Wolf 110 tub lift and/or removal.

Wolf Pack said:

Something like this, maybe?

Are Clarke a decent brand?

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Clarke are ok.... fairly standard issue for most stuff...Not the most expensive but reliable and basic..

Just reading that house of tents "Exclusion of Guarantee" its quite harsh, I would think seams would be 90 percent of the issue with manufacturing quality tbh.
"
c) For all cases of this guarantee, taking over transport costs by TOOLPORT GmbH; any costs for assembly and dismantling of the tent shall be borne by the claimant. A guarantee claim shall assume the correct assembly of the tent in accordance with static calculations as well as assembly instructions, and on the appropriate flooring under normal usage.

6. Exclusion of guarantees
The guarantees shall not cover eyelets, zips, ventilation windows, fastening straps and too-tense straps, or seams. Further excluded from the guarantee are deteriorations caused by exposure to violence and/or in the event of changes and/or independent refinement and/or misappropriation. Deformation of the material or abrasion of the material caused by friction are not covered by the guarantee. Other claims only apply if the cause is due to a construction fault or production fault. Damage, tears, holes and discolouring caused by contact with the floor are not covered by the guarantee."

Also its essential to have windows or some venting for circulation.

• [9]
  Products with window elements are exempt. The window material is flame retardant and dissolves in a controlled way in order to let breathable oxygen into tent in case of emergency.

Harsh, yes, but I'd be buying this one secondhand if I go for it, so there'd be no warranty.

He says that there are pin holes and I have asked how many and where.

Looking on that site, a search brings up no Clarke products at all.

Google is your friend https://www.google.com/search?q=cla...512j0i22i30.6169j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

As a tool brand, Clarke have been around for decades. If buying second hand there's often a few to choose from on eBay, GumTree and motorsport websites. Re' pin holes, these appear in the lower quality car tents as are made from thinner material than the Toolport tents - have had these in the past and they can be repaired using tent repair patches.

Thank you v8250.

Part of the problem is that I've been gone for decades.

I also see that most of these car tents "must be taken down in high winds?.

Unfortunately, I'm living in the Fens and high winds are a daily affair.

Army 12x12 better?

Okay, ignore the high wind stuff, that's just their get out of jail card. If a tent is installed correctly, ideally in a sheltered area, it will be fine. I've owned five car tents and never had a problem and never had to install storm guy ropes. The current tent sits on the driveway next to a high hedge that runs along full tent length...UK prevailing wind is mainly from the west so trick is to place front or rear facing west. The tent never moves, even in the strongest of storms. I have a neighbour with same tent sat in corner of his rear field, erected in similar east-west direction, it never moves.

A 12ft length may be too small and the important measurement is the front access height when driving into the tent.

I bought a Clarke and am returning it - HINT: DO NOT BUY FROM MACHINE MART

just the tub lift and I have managed to borrow a sizeable engine hoist, so I just need some shackles now.

v8250 said:

Use lrwprkshop diag's for good ref' + don't forget 1. rear crossmember upper screws, 2. wheel arch stays, 3. whatever is still attached to rear bulkhead, and 4. any other MOD extras that may be hidden https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-chassis/body

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the Wolf is significantly different, even the bracketry involved.
I have most of it out now, except one rear wing stay and the plates that enclose the rear lights.

Any tips for getting at those light access plates?

Wolf Pack said:

Any tips for getting at those light access plates?

Click to expand...

Pics?

Fuel filler has to come out and the stay is gone, but you can still barely see them:

Okay, drill out rivets if/when fitted. Unscrew any screws and/or small nuts&bolts. Take long flat blade screwdriver/flat blade scraper and prise off rear plate. You may find that they're a little tricky and have some form of seam sealer behind. Also, clean up the whole area before works starts...this stops of the road crap falling on you, up nose, in ears, down back of overalls

As per the pic, it's actually not bad up in there, it's just the access.
Getting the 4 fuel filler screws out will be a Dremel job and similarly will the 4 access plate screws.
I may end up lying on the floor if I can reach far enough.

Or sit on an upturned crate with a foam cushion. This raises body height to be quite comfortable when working in a Landy wheel arch. I prefer getting comfortable before starting a job like this...it's far less taxing/tiring and makes the work more pleasurable

I have a garden chair, which is great, but too high, but I also have a milking stool which may be the answer.
I have the loan of an engine hoist, but it arrived without oil, so I've bought a new plug from eBay and I'll attack it next weekend, hopefully with the tub up a few inches.
I'm not as able as I was once and getting down and/or under is one thing, but getting back up is quite another. #wrecked

Right then, it's off:

Tools required:
Crowbar, 1 ea.
Useful teenager, 1 ea.
Useless teenager, 1.ea
Gash pillows, 2 off.
Pallets, A/R.