D2 Chassis Advice (photos)

If the price is right along with the rest of the truck & the fact it's had no advisories you should be ok. (you can get a rear quarter done for £500-600 cheaper if you can DIY so it's not the end of the world if it wants doing in a year or two). Just check for stained headlining indicating water leaks (if it hasn't got sunroofs that's a massive bonus) & that ALL the electrics work esp. locking/unlocking, if it's a TD5, exhaust manifold studs are intact, best of luck.

Adam90 said:

So, some advice on one I’ve just viewed. Mechanically, it’s is extremely good. The rear chassis has some what appears to be very old under seal on, which has either cracked, or the chassis has. The areas where the under seal has flaked off (not many), or the bits a peeled off looks solid. But, would you be concerned about the attached photos. It looks to me like thick undersell that’s cracked, but I’m not expert.

Click to expand...

Run!

Adam90 said:

It’s a gs, so not top of range and it’s fairly priced. He had no issues at all with me underneath, and I peeled a few bits off that I could and underneath what I could get off was fine, surface rust if anything, but no flaky bits at all. It’s never had an advisory for chassis on MoT, and has recently passed with no chassis advisory.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you are happy then!

Andy Warren said:

If the price is right along with the rest of the truck & the fact it's had no advisories you should be ok. (you can get a rear quarter done for £500-600 cheaper if you can DIY so it's not the end of the world if it wants doing in a year or two). Just check for stained headlining indicating water leaks (if it hasn't got sunroofs that's a massive bonus) & that ALL the electrics work esp. locking/unlocking, if it's a TD5, exhaust manifold studs are intact, best of luck.

Click to expand...

+1 on all that, especially the manifold. If it aint been done I'd take it off and grind away all the webbing, then get it checked for true and if not get it ground flat before putting it back on. World of pain if it warps!! Been there got the overalls!!
Also mine is a GS too and has air-con. Check it is working afore discussing price. Auto or manual?

OK taking into account the 1 mm of steel = 10 mm rust, the as they say get at it with a hammer and screwdriver

So I walked away. He was happy with me underneath, but he wasn’t too happy with me starting to poke around in detail. A few odd comments were made which started to ring some alarm bells, so I thought best to start the hunt again!

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Adam90 said:

So I walked away. He was happy with me underneath, but he wasn’t too happy with me starting to poke around in detail. A few odd comments were made which started to ring some alarm bells, so I thought best to start the hunt again!

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Click to expand...

Probably for the best. Two ways of buying a vehicle - either all new, or second hand, and buy the new bits as required .... the trick is finding the middle ground at the right price IME... a D2 with a rotten chassis is fine, provided the initial price reflects the cost of the chassis replacement - in fact it can be a good way of getting a good vehicle because, it seems, in the modern world, most sheeple don't want the perceived "hassle" - and, again, IME, it getting very uncool to repair stuff ....

Best finding out before you part with the cash.... Too many people pass on a rotten as a pear vehicle, without a care for the next owner. Buyer Beware.