D4 serious engine problems

The threat of this catastrophic failure has put me off any vehicle with that engine. Admittedly we see the problems far too frequently on these forums, what we don't see are the majority of happy owners who enjoy these vehicles.
I wonder what percentage of these fail, could it be as high as 5/10%?

Diesel Vauxhall Insignias have the same issues which are linked to the Dpf system, but other manufacturers are also affected. Up until recently spun bearings and broken cranks were never a problem unless in a high mileage and worn engine.

I'm surprised LR haven't been pulled into court because of their miserly treatment of victims.

Hi all
So I tested the voltage across the batter last night, when running. 11.5v, clearly not charging.

I fully charged the battery this morning. Started her up, and all the warnings had cleared, including the suspension warning which had appeared before the engine noise started.

However, the significant rattle remains. It sounds like somewhat like the videos I have now seen on YouTube of broken cranks / spun bearings. I am scratching my head over the charging and suspension issue though. I know that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and this is probably why the suspension warning appeared, which cleared when I fully charged it. But this issue appeared before the engine noise started.

I will continue to update..

Could the noise you are hearing be coming from a bearing in the knackered alternator and therefore nothing to do with the engine?

Is your alternator actually the culprit of the noise?

2 good points ^^^ Well its actually the same point but if 2 people suggest it, its got to be worth follow up.
Plus have you checked the "current" fault list again with a fully charged battery?

J

Thanks for the suggestion - however, the noise seems to be coming from higher up than the alternator, and moving the engine more than I would expect from that.

I will check the OBD faults again though and see what has changed. I will also the garage when it goes in to check the alternator.

Plus 1 what’s already been mentioned , also check ur engine mounts for any signs of leaking as there filled with oil

apologises can’t remember is urs stop start with the extra battery in the boot plse

Really hope it’s something simple with an easy fix

Kenbo said:

The threat of this catastrophic failure has put me off any vehicle with that engine. Admittedly we see the problems far too frequently on these forums, what we don't see are the majority of happy owners who enjoy these vehicles.
I wonder what percentage of these fail, could it be as high as 5/10%?

Diesel Vauxhall Insignias have the same issues which are linked to the Dpf system, but other manufacturers are also affected. Up until recently spun bearings and broken cranks were never a problem unless in a high mileage and worn engine.

I'm surprised LR haven't been pulled into court because of their miserly treatment of victims.

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I have no idea on percentages, and many will tell you the figure is low very low, but that does not explain why finding 2.7 and now 3.0 engines is am expensive/troublesome exercise, then there are the fitting costs on top, very soon you are into serious money.
The other issue is when the crank fails it wrecks the block, which is one reason there are not many about for sensible money.

Many people have used Jag engines, the Jags do fail but nowheres near as common as the LR versions.
The 2.7 also used to fail in the Renault and Citroen versions, not looked into the Jag 3.0 version so cant comment on that.

Some people have fitted the RRS V8 as replacements

MJI said:

Some people have fitted the RRS V8 as replacements

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I think the Russians did disco to 3.6 v8 first?

Also found these videos very interesting , plus the reference with regards to prolonged starting






https://youtu.be/QpE6gKqLfMM
https://youtu.be/rtzeyvaEhc4

Thanks all. These YouTube videos are very helpful and - if there is anything positive to be taken here - I feel I understand my car better than before. Whatever the outcome, I’ll be steering clear of this engine in the future. I expected this engine to be capable of at least 200k, and probably a lot more.

cookie500 said:

Thanks all. These YouTube videos are very helpful and - if there is anything positive to be taken here - I feel I understand my car better than before. Whatever the outcome, I’ll be steering clear of this engine in the future. I expected this engine to be capable of at least 200k, and probably a lot more.

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Tbh any engine should do 200k with just general servicing/cambelts etc, and maybe an odd head gasket etc, but the main unit should last pretty much forever.

Stanleysteamer said:

Would it start and run with a snapped crank?
I can't imagine that.

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They can run (albeit noisily) if the crank as broken across a big end journal. I've seen one where the rod cap held the crank together for some time, but it eventually seized up, due to lack of lubricant.

cookie500 said:

Thanks all. These YouTube videos are very helpful and - if there is anything positive to be taken here - I feel I understand my car better than before. Whatever the outcome, I’ll be steering clear of this engine in the future. I expected this engine to be capable of at least 200k, and probably a lot more.

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I got rid of my D3 with 178k on it, and the engine was still performing and sounding fine.

However it was always in the back of my mind whether the journey I'd just started, would end up on the back of a breakdown truck.

However as far as I can tell, the engine is still working just fine at over 205k, according to the latest MOT test.

So not all TDV6s are effected with this issue, it seems more down to luck than anything else.

It is luck nothing else with these engines, I won't upgrade our D3 to a D4 I think yhe D3 mite actually be better. My mates RRS blew it's engine think he is 7k into engine rebuild and other costs.

biketeacherdave said:

It is luck nothing else with these engines, I won't upgrade our D3 to a D4 I think yhe D3 mite actually be better. My mates RRS blew it's engine think he is 7k into engine rebuild and other costs.

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From the extensive research I did when I had my D3, it seemed that if the crank got to over 100k (they normally failed well before 100k) then it'd like be ok for another 100k +.
I know of many D3s well over 300k, and one that made it to 460k before I needed pistons.

Heard rumours 3 suppliers and 1 suppliers were poor