What have you done to your Freelander today

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It's probably the short overhang at the front to give a good attack angle.

Very likely Ali. This phenomenon only seems to effect LRs. The CX5 doesn't splash the screen much, nor did the Kuga before, or the Tiguan before that.

Having driven FL1s for a long time, it always amazed me just how much water hits the screen, when deep puddles are driven through at speed.

The first time I went through a regular flood point in my D3, I was shocked at just how much water could become airborne, before being deposited on the screen. I was literally blind for a few seconds, while the wipers decided to sort themselves out. I think it's a combination of wide tyres and huge weight displacing large amounts of water in a forwards direction coupled with short front overhang, allowing the water to be launched in a direction, that the windscreen then travels through.
This is my theory, which would explain why the FL2 and to a slightly lesser extent the FL1, also suffer this interesting and fun phenomenon.
 
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It's probably the short overhang at the front to give a good attack angle.
The tratter guys reckon 100" is the ideal wheelbase, hence all the discoveries / range rovers pressed into service, and some defender hybrids based on RRC chassis'. The D1 / RRC has long rear overhangs, the D2 even more so, however the FL1 has a 102" wheelbase which is close to the ideal, but FL1's got naff all overhangs, so with some mild lift mods the hippo gets some ridiculous approach / departure angles. This caused me so much bother when we first got our hippo as I was looking at saxo sixed parking spaces thinking I'd be able to shoehorn the hippo in there, and wondering why I was failing? It wasn't until I parked at a supermarket one time and when I came back to the landy a D1 had parked side by side wiht my hippo I could pace them out and realised that there wasn't much difference in them, .

One of the best things about the FL1 though is it's windscreen is much more curved / lot less flat than most other landies, so it clears a but quicker than the others do. It's also got a taller windscreen that many of the others, so your vertical field of vision is a lot wider, meaning it's easier to look "up" whether it be looking "ahead" while on a steep descent or looking up at the scenery / terrain, of course that means in winter there is virtually no hiding from the low sun dazzling you, where as in likes of a D1 to sit bolt upright to put the sun behind the roof. FL1's are also good in deep puddles because they are a lot more watertight than other landy models, and they also benefit from the fact their sills are raised above the floorpan, whereas in a D1 / RRC / D2 the floorpan is above the top of the sills.

I think the FL1 kicks up more water than other landies based on my experience of splashing about with them. It's my reckoning that this is because it's underside is relatively smooth it displaces more of the water than a live axled landy which has deep chassis rails that must act like longitudinal baffles retain water between them and at the outsides the underslung door sills must act like skirts to retain water? Also,more importantly in terms of water getting on to the screen, the F1's enginebay is relatively enclosed, with its undertray and arch liners etc, whereas the life axled models are a lot more exposed, so some of the water that would erstwhile have been pusched through the engine bay gets thrown out up and to the sides.
 
The tratter guys reckon 100" is the ideal wheelbase, hence all the discoveries / range rovers pressed into service, and some defender hybrids based on RRC chassis'. The D1 / RRC has long rear overhangs, the D2 even more so, however the FL1 has a 102" wheelbase which is close to the ideal, but FL1's got naff all overhangs, so with some mild lift mods the hippo gets some ridiculous approach / departure angles. This caused me so much bother when we first got our hippo as I was looking at saxo sixed parking spaces thinking I'd be able to shoehorn the hippo in there, and wondering why I was failing? It wasn't until I parked at a supermarket one time and when I came back to the landy a D1 had parked side by side wiht my hippo I could pace them out and realised that there wasn't much difference in them, .

One of the best things about the FL1 though is it's windscreen is much more curved / lot less flat than most other landies, so it clears a but quicker than the others do. It's also got a taller windscreen that many of the others, so your vertical field of vision is a lot wider, meaning it's easier to look "up" whether it be looking "ahead" while on a steep descent or looking up at the scenery / terrain, of course that means in winter there is virtually no hiding from the low sun dazzling you, where as in likes of a D1 to sit bolt upright to put the sun behind the roof. FL1's are also good in deep puddles because they are a lot more watertight than other landy models, and they also benefit from the fact their sills are raised above the floorpan, whereas in a D1 / RRC / D2 the floorpan is above the top of the sills.

I think the FL1 kicks up more water than other landies based on my experience of splashing about with them. It's my reckoning that this is because it's underside is relatively smooth it displaces more of the water than a live axled landy which has deep chassis rails that must act like longitudinal baffles retain water between them and at the outsides the underslung door sills must act like skirts to retain water? Also,more importantly in terms of water getting on to the screen, the F1's enginebay is relatively enclosed, with its undertray and arch liners etc, whereas the life axled models are a lot more exposed, so some of the water that would erstwhile have been pusched through the engine bay gets thrown out up and to the sides.
With all this talk of water distribution from Landies, I often find myself wondering what oncoming or following drivers think when the spray deluge occurs as I'm scrabbling for full wiper speed. I'd love to time it just right to see one coming the other way to find out.
 
I'm scrabbling for full wiper speed.
One advantage of the simple wiper switch on the FL1, is the wipers start instantly, when the switch is moved.
Annoyingly the FL2 isn't instant, as the switch (or rain sensor) go though the CJB, which takes a few milliseconds to respond, so the wipers don't clear the screen as quickly as they would in an FL1.
The slight delay seems to effect everything on the vehicle, even the interior lights, which come on delayed when the light button is pressed.
 
Today I used my FL2 to get a second hand tow bar, for itself. I had to remove it from the vehicle, but it gave me a insight as to what was required to fit it. I read someone on another forum had taken 8 hours to fit a tow bar to his FL2, but I managed to remove this one in under an hour, which included dealing with some rusted screws.
I paid £35 for the tow bar, complete with the LR harness, and towing module, which was ok by me.
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There was also a parcel shelf available, and I took the PDC sensors, and module, as there's an issue with mine. I paid £25 for those things, so I was happy.
 
cleaned out the intake manifold
replaced m.a.p. sensor ..
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replaced the turbo vacuum solenoid
'n checked vac. hoses ..
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checked turbo actuator for movement ..
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[ 'cause sensor 'n solenoid both be 15yr old
[ and i'm still chasing a performance issue .. ;-/

a.t.b.
`s`
 
Today I've added a couple of additional piggy back fuses... Front for dash cam without using cigarette lighter

Plus one in boot fir passengers

Added the rear can as part of dash cam.. Was in. Old car till yesterday
 
First drive to work and back in my new V6 petrol FL2 Picked her up the weekend, and spent about 12 hours cleaning the interior! Just trawling eBay for all the little bits of trim that need replacing, very excited
 

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First drive to work and back in my new V6 petrol FL2 Picked her up the weekend, and spent about 12 hours cleaning the interior! Just trawling eBay for all the little bits of trim that need replacing, very excited
If it's the 6 cylinder FL2 then it's an i6 as all the cylinders are in one row.
 
I've not done a great deal to mine recently other than to potter about in it :)

Thinking of a remap for the MEMS3 - not for top end power, but for a little more torque and drivability that is often a side-effect of these modifications. Anyone else had a K-series FL1 re-mapped?

Also giving serious thought to a 40mm Muddy Mods lift - especially after seeing the PowerfulUK boys take their FL2 off road and managing the Bristol off-road club's step section...
 
Anyone else had a K-series FL1 re-mapped?
Not done it, but it can't hurt can it. ;)
Also giving serious thought to a 40mm Muddy Mods lift - especially after seeing the PowerfulUK boys take their FL2 off road and managing the Bristol off-road club's step section...
The standard FL2 would cope with that ok too.
They went a bit fast for my liking in some places, but it did show that the FL2 isn't your average soft roader, just as the FL1 isn't either.
 
Been servicing mine usual stuff but decided to replace the eng. breather with a complete kit rather than just the filter as it always seems to have oil mist at the back. I was a bit disappointed with the fit of the Meyer housing as one of the screws wouldn't quite line up with the brass inserts in the valve cover but got there in the end. IRD oil came out nice & clean, done about 15,000 since last change.
Still got fr. pads, auto box oil, lower g/box tie bush & hand brake to adjust but as it's now raining I'm going down the pub where I can't get wet:) the rest can wait till tomorrow.
Have a good weekend all.
 

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Took the front wheels off and gave the drop links a wiggle, or rather I didn't and they were solid. Must be the wishbone instead then.
Little peek at the back right to find that the brake pedal has a new function as a manual water feature.. I agree, fluid looks way better all over the drive. New boot kit then.

Fantastic
 
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