2001 p38

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No the key I have works in the ignition and glove box.

I do not have a key for the door lock hence I can't go through the eka manual procedure.

I was thinking of buying another door lock that comes with a key and an ignition barrel and getting the key synced if that would work ?
 
My existing key which starts the car and fits in the glove box does not open the door lock so I can't input the manual eka procedure. That's why I was thinking of buying a new door lock with the key and an ignition if that would work.?
 
My existing key which starts the car and fits in the glove box does not open the door lock so I can't input the manual eka procedure. That's why I was thinking of buying a new door lock with the key and an ignition if that would work.?
You will only need the door handle and lock, forget the ignition,just means you will have two keys. I think I have a handle and key in the garage.;)
 
No, I wish, the rac picked it up and took it to the garage and its been there since
Normal garages dont understand P38's For one thing special diagnostics are required for P38s the OBDII readers that most garages have won't work properly with the car. Also the security system on P28s is rather enthusiastic at immobilising the car.
All the electrics need to be working properly and also it helps to have a good battery The computers like to have plenty of volts I have found.
I have had two P38s and they have both immobilised them selves at least once each. It has always been down to the central locking system.
Does your central locking work? They also have a super lock. If it super locks you will have fun!
The BCM needs a signal from the drivers door lock to tell it that the car is unlocked if it does not get this and you try to start the car it will just refuse
 
This is how to enter the EKA IF your doorlock key switches are working properly.

Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked (clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked (anti-clockwise) direction and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom to re-mobilise the engine.

Oh... and if you know you got lost or screwed the procedure up. Open the door and close it again to prevent the 30 minute timer lockout between attempts.
 
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Cheers, I know about the battery, I have a new one ready to go, the central locking does work so where do I go from here ? I appreciate your help
Look what I found.
 

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You could remove the door handle remove all the barrel bits ,then fit it back on ,,,,U could then open it with a rusty spoon ,and put the eka code in AND u could lock it ,:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:..:D
 
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