Heater matrix.
- Thread starter nobber
- Start date
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The 'new' ones are a different size to the 'old' ....
I repaired my box, changed the resistor (so min setting actually blows), replaced all the seals, took the lower dash plenum apart and made sure it was sealed etc and it's >40 Million times better.
I repaired my box, changed the resistor (so min setting actually blows), replaced all the seals, took the lower dash plenum apart and made sure it was sealed etc and it's >40 Million times better.
How did you get the matrix in? it looks totally different.
Hicap phill
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Plus you need to change the hoses
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I didn't. I sent it back and used the old brass one. That was my point to the OP. The old brass one is fine. It works well if the rest of the box and the fan is good.
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Plus you need to change the hoses
... or the output pipes. On the 300tdi engines you want the straight out types rather than the bendovers .... (as fitted to the later NA's and the early 200's) I cut off the bend and solderd in a length of std 13mm (1/2") copper water pipe with an olive at the end.
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Reseal the 'cabinet' with the sticky draught seal for windows, the old foam stuff just scrapes off ...
Zed.
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The Big K kettle descaler is good, cleaned out a few rads with it, but whatever you have at hand should do the job, vinegar, brick acid etc.
. On brass?
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Sensible people use citric acid ...
Used the brick acid (weakish solution!) only the other month on two boat engines as the coolant was getting furred up so bad the calorfier was blocked with sludge, so thats aluminium/brass/copper/steel and gawd knows what else.
Though if it was literally only 2 maybe 3 minutes max, laods of snot came out and it is now as clean as a whistle.
I read about it a few years ago with quite a few people doing it on boat engines, some using it to get the barnacles off the hull, and others using it to clean the raw water sea cooling system heat exchangers, again loads brass/copper/alloy etc.
