What have you done to your Freelander today

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An excellent achievement getting that sorted Nodge. Good photos for the rest of us to look at too! It makes the FL1 engine bay look cavernous.
 
Got him (FL1) company, a big brother. Disco II from 2000. TD5 manual. Has the cdl but no lever in the cabin. This will become a two person camper.
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Over here the D2 body remains solid, it's the back half of the chassis that crumbles, as for the D1 body; our 300tdi had more of my welding than Solihull's welding on it's bodyby the time we parted company, so aye, stance should be Ok with a d2 since he's checked the chassis.
 
Did the dreaded oil filter today what a PITA was going to be lazy but local indi wanted £144 plus vat for oil and filter change also replace air filter and pollen filter another triumph of engineering for landrover designers fuel filter next and auto box oil change unless it snows
Stay safe
 
Yep, LR & probably others are not concerned with ease of maintenance for the home owner they just expect you to take it to your local friendly dealer.
 
Did the dreaded oil filter today what a PITA was going to be lazy but local indi wanted £144 plus vat for oil and filter change also replace air filter and pollen filter another triumph of engineering for landrover designers fuel filter next and auto box oil change unless it snows
Stay safe
To be fair, LR simply bought the engine in from PSA, so had to make do with the rather awkward oil filter placing. If they'd been owned by BMW, then the filter would have been easier to get at, but alas the French engine designers didn't think oil filter access was important, so it went at the bottom of the block, which is rather inconvenient, especially in the FL2 engine bay. :(
 
Today I prolongide the life of my freel2 sills (Is that how you call them in english?).
Not fully rusted away, but since winter is coming, i thought that i should have a look. And rust there was!
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Although it is very tempting to just buy some ''magic rust stopper'' that claims to stop rust from spreading, the truth is that NOTHING will stop rust if the process has started. So what i did - Spent a few hours grinding the old rust off, then putting an epoxy primer with orthophosphoric acid in it. Waited for it to react and repeated the process. Here in this picture you can see treated metal (right side) and untouched rust).

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After that - some acid primer

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And in the end some anti-gravel material. Also sprayed a lot of anti-rust silicone inside the holes as well as on the anti-gravel.

Should last a few years.
 
I must admit that my FL2 has more rust than the 3½ years older FL1 it replaced.
Not bad rust, but definitely more rust, in stranger places too, which is odd. :confused:
Right!
and it appears that there are no repair plates out there which could be welded in (rear arches for example). My front wheelarches are gone, so im buying those new somewhen. There is also some rust on inner part of rear arches, and since you cant replace them, I will try to fix them. Previous owner has done an undercoat, so no rust is visible under the car, but taking into account the fact that car is 2008 and undercoating was done in 2014, im pretty sure it was just sprayed over rust. Now I have to decide on whether i should brush all the car till bare metal and do a proper undercoat or leave it as it is.
 
Ah bum. Could have saved a few £s. Don't want to pester you too much though Nodge

I don't mine being pestered.
I've actually got a suspected injector issue on my FL2, as it's getting a bit spluttery when starting first thing in the morning, and when I leave work, along with a quick puff of white smoke, so I think an injector is draining down while it's not running. I'm currently thinking about how to work out which injector it is, as I don't want to be pulling them out and guessing, due to the hassle reprogramming the ECM every time an injector is replaced.
 
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