~~`

for now .. have replaced the bosch .. with a new Pierburg ..
( means having to have the ron-box re-connected up ..
( and All the Pierburg settings on mine .. have the standard setting no.10 maf-strength
( no choice there .. ;-/
rb. fuelling shall remain "off" ... :cool: .. for sure ..

'cause .. rb. med/med on a Eco1 setting + remap ..
resulted in one occurence of steering-going-lite at moderate acceleration in 3rd gear ..
exiting a roundabout .. lite drizzle on road surface .. ..
( tyres in fine condition .. conti's .. )
( edit ;- to add : it's in 2wd ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ edit2add ]
actually .. oil level needs to be considered here ..
i.e. in relationship to crankcase pressure ..
and .. i prefer the level at .. or just above .. halfway on the markings
just for c.pressure reasons ..

since last oil change .. i put a tad too much in ..
which would account for more oil thru the c.breather system
[ than usual ]

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yet to start engine .. check codes .. and test drive


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just found out for myself about that .. and am considering reverting to the stock loo-roll filter setup ..
( except for now .. have misplaced the filter-clip piece )

today i removed the bosch maf .. 'cause i'd been getting a fault code regarding 'low-airflow" ..
thing is .. for some reason .. i thought it were simply a result of having the ron-box connected ..
so i more-or-less ignored it as there were no running issues ..
( this is way-before the remap )

after the remap .. i removed the ron-box ..
( ok .. i had one day of rb. + remap experimentation .. using switchable Eco options only :D
( then removed it altogether ..

yeah .. so .. i suddenly got a running issue .. before and after rb. removal ..
"low-airflow " code remains regardless ( cleared it a number of times )

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

yesterday googled much about maf circuitry .. pierburg versus bosch 'n such

bosch maf inspection after removal .. :

Oil collecting at bottom of the 'S' duct .. where the air exits ..
obviously coming from inside the duct

i'm thinking the bosch maf design .. and method of air-measurement ..
be more susceptible to oil contamination .. and the resulting error ..
than the pierburg design ..

the pierburg ducting is straight-thru ..
'n one be hot-plate 'n the other .. hot-wire ...

~~~

i never had maf issue when using a pierburg maf + ron-box - on "10"
and there must have been similar crankcase pressures .. surely ..
( the cyclone breather filter thing .. having been fitted since 2012 )

have removed both maf types for a clean before ..
but didn't really look closely at them before cleaning ..

~~~~~~~~~~`

for now .. have replaced the bosch .. with a new Pierburg ..
( means having to have the ron-box re-connected up ..
( and All the Pierburg settings on mine .. have the standard setting no.10 maf-strength
( no choice there .. ;-/
rb. fuelling shall remain "off" ... :cool: .. for sure ..

'cause .. rb. med/med on a Eco1 setting + remap ..
resulted in one occurence of steering-going-lite at moderate acceleration in 3rd gear ..
exiting a roundabout .. lite drizzle on road surface .. ..
( tyres in fine condition .. conti's .. )
( edit ;- to add : it's in 2wd ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ edit2add ]
actually .. oil level needs to be considered here ..
i.e. in relationship to crankcase pressure ..
and .. i prefer the level at .. or just above .. halfway on the markings
just for c.pressure reasons ..

since last oil change .. i put a tad too much in ..
which would account for more oil thru the c.breather system
[ than usual ]

`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
yet to start engine .. check codes .. and test drive


~
Hi, one thing I did notice in the lead up to the Peirburg MAF failing was the way the power was delivered it was all most switch like (more punchy & a bit like a two stroke bike when it hit the power band & a bit like your steering going light). Now it's back on the Bosch MAF it's power delivery has definitely changed.
With the 'fluffy' filter (I like that @Nodge68) for the breather there's very little oil in the intercooler/hoses compared to the cyclone type (so I'm in the fluffy team:)) & I've not had any oil in the MAF area or S bend, the only thing I'll add which might have a baring on oil in intercooler/hoses, is silicone hoses, I fitted a good set of branded (not cheapo) hoses & after about a year they always had a greasy/slimy feel to them & I always had oil dripping onto the top of the gear box from the hose to the EGR (never could seal it), so I changed them all back to original rubber ones & not had a problem since, I've deliberately checked for oil & there's barely any, not sure what they're like for coolant but I won't be using them (silicone) again.
Like you I like to keep the oil level at least in the middle & run on 5w40 fully syn.
I'm suprised it hasn't gone into limp mode (like mine) if you have low MAF readings.
 
I'm suprised it hasn't gone into limp mode (like mine) if you have low MAF readings.
in my case ..
probably not low enough from the optimal level .. to trigger a limp mode.
there's had been no apparent running issues .. until .. wednesday .
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am sort of worried about using the p.maf .. with the remap
am hoping it won't cause an over-fuelling smokey issue ..
shall see ..

but can't test it 'till .. maybe sunday ;-/

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am sort of worried about using the p.maf .. with the remap
am hoping it won't cause an over-fuelling smokey issue ..
shall see ..

I think you could have had the EGR requirement mapped out, which would mean that any MAF signal would theoretically be ignored, only the intake temperature would be needed.
 
Hi, one thing I did notice in the lead up to the Peirburg MAF failing was the way the power was delivered it was all most switch like (more punchy & a bit like a two stroke bike when it hit the power band & a bit like your steering going light). Now it's back on the Bosch MAF it's power delivery has definitely changed.
With the 'fluffy' filter (I like that @Nodge68) for the breather there's very little oil in the intercooler/hoses compared to the cyclone type (so I'm in the fluffy team:)) & I've not had any oil in the MAF area or S bend, the only thing I'll add which might have a baring on oil in intercooler/hoses, is silicone hoses, I fitted a good set of branded (not cheapo) hoses & after about a year they always had a greasy/slimy feel to them & I always had oil dripping onto the top of the gear box from the hose to the EGR (never could seal it), so I changed them all back to original rubber ones & not had a problem since, I've deliberately checked for oil & there's barely any, not sure what they're like for coolant but I won't be using them (silicone) again.
Like you I like to keep the oil level at least in the middle & run on 5w40 fully syn.
I'm suprised it hasn't gone into limp mode (like mine) if you have low MAF readings.
Thinking as well to go back to the ‚old‘ filter, since I read being mentioned it by, I think Arctic2. Nodge68 brought it back to my mind and will do now as well, though my egr was pretty clean in the last 50k w/o cleaning, but somehow the engineers must have had something in mind when doing it. Had it changed to silicone hoses because the rubber blewn a couple of times, but that was maybe pressure from elsewhere, maybe the valve.
 
I think you could have had the EGR requirement mapped out, which would mean that any MAF signal would theoretically be ignored, only the intake temperature would be needed.
belated reply :)

i contacted the remap outfit yesterday .. and it's not a maf-less type remap ..
anyhowz .. since march.13th i've been chasing a performance issue .. in that ..
on acceleration .. it sort-of-like hit a brickwall with a hint of surging ..

i thought .. due to something i did .. that it were primarily a fuel delivery issue
so i changed the fuel filter and 12v pump .. that helped a bit .. but the performance issue remained
so .. as i had a spare hp.regulator .. i changed that .. still the issue remained

as the 'low airflow' code remained .. and could not be cleared ..
1st i tried a short uphill run after disconnecting the bosch maf .. it ran better
[ then i emailed the remapper 'n asked if it were a mafless type ]

so i decided to try the pierburg maf [ ron-box refit were needed .. obviously ;-] .. as that's all i had
perplexing .. as both mafs be virtually new ..
[ in the meantime i'm sifting thru lz posts .. and my service notes
[ looking at the sequence of events

then i saw something .. that i'd obviously missed , the times i'd removed / refitted the air-filter cover
the turbo-filter hose had a flattened portion to it ..
and the filter had slid down the ird-breather pipe .. n' had stuck there ..
thereby pinching the filter hose ..
[ filter clip missing .. had used 2 small cable ties ]

afaik .. blocked filter = turbo vanes restricted from opening up
[ maf .. un-clearable 'low airflow' code now making some sense ]

so .. with some copper brake pipe .. sorted a fix ..
two short uphill test runs .. indicates issue probably sorted
[ can hopefully claim 'solved' after a longer drive ]
maf code still triggers .. but now can be cleared
[ i think that code always has come up
[ when i've the r.b. n p.maf fitted ..
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........................
as for the other .. not-needed work ..
replacing the f.filter were a + .. [ had not done it b4 ]
'n changing-the-regulator .. went smoother than the previous attempt
[ when i accidentally broke the regulator shaft on removal :rolleyes: ]

................................................................................................................
( EDIT 29th march .. a long drive, showed the issue still remains :;-((
( t'weren't the pinched hose ..
( nor is it the f.r. sensor .. as i changed it ..
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( EDIT 1st april :eek: .. issue found ..
( looks to be the maf harness plug / wiring ..
( i.e. known good maf sensors tried .. no go
( disconnected maf .. runs fine ..
recap: issue was .. none or extremely weak .. depending .. acceleration above 2000 rpm ..
 
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a brief update ..
i've not got around to testing the maf wiring harness
instead .. i cut a pierburg maf in half .. making sure there be no possibility of any bits falling into the intake,
and used it to plug up the maf hole
i covered the connecter pins with insulation tape ..
and re-situated the plug in the socket .. i.e. not fully clipped in .. just slid in loosely
so it appears to be connected ..
[ cut the sensor in half to lessen air-flow restriction ]

so mafless ..
i also have reinstated the ron box .. fueling 'on' .. setting '1' ..and the 3-way dash switch on 'eco-1'
the go-pedal curve is excellent ;-] ..
no indications at all of over-fueling .. no exhaust smoking or smell.. engine noise .. exhaust tone .. remains smooth
[ straight thru exhaust backbox ] .. power performance ?.. nirvana ;-]
i've neither tried full go-pedal nor taken rpm over 3k .. absolutely no need to .. or desire to do so
[ same goes for the other 2 'stronge'r dash switch settings .. or ron-box fueling settings for that matter ]

mpg to date .. 'ac' always 'on' .. 39 mpg ...
[ prior to the remap .. and with the ronbox on 'max' .. mpg were 38 aprox ]
mot due shortly .. i'll be interested in the emissions report .. fingers crossed it'll pass that test

exhaust and engine 'tone' far more civilized than when running the ron-box 'n stock engine mapping.

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`s`
 
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