TD5 Low top end

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Check the fuel pump or replace it with the one from your spare vehicle. You can measure the voltage to check it the HP side is working properly, plus they do fill up with sludge.
You can measure pressure at the FPR using an oil pressure gauge plumbed into the temp sensor port. You should get 4bar or over 50psi if i recall. Figures are online somewhere. You can buy the gauges on Amazon cheap and they work.
The other one people forget about is sticky calipers which can cause problems.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I’ll check pressure today I actually have a proper test kit so hopefully that has the adaptor to go off the temp port.

I have set the injectors and rechecked timing, the only thing I could add is on acceleration my revs will “jolt” upwards by 50rpm or so, definitely not clutch slip, but other than that they’re quite accurate and the scanner live data confirms (not landy specific just a decent all branded one)
 
Ok so just done the pressure test it hits just shy of 4 bar when the pump prime, it will then oscillate on idle as they do, then I filmed the gauge as I revved in neutral it drops to 3 bar around 3k revs, so the questions is should it hold the pressure of 4bar or is that normal to see a drop? I don’t know how theee fuel systems work but I’m guessing this could be my problem? Guess I could try comparing on my cheap disco but that’s covered in oil and if I don’t get a definitive answer here I’ll have to
 
Freelander1banger said:
Ok so just done the pressure test it hits just shy of 4 bar when the pump prime, it will then oscillate on idle as they do, then I filmed the gauge as I revved in neutral it drops to 3 bar around 3k revs, so the questions is should it hold the pressure of 4bar or is that normal to see a drop? I don’t know how theee fuel systems work but I’m guessing this could be my problem? Guess I could try comparing on my cheap disco but that’s covered in oil and if I don’t get a definitive answer here I’ll have to
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Don't quote me on any of this cos all i know I have learned on here.
But I think there are two "parts" to the pump, low pressure and high pressure. It sounds to me as if the high pressure "bit" may be fubar. Is it too much of a pain to swop the pumps? i know you have to get the carpet up etc and changing the fuel lines is heart-stopping.:eek::eek:
 
Thankyou on your advice. I did find another post that states reading from the temp port is a direct link to the pressure in the head, so with my issues and the fact it goes down as I rev I’m just going to replace the pump. They’re under £100 and gives me piece of mind since I do long trips in it, now do I do the typical no reply end of thread so anyone in the future reading this gets incredibly frustrated and has no answer…? Haha
 
skintnow said:
I own a landie I am always Skintnow
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I own three, I daren't touch more than one at a time!!!!
Recently over £1k to repair a stooopid Autobox leak. It had to come off and go back on again. All it needed was bolts tightening up and a new paper gasket. FFS. Couldn't do it myself, as i have to work outside on gravel.
Have to say though that is one of the very few jobs I've ever had to give someone else to do and deffo the most I've paid for a repair.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I own three, I daren't touch more than one at a time!!!!
Recently over £1k to repair a stooopid Autobox leak. It had to come off and go back on again. All it needed was bolts tightening up and a new paper gasket. FFS. Couldn't do it myself, as i have to work outside on gravel.
Have to say though that is one of the very few jobs I've ever had to give someone else to do and deffo the most I've paid for a repair.
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Will do them all myself .
Lucky to have access to a workshop
 
skintnow said:
Will do them all myself .
Lucky to have access to a workshop
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I sometimes think anyone who buys a Landy should only be allowed to do so if they can prove access to space and tools!!!
Or an annual fee for a psychiatrist!!!
I doubt there is any luck involved, you prolly love playing with mechanical things. My problem is my garage is just an ornery double on a house and I can't even get the Discos in it!!!
Plus it is full of a kit car I am supposed to be finishing.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I sometimes think anyone who buys a Landy should only be allowed to do so if they can prove access to space and tools!!!
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Why? Anything up to about the turn of the century are probably the easiest vehicles in the World to work on outside, with very basic tools.
You don't even need to jack them up to do a lot of the jobs, like diff changes. I work outside all the time, and have never had access to anything more sophisticated than an earth floored, open sided farm shed. But I have done pretty much every job you can do on a Series or a Ninety.
 
Turboman said:
Why? Anything up to about the turn of the century are probably the easiest vehicles in the World to work on outside, with very basic tools.
You don't even need to jack them up to do a lot of the jobs, like diff changes. I work outside all the time, and have never had access to anything more sophisticated than an earth floored, open sided farm shed. But I have done pretty much every job you can do on a Series or a Ninety.
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I too have worked on Series with no workshop and yes you can more or less work on the gearbox while sitting in the car!
I too have taken the diffs off my Disco as you say, you can work on that from underneath too. But an autobox on a Disco is quite simply too big and heavy. Even once you have taken the transfer box off.
If I had a firmer piece of ground or laid down some stiff board, jacked up the driver's side and put my engine crane in the passenger side door, I could apparently get the autobox out. That's the way Jamesmartin recommends. But I am not a weightlifter and I work on my own, so try to know my limits. If I did have a lift and a smooth surface, I would buy/make the gearbox jacking type stuff and then do it.
Things have got more difficult since the turn of the century. Disco 1s are deffo easier to work on than Disco2s.:rolleyes: and ornery gearboxes are a lot lighter than autoboxes, they always have been.
 
Turboman said:
Why? Anything up to about the turn of the century are probably the easiest vehicles in the World to work on outside, with very basic tools.
You don't even need to jack them up to do a lot of the jobs, like diff changes. I work outside all the time, and have never had access to anything more sophisticated than an earth floored, open sided farm shed. But I have done pretty much every job you can do on a Series or a Ninety.
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Acksherly, i'd be a very happy bunny at the mo it I had access to an open sided shed. I'm even thinking of putting just that up on our land in frogland as at least it wouldn't attract bloody local taxes! And as for the floor, well once you've got it covered you can put pretty much anything down. In fact I'd get concreting and fit a 2 post lift!
And I think the need for tools is a given. Still have to make some specialist ones though.;)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Acksherly, i'd be a very happy bunny at the mo it I had access to an open sided shed. I'm even thinking of putting just that up on our land in frogland as at least it wouldn't attract bloody local taxes! And as for the floor, well once you've got it covered you can put pretty much anything down. In fact I'd get concreting and fit a 2 post lift!
And I think the need for tools is a given. Still have to make some specialist ones though.;)
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I used an old carpet for flooring, keep the dust down, and the mud under it in winter.
Open sided is best for me, because you get more natural light in there than any other kind of structure, except maybe a greenhouse.
Speaking of which, I have also seen some good vehicle work done in polytunnels, and they aren't expensive either.
 
Turboman said:
I used an old carpet for flooring, keep the dust down, and the mud under it in winter.
Open sided is best for me, because you get more natural light in there than any other kind of structure, except maybe a greenhouse.
Speaking of which, I have also seen some good vehicle work done in polytunnels, and they aren't expensive either.
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Yup there sure are a lot of ways of doing stuff.
If I put up another poly tunnel on our Frog place I'd die working in it, it's like a turkish bath in the summer!!! But I put carpet and cardboard down on the concrete floor of my ornery garage cos I have yet to get around to painting it. Concrete dust is a menace.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Yup there sure are a lot of ways of doing stuff.
If I put up another poly tunnel on our Frog place I'd die working in it, it's like a turkish bath in the summer!!! But I put carpet and cardboard down on the concrete floor of my ornery garage cos I have yet to get around to painting it. Concrete dust is a menace.
Click to expand...
Tunnels maybe aren't so good in a hot climate, the sun will also perish the plastic quicker than at higher latitudes.

Concrete, I was never that struck on, it is pretty expensive to lay, slippery when wet, and if water does blow in in a storm, it doesn't soak away so quickly on concrete as on bare earth.

The old Cornish way was to ram the earth floor, and then smear it with cow dung, which polished up quite well.
If you have cattle, they will do this for you quite naturally.
If you don't, a whacker plate does quite a good job, and they aren't expensive to hire for a few days.
 
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