Possible oil pump for dif oils etc

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These oil pumps that "pump out" oils are a no-no. All oils should be drained from engine/gearbox/diffs etc., to allow all metal particles toto be thoroughly drained before new oil added. There's many a modern car main dealer that suck out oils leaving far too much crud in bottom of sump resulting in aged crud working through the engine, gears and bearings...with onslaught of premature component wear. "When in doubt, drain it out..."
 
These oil pumps that "pump out" oils are a no-no. All oils should be drained from engine/gearbox/diffs etc., to allow all metal particles toto be thoroughly drained before new oil added. There's many a modern car main dealer that suck out oils leaving far too much crud in bottom of sump resulting in aged crud working through the engine, gears and bearings...with onslaught of premature component wear. "When in doubt, drain it out..."
In essence I agree, but I wonder how many dealers/maintainers drop the pan and scrub it clean as opposed to just waiting for the drips to stop from the drain plug?
Some sump pans effectively have "wells/webbing" in them lower than the actual drain plug so unless you take the pan off the crud/bits remains maybe?
I doubt that there is a definitive guide on this, but this guy uses a vacuum pump and then pulls the drain plug and "nothing" comes out.
 
Sump removal only usually happens if there's been an issue requiring it.

Those I have removed on our own cars have to date revealed absolutely nothing that has caused me concern - even those with magnetic drain plugs which have only had the very fine particles stuck to them.

Haven't yet owned a vehicle without a drain plug so always drain by plug removal. Apart from my BSA A10 which required the removal of the bottom cover to drain & the main issue was the 4 tiny studs made of chocolate that held it on shearing. Solved that by fitting a very nice ally one with a proper drain plug.

I have used tubing to remove excess oil after filling but as a syphon. Takes ages but beats having to take the sump plug out again with the usual flood no matter how carefully I've tried to do it :)

Main issue with a lot of the suction drainers is the small bore of the hose that goes into the sump restricting the flow.
 
I was only thinking for filling, not draining. Totally agree about getting the crud out by draining and I have magnetic plugs to help remove as much as possible. My thoughts were filling the items that are difficult to do by pouring due to the filler location - I currently use a garden sprayer. If I get one I would hope to use a big bore pipe on inlet and discharge (shorter lengths too) as this may increase flow rate.
 
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In essence I agree, but I wonder how many dealers/maintainers drop the pan and scrub it clean as opposed to just waiting for the drips to stop from the drain plug?
Some sump pans effectively have "wells/webbing" in them lower than the actual drain plug so unless you take the pan off the crud/bits remains maybe?
I doubt that there is a definitive guide on this, but this guy uses a vacuum pump and then pulls the drain plug and "nothing" comes out.

ANY mechanic worth dealing with will drain fluids as directed, out of the drain plug. Every mechanic i've dealt with start with draining the oil and then while it's draining change the filters and get on with other work. If i found my mechanic was sucking it out through the dipstick tube he'd be verbally abused and have his biscuit ration reduced with a further threat of having it stopped!

I believe the Smart car has no drain plug as they believe the oil should last the life of the engine...
First class F*CKWITTERY!
 
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