Refurbing Propshafts.

Got both front and rear props for my 109 rebuild, to save some cash I am going to refurb them ,good rub down and paint and new UJs.
Anyway the bloody spring circlips are well and trully rusted in, no way they will move with pliers, had them soaking in wd40 ect but still wont move, snapped one which is going to make it even harder to get out.
Whats the best way to remove these dam things ?

Edge of chisel or small punch in the eye of the circlip, then tap them towards each other ie eye to eye.
Before doing anything check how much up and down play the sliding joint has, anything more than a knatts cock means its worn out and whole prop needs replacing.
If you have FWH fitted then play in front prop is not that important as most use will be slow speed, but rear prop with a worn slider causes loads of noise and rumbles on the over run.

Get 2 sockets one that will fit inside the circlip and one that doesn’t.
Put each 1 in and tap with ammer , wd and change sockets whack and repeat, change side each time. It won’t be long before the circling is loose.

J

Safety glasses on.. & as above,small chisel & hook screwdriver to lift them out

lynall said:

Edge of chisel or small punch in the eye of the circlip, then tap them towards each other ie eye to eye.
Before doing anything check how much up and down play the sliding joint has, anything more than a knatts cock means its worn out and whole prop needs replacing.
If you have FWH fitted then play in front prop is not that important as most use will be slow speed, but rear prop with a worn slider causes loads of noise and rumbles on the over run.

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They do slide in and out when putting pressure on . Do you mean feeling for free play before they slide ? if that makes sense.

border said:

They do slide in and out when putting pressure on . Do you mean feeling for free play before they slide ? if that makes sense.

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Rotational free play if any should be so small as to be almost inperceptible, if you can feel any then its on its way out, if no rotational play then stick some new u/js in it job done.

Once new ujs fitted see if the ends flop down on their own, if not give all the spider caps a tap with a copper hammer until they are all move nicely, this also helps the grease get around evenly, if you have one tight cap then the grease will exit the opposite two as the easy way out.
Bit of an art fitting new u/js/cups get it right and its a pleasure, get it wrong and you break a cup or bend a yoke, decent sized vice very helpful.

lynall said:

Rotational free play if any should be so small as to be almost inperceptible, if you can feel any then its on its way out, if no rotational play then stick some new u/js in it job done.

Once new ujs fitted see if the ends flop down on their own, if not give all the spider caps a tap with a copper hammer until they are all move nicely, this also helps the grease get around evenly, if you have one tight cap then the grease will exit the opposite two as the easy way out.
Bit of an art fitting new u/js/cups get it right and its a pleasure, get it wrong and you break a cup or bend a yoke, decent sized vice very helpful.

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Thanks used vice last time but just acquired a 12 ton shop press thingy so will give that a go. thats if I manage to get the bloody clips out first.

I would get the rust off first soaking with some brick acid for an hour or two, then the wd40 or similar then tap them round to get them moving before trying circlips
Got mine moving once circuits out with socket and hammer

steve2286w said:

I would get the rust off first soaking with some brick acid for an hour or two, then the wd40 or similar then tap them round to get them moving before trying circlips
Got mine moving once circuits out with socket and hammer

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Ive got a kiddies sand pit locked in a shed full of brick cleaner forgot about that, great stuff for rust will pop them in there over night,

Overnight might be a long time , after 2 hours it should be squeaky clean