P38 2.5DSE 96/97 Water pump

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synchro said:
I just cant remember the car being a bugger to achieve 50mph without pedal to the metal?
and isnt 95 celsius pretty hot for the car, when its 2 degrees outside?? Even with new radiator (the thin, modern core nissens) and viscousfan, and waterpump? (car is actually quieter on idle due to the new viscous)

EDIT REGARDING THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^

Previous temps were 95-96 and rising whilst heater matrix blasting full hot air, at 50MPH.
9 ambient (before rad, and viscous fan change)

Now temps are around 95 at cruising at 50mph (with heater matrix on highest heat setting, but fan only on 1. Ambient temp 2 celsius.

Note, this was my first run after bleeding the car.

It seems like whenever i brake, and before/mid cornering to drive off the main road the gauge spits up.
But the gauge does stay at red light at 50mp/h still, while nanocom reads 95-96 or heck even 88...

Question is, bad contact or duff sensor? I will investigate this tmw/ weekend, pulling intake off.
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Seems like i also get vibrations at 3000rpm when i try to reach 50mph....

The car have great take offs (for the engine and car we are speaking off...). Rpms goes fast up, but when i reach 60KM/H (37mph) (i think this is the ISH 50/50 should the gearbox gear up to 4th gear moment?

Now, the car has sat for a time, and i do know i have a slightly overfilled gearbox oil (previous owner actually overfilled)

I assume it might just be the gear oil which has taken early christmass and has gotten lazy?
Car basically feels like a huge lump of turd at the moment the 4th gear previously has enganged for me.

No issues getting up to 37mph.


_____________________________

I took 1 minute reading rave just now,

It seems that if my engine temperature rises, the FIP delivers a less quantity of diesel, so i assume my car is litterually choking, or getting to less diesel? This should also, if im not wrong cause a small vibration? (choking on fuel)
The question now is if FIP/fuel system goes by the gauge sensor or the ECM?

We probably all know from before, that cold start gives richer fuel mixture and hotter means less fuel (which is a bummer to people who need to re-time their FIP/mount a hotstart kit!)

, but is this is only effected on startup, or running??

My lift pump is dead, by the way..
Click to expand...
95C is within the normal running temperature range,
Nanocom volts are always lower than battery volts due to losses in the wiring.
At the battery your should have 14.7 volts engine running and no less then 12.6 volts an hour after turning off.
Less fuel does not = "choking on fuel" which would be the case with too much fuel. What is the modulation with the engine at 95C?
I think your gauge sensor is duff.
Over filled box on an auto is detrimental, should be checked engine cold and idling after shifting slowly through all gear positions.
 
Sorry @Datatek , i didnt mean choke. I ment starvation :rolleyes:

Anyhow, i changed the temp sensor today. Seems like its working atleast, (brown sensor) i havent road tested yet due to its leaking abit coolant out of it, where it threads in.

I just got the sensor, i didnt get any washer. And previous one didnt have a washer either. nor any "make it yourself gasket"

Its not like its sploshing out everywhere, its a bit drippage. Enough to need a small refill after a decent drive. So must be fixed.

Is it ment to be a washer on it? :confused: I did however got a washer for my other coolant temp sender (the ecu one), but it might perhaps be abit to small, dunno.

8NM torque on the sensor if im not wrong.

Atleast got the winter shoes on it!
Had to use a sledgehammer to get the front tires off!

By the way @Datatek someone on another forum have said that if the temp sensor for the gauge, makes the red overheat light come on, it does indeed go into limp mode. Dont know if this is true.. But believeable i guess...
 
synchro said:
Sorry @Datatek , i didnt mean choke. I ment starvation :rolleyes:

Anyhow, i changed the temp sensor today. Seems like its working atleast, (brown sensor) i havent road tested yet due to its leaking abit coolant out of it, where it threads in.

I just got the sensor, i didnt get any washer. And previous one didnt have a washer either. nor any "make it yourself gasket"

Its not like its sploshing out everywhere, its a bit drippage. Enough to need a small refill after a decent drive. So must be fixed.

Is it ment to be a washer on it? :confused: I did however got a washer for my other coolant temp sender (the ecu one), but it might perhaps be abit to small, dunno.

8NM torque on the sensor if im not wrong.

Atleast got the winter shoes on it!
Had to use a sledgehammer to get the front tires off!

By the way @Datatek someone on another forum have said that if the temp sensor for the gauge, makes the red overheat light come on, it does indeed go into limp mode. Dont know if this is true.. But believeable i guess...
Click to expand...
I would have to double check but I think the light is operated from the EDC sensor via the BECM. I will check if you want confirmation as I could be wrong.
 
I went into a limp mode when I overheated. Was engine not gearbox as I have a manual transmission.
The sensor should have a washer.
3F557612-0266-4C09-B680-C6D5DF9AB1DF.jpeg
 
Datatek said:
I would have to double check but I think the light is operated from the EDC sensor via the BECM. I will check if you want confirmation as I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

I am in no way doubting that your right. I just find it odd another person has said the light will throw it into limp mode, dosnt matter which sensor apparently. I do not know where he has gotten this information from.

I will look trough rave to see if it is actually a fact.
----------------------------------------------------------------

cheers @RangeRoller dt for the pictures

My gauge temp sensor were brown like yours, but without a washer :(

However my ecu sensor was transparent ish, but looks same as yours. smaller than the gauge sensor.
 
synchro said:
Sorry @Datatek , i didnt mean choke. I ment starvation :rolleyes:

Anyhow, i changed the temp sensor today. Seems like its working atleast, (brown sensor) i havent road tested yet due to its leaking abit coolant out of it, where it threads in.

I just got the sensor, i didnt get any washer. And previous one didnt have a washer either. nor any "make it yourself gasket"

Its not like its sploshing out everywhere, its a bit drippage. Enough to need a small refill after a decent drive. So must be fixed.

Is it ment to be a washer on it? :confused: I did however got a washer for my other coolant temp sender (the ecu one), but it might perhaps be abit to small, dunno.

8NM torque on the sensor if im not wrong.

Atleast got the winter shoes on it!
Had to use a sledgehammer to get the front tires off!

By the way @Datatek someone on another forum have said that if the temp sensor for the gauge, makes the red overheat light come on, it does indeed go into limp mode. Dont know if this is true.. But believeable i guess...
Click to expand...
We had an overheat climbing a mountain in italy, it did go into limp mode to reduce performance and heat!!!
 
Does anybody know the size of the washer? I got recommended a copper washer as it was more soft metal and would seal better.
But which size? :confused:
 
Ok i've done the sensor and washer now. IT ain't leakin :)

But its still fluctuating. I guess i got a cracked head?
Nanocom temp is ok tho so im confused. 96 celsius at most 2 ambient, casual driving. snow btw.. 60km/h+

I do have the hotstart kit, but if im not mistaken that should not affect the gauge sensor, as it is connected to the EDC sensor..?
The needle keeps itself at 12 o clock at idle at most idle temps whilst warmed up.
Usually stands right bellow the white marked before the red lights under running.

Drove 20km ish, went aigth but im quite sus on that needle..
Guess i gotta stare at the nanocom whilst driving in snow... Contact did not seem to be irred.
 
Why would you jump to suspecting a cracked head? If the EDC sensor gives a stable reading, then it's more likely to be an electrical problem in the gauge wiring, or even the gauge itself. You can to a gauge check with Nanocom.
 
Datatek said:
Why would you jump to suspecting a cracked head? If the EDC sensor gives a stable reading, then it's more likely to be an electrical problem in the gauge wiring, or even the gauge itself. You can to a gauge check with Nanocom.
Click to expand...

i dont know. I just find it odd that underload the gauge seems to fluctuate the most you know. It aint ever jumping around at idle..
the ecu and gauge sensor seem to be of a different thickness also, is the ecu sensor more precise?
 
synchro said:
i dont know. I just find it odd that underload the gauge seems to fluctuate the most you know. It aint ever jumping around at idle..
the ecu and gauge sensor seem to be of a different thickness also, is the ecu sensor more precise?
Click to expand...
The sensors are both negative coefficient resistors, I have never looked, but I doubt there is any difference in precision although the resistance value itself may be different. I would have to measure one of each with a DVM to find out the cold resistance and hot resistance.
 
Think they are both 19mm but different sensor size iirc.

As previously stated, if you think head is cracked (possible if you drive around in the red) get a sniff test for a fiver and test it.

Only time my hotstart played up it was difficult to start. Didn’t interfere with any gauges or give any clues other than extremely difficult to start when hot.

Do you think the gauge is giving a false reading or it is actually cooking hot?
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Think they are both 19mm but different sensor size iirc.

As previously stated, if you think head is cracked (possible if you drive around in the red) get a sniff test for a fiver and test it.

Only time my hotstart played up it was difficult to start. Didn’t interfere with any gauges or give any clues other than extremely difficult to start when hot.

Do you think the gauge is giving a false reading or it is actually cooking hot?
Click to expand...

Yes i think the gauge is giving false reading. AS the ecu temp shows operating temp fine i guess
Car running 85-96degrees all day to work-back home from work 35km each way. Gauge goes in red, stays in red for a period of time , drops down in 1 second, goes up in 1 second etc.
 
Last edited:
synchro said:
Yes i think the gauge is giving false reading. AS the ecu temp shows operating temp fine i guess
Car running 85-96degrees all day to work-back home from work 35km each way. Gauge goes in red, stays in red for a period of time , drops down in 1 second, goes up in 1 second etc.
Click to expand...
Has to be an electrical fault, corroded connector or faulty gauge.
 
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