Gearbox

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Presumably that's with the engine off & the meter connected to the battery terminals?

If so the battery is knackered. Not much chance of recovery either if it's gone that low but you could put it on a battery charger & see what happens.

These are electrically complicated cars & anything other then a fully charged battery & working charging system can throw up all sorts of issues.

Don't bother trying to run the car to charge it - if you could even get it to turn over: www.optimabatteries.com/experience/blog/fact-alternators-are-not-designed-to-charge-dead-batteries Disregard the red top/blue top etc marketing in the last paragraph.

Where did you get the battery from, when was it fitted & what brand is it?

I would also suggest you get a proper diagnostic done to see what comes up. If that was a good fully charged battery when fitted then there may be other faults in the car's electrical systems.
 
Morning mate, just put my multimeter on the battery and I’m getting between 4-6 volts showing, then it displays OL and then shows the same voltage output. Any ideas as the battery is new?
If the meter is showing OL it means the voltage is out of the range set on the meter so any reading is meaningless. If your meter is auto ranging, then it's faulty. If the range is set manually, then it's set to the wrong range. I presume it's set to DC and not AC?
 
Yes set to DC, tested an AA to check meter and that was ok.
I say again, OL equals out of range, or if you prefer Over Load, so your measurement of the car battery is meaningless.
An AA battery is 1.5 volts compared to the 12.6 to 12.8 volts you should see from the car battery. Either the meter is faulty if it is autoranging or it's set to the wrong range if range selection is manual. It should be set to DC 20 volts range if manual.
 
Presumably that's with the engine off & the meter connected to the battery terminals?

If so the battery is knackered. Not much chance of recovery either if it's gone that low but you could put it on a battery charger & see what happens.

These are electrically complicated cars & anything other then a fully charged battery & working charging system can throw up all sorts of issues.

Don't bother trying to run the car to charge it - if you could even get it to turn over: www.optimabatteries.com/experience/blog/fact-alternators-are-not-designed-to-charge-dead-batteries Disregard the red top/blue top etc marketing in the last paragraph.

Where did you get the battery from, when was it fitted & what brand is it?

I would also suggest you get a proper diagnostic done to see what comes up. If that was a good fully charged battery when fitted then there may be other faults in the car's electrical systems.
Had a diagnostic done today and there was a fault re the gearbox, he cleared it and so far so good, although I only took it on a short run. Rad needs replacing so once that’s done I’ll take it for a run and see what happens.
 
I had a disco 3 a few years back where the suspension would drop, £300 on a new battery and it made no difference. Bloody worry me these cars do
So they should! A suspension drop is more likely related to EAS than battery though i’m sure Keith will know of a scenario where the battery can be the issue. Usually anything can be issue, even, for example, the door handle!
 
Just slowly and be prepared for breakages. A lot of fitting on cars after 2000 are prone to rust really fast. So a lot of fittings don't survive the ordeal. :)
 
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