P38A BeCM lockout and other gremlins

Hi all you clever lot.
Looking for some assistance
I have recently got a 2000 P38a 2.5dhse. High mileage but mechanically good, electrically not so.
A previous owner has fitted an isolator, I assume to combat battery drain/alarm issues. I have one key, and the remote fob is goosed. I have spurious locking unlocking when driving, and occasionally when parked up with isolator on. I've had the immobiliser cut in a couple times, but got going with the EKA. But this time it seems to have locked itself out. Not recognising the EKA, I have checked the door latch switches and the switches are all operating as they should. Could anyone recommend someone who can unlock a BeCM and function test it?
I have numerous niggles which appear to come from the BeCM, rear wiper not working, electric seats not working and couple other which escape me just now.
No big rush, it's primarily a farm truck/2nd car and I'm away at sea for a couple weeks tomorrow.

Any help, recommendations or pointers appreciated

@Rick-the-Pick on here is the BECM guru. I think what you have is either spurious RF interference or an issue with the lock ground, either due to a dodgy microswitch (try a load instead of DVM) or possibly the tailgate switch need a dose of looking at. Possibly a mix of both. @martyuk also is good with BECMs but don't think he's back from NZ yet.

Ahh yes tailgate switch, that's another one that could be temperamental. How's that affect the central locking or immobiliser? Never had a tailgate open warning on the dash, unless it actually was open.

Get yourself a Nanocom, it will save you money & time sorting the problems.

Spurious locking/unlocking is the door switch knackered.
Could also affect the recognition of EKA

oakey said:

Spurious locking/unlocking is the door switch knackered.
Could also affect the recognition of EKA

Click to expand...

Plus 1 to that

Here is martyuk`s door lock test sheet, if it loads ok

the tailgate latch earths though the drivers door lock

Buy a replacement case, buttons & batteries and insert your PCB. If you're not confident in doing that, send the Fob for repair / refurb. Then re-instate the RF receiver and get things working properly. If can has the older receiver versions and you suffer from RF interference, then unplug the antenna. The fob will still work, but only next to left rear window !!

Regular battery disconnect can often cause BECM & ECU out of sync, but they should re-sync automatically if using the fob. Do you always leave door open & key out before switching the isolator ?

Best thing is to resolve the battery drain, and then you could leave it for weeks with no issues.

Think its the driver's side rear window?

Yep drivers rear window just above the filler flap.

I'll put my money on the door lock, especially if the fob doesn't work and the key has been used a lot.

Thanks for all the advice, will be giving it a good dose of looking at when I get home in a couple weeks.
Have followed Marty's test sheet, and while its damp and worn, the door latch seems ok. Will check out the tailgate switch when home again. Worth a look, as every time it has locked out, the boot has been playing up for a few days, now its totally locked out the only doors I can open are the boot and drivers.
Would like to get rid of the isolator, and get it working properly again. The Mrs is amiable to spending a bit of money on it, cos it makes for a nice comfy farm truck when it works, and we can rid of her little thing.
Is Marty the same Marty that does http://p38webshop.co.uk/ ? If so, I've already emailed him about unlocking the BeCM.

If Marty is out and about https://callrova.com/ is another option

Give Les at Classic Rides North Wales a call. Very helpful, always got time for a chat and can help you out with BeCM repairs, keys, fobs etc. I speak from experience.

Just got back so bear with me I'm knackered, have you checked the block connectors at the bottom of the A posts behind the plastic kick panels these corrode and cause all sorts of problems, cutting them out soldering and heat shrink the wires is the best option..I thought it was an old thread when I saw @Datatek had posted, welcome back Keith.

tomcat59alan said:

Just got back so bear with me I'm knackered, have you checked the block connectors at the bottom of the A posts behind the plastic kick panels these corrode and cause all sorts of problems, cutting them out soldering and heat shrink the wires is the best option..I thought it was an old thread when I saw @Datatek had posted, welcome back Keith.

Click to expand...

Thanks Alan, hope you are keeping well. House renovations finally finished, so I have a bit more time. Just all the logs to cut for winter.

Datatek lives : o) Welcome back...

Nice to see you back data and you Alan hope you ad a good break

pete12345 said:

Nice to see you back data and you Alan hope you ad a good break

Click to expand...

Thanks Pete,hard work with temperatures in the mid thirties , getting too old for graft.

Thanks for all the help, heard from Marty, he's out the country at the moment, have been in contact with callrova, and crnw. Waiting for an opportunity to get the BeCM and Ecu out the truck, had a couple job interviews as soon as I got home, and now I'm free to attack it, it's been chucking it down and the truck is outside hopefully get at it at the weekend.