What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?

Sorted the rear screen washer at last.

There was power to and from the switch but the pump feed was dead. The connector in the o/s rear quarter panel where the loom appears was ok but no power when washer button pushed.

Earlier I had noticed a bulge in the loom wrapped in tape under the rear cross member. Unwrapped some of it to find the bulge was the loom joined together with crimped butt connectors.*** Found the green/black feed for the pump and it was loose in the butt connector so cut, solder and heat shrink a new one on and hey presto pump works.

The nozzle had no tuning attached and managed to get the tubing down through the door frame using a long piece of stiff wire as a pusher! So now we have a functioning rear wiper and washer pump.

***Before I bought it the PO said it had had a new rear crossmember a few years before; I guess they just cut the loom and rejoined it rather than doing it properly

Broke a bumper bolt
3 came out (with loads of WD40) - 1 didn't. Broke flush with the top of the retaining plate thing
Now trying to destroy the plate with a chisel (I have new ones) to get it out!

Started the installation of a Hawk remote CDL and alarm kit to my 90.
Passenger door today. Being an 1985 model with lift up door handles there was not as much room for the actuator as there is in the push button handle doors. Also the locks are the early rare Santana type which have a slightly different mechanism than the later ones.
Got it in after a bit of trial and error and it works the latch correctly even though there is very little room. The window misses the actuator by a hair's breadth.
Will do the driver's door tomorrow with the master actuator and with luck get the CDL wiring installed. Might be an issue as the drivers door doesn't have the push rod from the door button but I'm sure bit of stiff wire rod will work.

@capo
Stiff wire & remove the spring

Well done, looks a useful mod. And whatever you do don't try cutting the rust out.

frog hopper said:

Well done, looks a useful mod. And whatever you do don't try cutting the rust out.

Click to expand...

Tired of fumbling with different keys especially when dealing with granddaughter or shopping. The locks are the old 'Santana' type and getting a matching set of barrels is next to impossible so I though CDL might be worth the effort. MrsC thought an alarm would be good so got me a Hawk one that links directly with the Hawk CDL. All very 20th century now

I will wire brush the rust and dab some Kurust on but if I cut it out the door might disintegrate! It's in better condition than the driver's door where the bottom rail is very worn Got the wiring layout sorted but actually routing it and hiding the wiring will be interesting. Ditto the alarm,

fixed horn, sorted wipers park switch, fitted the new column switches I had bought and a steering wheel...(feels strange being not worn to 2/3rds thickness and now bonded to the inner bit) new track roads and through its MOT

frog hopper said:

Well done, looks a useful mod. And whatever you do don't try cutting the rust out.

Click to expand...

Looking at the picture makes me not want to cut the rust out of my door frames either!

Continued with the CDL fitting.

The driver's door didn't have the push rod from the top of the door, it's the old style with an elongated mushroom push button (parts 14-16)

I was going to make one from some rod then realised that I didn't actually need the push buttons as the fob would lock the doors when inside if required.

So I went back to the passenger door, undid the actuator rod from the push button rod and turned the rod around so it pointed down rather than up and secured the actuator rod back on.

For the drivers door I bent one of the rods supplied (one end has a 90 degree mushroomed end) to the shape of the passenger side one and fed it through the hole so that the mushroom end was in the hole, again pointing down and secured it to the actuator rod.

Before putting the door cards and furniture back on I connected the actuator wires to the CDL loom, and connected it to a fused perm live and an earth.
It worked!!! Doors lock and unlock at the touch of button.

I had a couple of these to help protect the door wires and fed the the rest of the loom up and behind the dash with the control unit.

Quite a lot of effort and fiddling with wiring (I had to extend the driver's door loom as the kit seems to be biassed to the passenger side) but it's nice not to have to fumble with little keys, one for the driver one for the passenger one for the safari door! I don't intend to do the safari door as I rarely use it, more a boot than a regular entrance. Probably worth having another way in should the battery go flat and the actuators won't fire up!

Fitted a LOF clutch pedal spring and the pedal over-locks, so thought I would adjust the bump stop in the engine bay. But the bump stop doesn’t contact with the clutch pedal? So I think I will strip down and change the master cylinder (needs doing anyway) and check out the inside of the clutch pedal assembly. While I’m at it I may as well change the clutch slave cylinder. Does anyone know the part number for a R380 gearbox 56A suffix J? Ta in advance

Removed the spare wheel carrier from the back door.
Changed the rear door hinges for Optimill ones (well, the top 2 so far. The bottom one is a faf so I'll do that when I've got someone to help).
The rear door now closes properly! So much quieter!

And finally, finished the CDL installation

Wires from doors routed through rubber conduits; the conduit for the passenger door needs a bit of tweaking as it got a kink

Then wires in flexi tubing tucked behind a handy rail beneath the dash, all secured with heavy duty duct tape.

I was going to put the control module in the fuse box but the cover needs some fettling so for now I stuck it to the panel adjacent to the fuse box.
Live connected to the USB feed (former cigar lighter) in the fuse box and earthed to the fuse box base plate earth connection. The +ve also has an inline spade fuse. The brown and white wires dangling from the control module are the connections to the alarm once I get round to fitting that.

All working fine and very pleasant just to press a fob to unlock and lock the doors without searching for one of several keys, especially when it's dark, raining and hands are full of grandchild or shopping.

Next fitting the alarm..........

capo said:

And finally, finished the CDL installation

Wires from doors routed through rubber conduits; the conduit for the passenger door needs a bit of tweaking as it got a kink
View attachment 239732 View attachment 239735 View attachment 239734 View attachment 239731
Then wires in flexi tubing tucked behind a handy rail beneath the dash, all secured with heavy duty duct tape.
View attachment 239733
I was going to put the control module in the fuse box but the cover needs some fettling so for now I stuck it to the panel adjacent to the fuse box.
Live connected to the USB feed (former cigar lighter) in the fuse box and earthed to the fuse box base plate earth connection. The +ve also has an inline spade fuse. The brown and white wires dangling from the control module are the connections to the alarm once I get round to fitting that.
View attachment 239736
All working fine and very pleasant just to press a fob to unlock and lock the doors without searching for one of several keys, especially when it's dark, raining and hands are full of grandchild or shopping.

Next fitting the alarm..........

Click to expand...

Can you unscrew the fuse panel & put the modular behind it?
They used to have relays attached on older motors this way

Hicap phill said:

Can you unscrew the fuse panel & put the modular behind it?
They used to have relays attached on older motors this way

Click to expand...

It's pretty cramped back there as the the fuse holders for the headlights are fubar and have been replaced with blades and are tucked behind there with the relays.
But I will investigate further. It could go on the front of the fuse panel to the right of the fuse holders but I need to cut away a tab on the the back of fuse panel cover - its a tube to brace against the panel when the cover is screwed on.

@Hicap phill ..........CDL control box now fitted on the fuse panel and nicely hidden away behind the cover.

Added a USB/voltmeter to replace the shorting out cigar lighter, a new bulb for the clock and connected up the now working RWW

Found EP 90 all over the rear r/h wheel, checked the axle breather, all good, annealed the washers and replaced. Cleaned the wheel etc, I shall have to keep a good eye on it all to try and see where the oil is escaping, hopefully its the dust cap, can't be arsed to faff about with seals at the mo.

Yes it was the dust cap, cleaned everything with a rotary wire brush, then acetone, and gave the old dust seal a dose of silicon as a temp fix.
Got fed up of faffing about with dust caps over the years so pushed the boat out and ordered 4 of those HD drive members.

Removed the cobwebs
Started it up
Drove a total of 60 miles & added 60ltts of fuel.
Mrs is using it for the next few days

Began the alarm / immobiliser install but before I could do that I found some repairs were needed behind the dash binnacle:-

Heater switch wires melted and fused to the demister duct! All was working fine but I'm not taking chances. The damaged feed wires and the earth wire spliced, soldered and heat shrunk. Found a couple of other melted wires, cores ok just the plastic sleeves so amalgamating tape sorted those.

I knew there had been electrical problems behind the dash before I bought it but didn't realise how much. Had already replaced much of the wiring for the lights & indicators as those had melted! Goodness knows what the PO(s) have been up to

Anyway, routing and connections for the alarm boxes, sensors and wiring now identified and will finish off and test it tomorrow with a bit of luck.

capo said:

Began the alarm / immobiliser install but before I could do that I found some repairs were needed behind the dash binnacle:-
View attachment 239990 View attachment 239992 View attachment 239993
Heater switch wires melted and fused to the demister duct! All was working fine but I'm not taking chances. The damaged feed wires and the earth wire spliced, soldered and heat shrunk. Found a couple of other melted wires, cores ok just the plastic sleeves so amalgamating tape sorted those.

I knew there had been electrical problems behind the dash before I bought it but didn't realise how much. Had already replaced much of the wiring for the lights & indicators as those had melted! Goodness knows what the PO(s) have been up to

Anyway, routing and connections for the alarm boxes, sensors and wiring now identified and will finish off and test it tomorrow with a bit of luck.

Click to expand...

that was lucky, one step away from fire there

Rich.