I love it.

4 good axle stands sounds like a good plan.
A garage had to be used. The amount of welding, fabrication and paint need is simply beyond me and my skill level. Brake pipes also are beyond me. Given the fuel tank had to come of or be dropped that means a proper lift. Cv joints were sized in the axles and required time. Same with the front ball joints. If I had tried to all of this well I would have to give up my job and train as a car mechanic, welder, fabricator and painter. The cost in tools alone would be enormous us I don't have a driveway or any where to work o it till we move later this year. The car was in bad way and it could not wait. There has been 100+ man hours of work on this car. So yes I paid a garage and body shop to do it.

The sub frames I can do though. What are your thoughts on a soda blaster. That could be quicker. Is there any reason not to use one.

There is literally no point in stopping now till its perfect. I will sort out an agreed valuation with the insurance company on Monday.

I think me and my wife can tackle the headlining. That should come out of the rear hatch. Given we will have a driveway soon this become possible. I might need some advise on how to drop it and get it out.

Lastly there is an issue with the drivers heated seat in that pressing the required button does nothing. The light for the heater comes on then goes off. What the best way of trouble shooting this. These are the sort of non urgent problems I don't mind tackling myself.

If same as a P38, then the seat can be fixed quite easily. Usually causwd by a broken wire on the seat bit. There is a "how to" in tech section I think

oakey said:

If same as a P38, then the seat can be fixed quite easily. Usually causwd by a broken wire on the seat bit. There is a "how to" in tech section I think

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You can get carbon fibre heating pads for not a lot of money from the Bay the plugs will probably have to be changed,as already posted it's usually the seat base element that gives up .

O.k how do I confirm this. Don't tell me, diagnostics. Surely a multimeter would help.

Can the heated seat elements and plugs be accessed by stripping down the seat from the back. If so there must only be two wires feeding each heating pad. They either have continuity or not.

Plugs are under seat

So it is seat out to investigate? I can't find the guide in the techie zone.

Yes seat out unless you have long thin arms
May have been a thread

Bugger.

Agarange said:

Bugger.

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The P38's are accessible with the seat in place, progress or what.

tomcat59alan said:

That'll make a change, not even a grunt or two? You don't have to say you love Mrs Palm and her five lovely daughters.

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Touche mon ami

Anyway soda blaster for sub frames. Good idea or a very silly one.

Agarange said:

Anyway soda blaster for sub frames. Good idea or a very silly one.

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Sounds like a good idea to me if you've got them out.

The sub frames are too heavy to remove while on axle stands. I gut says you really need the car on a lift and the back sub frame in particular would need to be lowered gently hense further support. They won't be easy to remove bolts are bound to break. I want to do this while everything is mounted to the car. If they have to come off a proper mechanic can do that.

gold rover said:

This thread confuses me. I do virtually no work myself. Not even diagnostics at the moment. However, after 11yrs, I am seriously considering a diagnostics system.
Those on this site have been invaluable for bouncing thoughts and ideas off. I have gained massive insights into the L322 , (I have now owned for 11yrs), from the wealth of knowledge, trials and tribulations, we have shared as L322 owners. I have been derided for paying others to do the work, but have never ( unlike the comment above) snottily looked down on home mechanics. Instead, I have been grateful for their insight
So I will never, ever, understand someone throwing a strop, (nor the burning bridges comments made before he realised he will, sooner rather than later, need help and did the edit), because people tried to help him with his old Range Rover.
Maybe he will take your advice on board, maybe not, at least the advice is there

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Well said GR, like you I rarely mess with cars anymore because (a) in retirement I don't do many miles annually (b) the four RRC's I've owned over the past 20 years have been as reliable as any car in the same age/condition (c) there is a garage within 10 mins. walk from home that I've used for several years.
The advice received from LZ members has always been a great help by giving me an insight to any problem & enabled me to offer opinions to others on faults that I have experienced, even if I haven't fixed it myself.

Lets hear it for Landyzone, the wealth of experience on here could fill a library

RangeRoller dt said:

You still got both of yours?

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Yep, 2 running P38's plus the scrapper. Both have door lock problems, drivers on the RHD, passenger on LHD.

Agarange said:

The sub frames are too heavy to remove while on axle stands. I gut says you really need the car on a lift and the back sub frame in particular would need to be lowered gently hense further support. They won't be easy to remove bolts are bound to break. I want to do this while everything is mounted to the car. If they have to come off a proper mechanic can do that.

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The only issue is where the dust goes. It is abrasive and gets absolutely everywhere. Get it in a moving part and that won't be fun.

Wire brush it is then.

The door shut rust is now gone. New sill metal jacking point e.t.c. no rust now in the cars body. New tailgate and the spare wheel wheel has had some treatment. I won't say how much it cost me but so long as nothing major goes wrong soon it will be worth it.



remove duplicates from text file

that is a very nice looking motor

Thanks.

Any thoughts on tyres for winter/wet weather. The wheels on it need a refurb and new tyres. It has the budgets on it I bought it with. These can get some nice summer tyres next year.

However winters coming.

New wheels needed and something smaller probably 19" but which tyres? Generally over winter I always switch to winter tyres. I have been using pirellis on the e34. However is there anything better for this car. Something that gives excellent wet grip grip on muddy lanes and can cope with the cold and snow.

I love the smell of Isopon P40 in the morning
Neat enough job, hope you've had the repaired cavities wax injected?

My first was Epsom green anol.