Freelander td4 drowned, water in transmission

[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]Hi folks, I tried to drive my Freelander td4 (automatic) through a long puddle ..here in Russia last week, all was well at first until the front end fell into an unexpectedly deep hole, the water came to just below the air intake on top of the engine, fortunately, the pipe that goes to the wheel arch is not there so no water got in the engine. We were stuck in the water for about 15 minutes with the engine running before we got pulled out. I thought everything was ok until on the way home the car wouldn't take up drive after stopping at traffic lights. when it did there was a nasty juddering sound from the transmission. I am guessing that water got into the transmission somehow. Anyway, I started looking for a second-hand transmission as the old one already had some issues. I read that quite a few cars have the Jatco JF506E transmission particularly Jaguar X , my question is, Is it possible to use say, a Jaguar Jatco jf506e in a Freelander or does it have to come from another Freelander? They aren't very common here in Russia and the Jaguar transmission is over a hundred quid cheaper. Any insight much appreciated

Ouch!

I wouldn't think the boxes are interchangeable. The Freelander box output is to the IRD, others will probably have a diff built into it that the drive shafts connect to. I have no experience though but I'm sure someone will be able to let you know.

You may be better off investigating fixing your car - has it totally dried out? There's quite a bit of electronics on the box.

[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]

GrumpyGel said:

Ouch!

I wouldn't think the boxes are interchangeable. The Freelander box output is to the IRD, others will probably have a diff built into it that the drive shafts connect to. I have no experience though but I'm sure someone will be able to let you know.

You may be better off investigating fixing your car - has it totally dried out? There's quite a bit of electronics on the box.

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Still not dry yet. The interior is still soaking wet. It goes into drive when it wants to, it even drives. But it feels like the clutch is slipping. I am only guessing that water has got into the transmission. I don't really know what I am talking about. Gearbox was rebuilt last year and very soon after developed the clunky gear change problem I've read about in another thread on here. That's why I figured a second hand unit would be the way to go.

You can drain the gearbox of water, but it'll take a few changes to get it all out.
The breather is on the top of the box, and it can be extended, but from the factory, it's just a belt pipe on the top.
The interior will need proper drying with a dehumidifier.
The gearbox issue could due to water in the vehicle, as there's loads of electronics in the vehicle, which are all linked.

Nodge68 said:

You can drain the gearbox of water, but it'll take a few changes to get it all out.
The breather is on the top of the box, and it can be extended, but from the factory, it's just a belt pipe on the top.
The interior will need proper drying with a dehumidifier.
The gearbox issue could due to water in the vehicle, as there's loads of electronics in the vehicle, which are all linked.

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Is there anything other than at I can use to flush it out? As ATF costs an arm and a leg here. I assume that the breather is the little right angle pipe on the top of the box? Also , where is the filler cap located? Sorry for all the questions but I have no experience with auto boxes whatsoever.

badlander said:

Is there anything other than at I can use to flush it out? As ATF costs an arm and a leg here. I assume that the breather is the little right angle pipe on the top of the box? Also , where is the filler cap located? Sorry for all the questions but I have no experience with auto boxes whatsoever.

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You can use any Dexron 2 or Dexron 3 fluid as a flush, and being very common, should be pretty cheap worldwide.

Yes the breather is the little bent pipe on the top. If wading is to be done, it's sensible to extend it with rubber fuel hose to higher on the bulkhead, although it's a bit late for that now.

The filler is a small tube on the top of the gearbox valve cover, which is the black tin thing on the front (partially hidden by the lower boost pipe). The filler has a simple rubber bung to prevent contaminants entering the filler tube.

I know very little about this box - but what I do know is that people remove what they think is the drain bolt - but in actual fact its the bolt securing the reverse band which you can't just screw back in. If its removed, the gearbox needs a strip down to get reverse drive back.

So make sure you know which bolt is the drain bolt!

Getting all the water out will be difficult, if it was mine, I'd empty out what I could, then pour a load of solvent it to act as a drying agent, maybe blow some compressed air in to get the solvent to reach everywhere, then drain. Refill with the cheapest atf, run it for a few miles, drain and refill with the good stuff. There is a particular solvent that is used in industry as a drying agent but I can't remember what its called, it has three letters as it's common name.

Col

I recon this could just be electrical issues that need to dry out - however, if water did get into the workings of the box, could it have been heated and expanded to gas and blown something?

Nodge68 said:

You can use any Dexron 2 or Dexron 3 fluid as a flush, and being very common, should be pretty cheap worldwide.

Yes the breather is the little bent pipe on the top. If wading is to be done, it's sensible to extend it with rubber fuel hose to higher on the bulkhead, although it's a bit late for that now.

The filler is a small tube on the top of the gearbox valve cover, which is the black tin thing on the front (partially hidden by the lower boost pipe). The filler has a simple rubber bung to prevent contaminants entering the filler tube.

Click to expand...

Thanks very much for your help

GrumpyGel said:

I know very little about this box - but what I do know is that people remove what they think is the drain bolt - but in actual fact its the bolt securing the reverse band which you can't just screw back in. If its removed, the gearbox needs a strip down to get reverse drive back.

So make sure you know which bolt is the drain bolt!

Click to expand...

Thanks, I .am aware of the one not to touch, the one with the torx head

Colthebrummie said:

Getting all the water out will be difficult, if it was mine, I'd empty out what I could, then pour a load of solvent it to act as a drying agent, maybe blow some compressed air in to get the solvent to reach everywhere, then drain. Refill with the cheapest atf, run it for a few miles, drain and refill with the good stuff. There is a particular solvent that is used in industry as a drying agent but I can't remember what its called, it has three letters as it's common name.

Col

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That's what I was thinking

i used to work in the soft drinks industry and we used a chemical called S02, i think that`s what it was called, to clean out the tanks and pipework.
that evaporated leaving everything dry you needed a mask though because the smell would knock you out . sulfur dioxide

Colthebrummie said:

Getting all the water out will be difficult, if it was mine, I'd empty out what I could, then pour a load of solvent it to act as a drying agent, maybe blow some compressed air in to get the solvent to reach everywhere, then drain. Refill with the cheapest atf, run it for a few miles, drain and refill with the good stuff. There is a particular solvent that is used in industry as a drying agent but I can't remember what its called, it has three letters as it's common name.

Col

Click to expand...

Be yer thinkin uv MEK, mai bud? Methyl Ethyl Ketone?

Nodge68 said:

You can use any Dexron 2 or Dexron 3 fluid as a flush, and being very common, should be pretty cheap worldwide.

Yes the breather is the little bent pipe on the top. If wading is to be done, it's sensible to extend it with rubber fuel hose to higher on the bulkhead, although it's a bit late for that now.

The filler is a small tube on the top of the gearbox valve cover, which is the black tin thing on the front (partially hidden by the lower boost pipe). The filler has a simple rubber bung to prevent contaminants entering the filler tube.

Click to expand...

hi mate

seeing this reminds me for when i extended all the breathers and indeed as u say bit late now , at the time I bought a complete breather kit, fingers crossed the OP can save the box

didnt madza also use this gearbox

DevonGuy said:

Be yer thinkin uv MEK, mai bud? Methyl Ethyl Ketone?

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No, it's come to me now, IPA, isopropyl alcohol.

Col

Colthebrummie said:

No, it's come to me now, IPA, isopropyl alcohol.

Col

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Ah yes, another print industry must-have. Used to buy it in 25l drums, great multi-purpose degreaser.

I've been under the car today and I think I've figured out where all the drain/fill/level plugs are, need to get a couple of gallons of ATF before I can go further. Thanks for all the replies.

I've found all the information there is about the Jatco JF506 E, It seems that they are not cross vehicle compatible i.e. jag to LR I've put the links below in case anyone else wants info about these transmissions.
https://at-manuals.com/manuals/09a-vw-jf506e-2/
https://at-manuals.com/manuals/jf506-09a-download-page/
https://at-manuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/manuals/Manual AKPP_JF506E.pdf
If you follow the links you can find schematics, repair manuals, and all part numbers in case you are brave enough to attempt a repair yourself. I think I am going to be searching for a replacement box/ torque converter, taking into account the fact that mine had problems even before we went swimming....

badlander said:

I think I am going to be searching for a replacement box/ torque converter, taking into account the fact that mine had problems even before we went swimming....

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Might be best. Don't forget you'll need a box from an identical vehicle.