2012 4.4 TDV8 Oil Change

Hi everyone. My father has bought himself a 2012 Overfinch Range Rover with the 4.4 TDV8. It's due a service and, having had some bad experiences with his local dealership in the past, he's asked me to do the work.

Unfortunately the information available online is pretty unclear owing to the fact that there were so many 4.4l V8 engines available for the L322 and people have an annoying habit of not specifying which one they're talking about.

I was wondering if one of you kind people could point me toward a DIY for the oil change. Or, failing that, the oil capacity, approx sump plug location and sump plug tightening torque would be a great help.

Cheers

Don't be hasty, if your father has the wherewithall to squander 25k he can squander a further £150 on someone who at least knows the basics.
With all due respect, elbow and arse springs to mind. Sue me.

@blue beasty, what? I took the swear words out!

With all due respect to you, I do know the basics - I don't think this will be much of a challenge compared to adjusting the valve clearances on my S54 last weekend but I don't like to rush in no-matter how simple the job appears to be. Unfortunately, there isn't much information on these engines online and my research has come up with some contradictory information. I thought that some friendly person on a land rover forum might be forthcoming with the information I need to do the job - i.e. drain plug torque specifications, oil capacity and any special procedures or other insider knowledge that might save me a headache.

I don't know about you but I'm not in the habit of wasting £150 when it isn't necessary. Quite aside from that, I want to do the job for the sheer fun of it.

MikeRoss said:

With all due respect to you, I do know the basics - I don't think this will be much of a challenge compared to adjusting the valve clearances on my S54 last weekend but I don't like to rush in no-matter how simple the job appears to be. Unfortunately, there isn't much information on these engines online and my research has come up with some contradictory information. I thought that some friendly person on a land rover forum might be forthcoming with the information I need to do the job - i.e. drain plug torque specifications, oil capacity and any special procedures or other insider knowledge that might save me a headache.

I don't know about you but I'm not in the habit of wasting £150 when it isn't necessary. Quite aside from that, I want to do the job for the sheer fun of it.

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But......... A simple look underneath will reveal a sump plug without too much searching. Oil capacity and grade will be in the owners manual and if you know what you're doing, you should be able to torque up the sump plug by feel. Failing that a 30 second phone call to your local dealer should provide the torque value.
You have to admit that anyone who asks how to do an oil change on a 25 grand car to save maybe 75 quid is asking for a bit of ridicule.

Sorry Mike, I'm in a playful mood.
No idea on torque settings, that's for cylinder heads only in my book.

Sump plug is at the bottom of the engine, sometimes requiring the removal of an under tray.

I'm sure you are capable, but are you brave?

Wazzajnr said:

But......... A simple look underneath will reveal a sump plug without too much searching. Oil capacity and grade will be in the owners manual and if you know what you're doing, you should be able to torque up the sump plug by feel. Failing that a 30 second phone call to your local dealer should provide the torque value.
You have to admit that anyone who asks how to do an oil change on a 25 grand car to save maybe 75 quid is asking for a bit of ridicule.

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The car is currently 170 miles away from me so a quick peek underneath isn't feasible. Some sources I've come across claim there are two sump plugs. Some sources claim that the sump plug is inaccessible due to insufficient clearance to the sub-frame. Torque up the sump plug by feel? Oh dear. Part of my job is developing torque specs. It's hard enough to account for variability when people use the correct tools, never-mind when they think they can do it by feel!

I really don't see why such a question is a cause for ridicule - every dealership has access to an online database so they can ask the computer exactly these questions when you give them your car. Mechanics don't have an encyclopaedic knowledge of every torque spec. and oil capacity for every car that might come through the door.

As stated, the reason for me doing the work is not to save £75 (a conservative estimate considering the oil alone is £60ish) it's because he's had a bad experience in the past with the local dealer and because I enjoy getting under a car.

myfirstl322 said:

I'm sure you are capable, but are you brave?

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If it were my car I'd have got under it and broken something already . I'm more careful with other people's cars.

2 sump plugs
I've never heard of such engineering affluence.

myfirstl322 said:

2 sump plugs
I've never seen such wanten disregard to economics of scale.

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It's a Ford lump isn't it? From my insider knowledge of Ford; someone probably put two in just so they could remove the second as a cost save later.

Edit: The source of this (mis)information: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post318534.html

Well, after more digging I found this: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic31542.html

It says you drain via a hose, not a sump plug. That would have really confused me if I wasn't expecting it.

Me too.
Seems they plonked in a engine that possibly can't be drained the proper way, time to invest in a suction pump......how the budget looking now?

MikeRoss said:

The car is currently 170 miles away from me so a quick peek underneath isn't feasible. Some sources I've come across claim there are two sump plugs. Some sources claim that the sump plug is inaccessible due to insufficient clearance to the sub-frame. Torque up the sump plug by feel? Oh dear. Part of my job is developing torque specs. It's hard enough to account for variability when people use the correct tools, never-mind when they think they can do it by feel!

I really don't see why such a question is a cause for ridicule - every dealership has access to an online database so they can ask the computer exactly these questions when you give them your car. Mechanics don't have an encyclopaedic knowledge of every torque spec. and oil capacity for every car that might come through the door.

As stated, the reason for me doing the work is not to save £75 (a conservative estimate considering the oil alone is £60ish) it's because he's had a bad experience in the past with the local dealer and because I enjoy getting under a car.

Click to expand...

Look, I get it, you want to do the job, fine. My point about the ridicule was simply that the way you worded the question was suggesting that you didn't know much about working on cars. Apologies as that clearly isn't the case. However, if you are so confident in your abilities then I'm sure once you drive 170 miles to the car armed with your tools and oil you will suss it out. If your job is developing torque specs then I'm sure you can look at the sump material, the size of the plug and thread pitch and the sealing washer and come up with a reasonably accurate torque setting. As to doing it by hand, no need to say "oh dear" many mechanics have been tightening up sump plugs for years and years without a torque value available.
And yes, give me a bar and I bet I can get a bolt torque within 10 percent by feel alone. It's not difficult, if it's 20ft/lb and you have a 1ft long bar, you pull 20lb on the end. 10 bags of sugar.
I work with operators on machines and they simply can't do it, they have no concept of how tight to do something and will keep going til it shears. In your line of work I would hope you can feel it better than them. At the end of the day, it needs to be tight enough to deform the sealing medium (copper washer or whatever) but not tight enough to deform the threads.
As I said, a 30 second call to any dealer will get you the official value.

myfirstl322 said:

Me too.
Seems they plonked in a engine that possibly can't be drained the proper way, time to invest in a suction pump......how the budget looking now?

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He's got enough to spaff £25k on a range rover so he can buy me some new tools, can't he?

He may have spent 15k of his own money and took the rest out in your name....now that I would laugh at
I'd laugh even heartier if he already possessed a vacuum pump

Mike my dear cousin ( yes, I have Ross blood), I think you may be just the man to do the Job, report back, not too may 4.4 dervs on ere';

How did you get on Mike? I'm planning to do my 2012 tdv8 soon, any tips would be helpful

I know this is a very old thread, but I came across it when double checking / looking up total Oil capacity because I work on all makes and don't have an encyclopaedic memory for this sort of hum drum data ................

So I'll post it here for any one else who may search in the future and need the Info ....................

2012 TDV8 4.4 litre

9 .5 litres for Drain and Refill with new filter.

Oil Filter is located in the centre of the Inlet Manifold after removing the plastic Intake Cover.

To drain them, there is no plug(s) !!
Either use the hose and suction from the top, or being a dinosaur I don't like Vac method there is always a small amount left, so I take 5 minutes to stick it up on the lift, remove the Undershield, the Drain Pipe is on the right side of Sump, has two oblong square catches to release it and slide it off the Sump Stub. Make sure your catch can / oil recovery "Dalek" is well positioned before letting that hose go, think Exon - Valdise Disaster

Now, I'm always up for a bit of P takin' but FFS fellas, how naffin' hard was /\ /\ /\ that

Help a fellow Forum member out, then take the proverbial eh ?

Well well well... (that's my eyes filling up with liquid moisture again btw)

Roflmfao

Good to see you're still here despite all those corked luncheons

MikeRoss said:

The car is currently 170 miles away from me so a quick peek underneath isn't feasible. Some sources I've come across claim there are two sump plugs. Some sources claim that the sump plug is inaccessible due to insufficient clearance to the sub-frame. Torque up the sump plug by feel? Oh dear. Part of my job is developing torque specs. It's hard enough to account for variability when people use the correct tools, never-mind when they think they can do it by feel!

I really don't see why such a question is a cause for ridicule - every dealership has access to an online database so they can ask the computer exactly these questions when you give them your car. Mechanics don't have an encyclopaedic knowledge of every torque spec. and oil capacity for every car that might come through the door.

As stated, the reason for me doing the work is not to save £75 (a conservative estimate considering the oil alone is £60ish) it's because he's had a bad experience in the past with the local dealer and because I enjoy getting under a car.

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Ridicule is part of our idiom. You must be a real cherry or you would know that.
Stick around. Your dad's gonna need it.