Bulkhead spacers

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Cps

Active Member
Posts
63
Location
North Yorkshire
Im currntly ploding on with my td5 130 rebuild and am trying to figure out the reason landrover fit the washeres between the chassis outrigger and the bulkhead
Ive striped repaired and galved the origanal chassis and bulkhead so asumed just rebuild with same amount of shims/washers which in my case is quite a bit 4 per side
Problem this seems to make is it sends the seat box back so as when its bolted to the middle two brackets which have the front seatbelt brackets traped between the brackrts on the chassis and the seat box rear pannel it seams to bend it forwards so it had a 8mm bend in it making the rear floor not fit . Holes in sill channels lined up but floor to seat box was more than a hole out
So i removed all the spacers between chassis and bulkhead and now rear floor fits fine infact perfect which a worry with landrover
Door gaps are preset as b posts are welded and bulkhead squares up fine
Question i have will this trip me up further on in thr build?
 
Im currntly ploding on with my td5 130 rebuild and am trying to figure out the reason landrover fit the washeres between the chassis outrigger and the bulkhead
Ive striped repaired and galved the origanal chassis and bulkhead so asumed just rebuild with same amount of shims/washers which in my case is quite a bit 4 per side
Problem this seems to make is it sends the seat box back so as when its bolted to the middle two brackets which have the front seatbelt brackets traped between the brackrts on the chassis and the seat box rear pannel it seams to bend it forwards so it had a 8mm bend in it making the rear floor not fit . Holes in sill channels lined up but floor to seat box was more than a hole out
So i removed all the spacers between chassis and bulkhead and now rear floor fits fine infact perfect which a worry with landrover
Door gaps are preset as b posts are welded and bulkhead squares up fine
Question i have will this trip me up further on in thr build?
The washers are there to give the adjustment between the A post and the B post to get the door shut gaps correct. I'm not sure what you mean about them being preset?
How does putting spacers in the bulkhead outrigger bolts move the seat box position :confused: Which bulkhead are you referring to? I think I must be getting confused because I'm only familiar with the 90 setup.
 
The washers are there to give the adjustment between the A post and the B post to get the door shut gaps correct. I'm not sure what you mean about them being preset?
How does putting spacers in the bulkhead outrigger bolts move the seat box position :confused: Which bulkhead are you referring to? I think I must be getting confused because I'm only familiar with the 90 setup.
Pic of bulkhead to outrigger (no spacers in )
20210510_201931.jpg


Pic showing bottom of b post welded to sill channel
20210510_201947.jpg

Pic of end of sill channel to a post/bulkhead this is only way to ajust door gap on a 130dcpu by meanes of spacers but its set at
34 5/8ths so is corect
20210510_202001.jpg


Next two pics show the bracket and back of front row seat box these two brackets are welded to chassis so by taking the spaceers out of the bulkhead it brings the b posts forward which then makes the seat box move forward making the back of the seat box straight
20210510_202138.jpg
20210510_202159.jpg


With the spacers in the bulkhead when the center two pairs of bolts were tight it bent the seat box forward in the middle making the rear floor holes to the seat box well out

I carnt see a problem by removing the spacers as all it has done is move things forward and the back of the cab is surported by a channel section which has slotted holes so should fit . I beleve older defenders the brackets were welded to the channel so may well have caused me a ploblem
 

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Thought so seen somwhere where the bottom of a 90 B post is slightly ajustable
So, the question remains why did your's have 4 spacer washers in? If it's causing problems with the seat box and floor I would defo leave them out. If you're sure the door gap is correct, then I can't see it affecting anything else. I'm presuming a 90 front door is the same size as a 130 front door, so I can pop out and measure the gap between my bulkhead A post and a reference point on the B post somewhere if you like. It's not a problem!

EDIT
Hmmm, what about the roof?
 
Thats the worry . Landrover fitted them for a reason even though the seat box an rear floor were a very poor fit when i stripped it down
Im not concerned about door gap as that is set by the b post welded in position
All it means is the 5 brackets that surport the rear cab will move forward on there slots by the amount that i took out of the front (asuming slots are long enuf if not spacers will be needed there instead)
Or am i being daft thinking its that simple ?
Maybe landrover made it on a friday and couldent be arsed to take the bulkhead bolts out again as they were super tight as bulkhead was 3mm narrow on the centers of the mounting tubes . Was like that when i took it off and stayed same after new footwells and galvernizing had i thought about itvi could have streached it a bit when i did the footwells
 
I think everyday was a Friday when Land Rover were building Defenders :rolleyes:
I'm now wondering about the front wing position as they are fixed to the bulkhead and the front of the chassis and the radiator surround.
 
Ah never gave that a thought
Geuss i need to mock wings up to see what they look like
Im prity sure rest of cab and roof will b ok
On another note i did an outrigger on a frends 90 and it only had 1 spacer in so clearly landrover only worked to the nearest 1/4 inch
 
Ah never gave that a thought
Geuss i need to mock wings up to see what they look like
Im prity sure rest of cab and roof will b ok
On another note i did an outrigger on a frends 90 and it only had 1 spacer in so clearly landrover only worked to the nearest 1/4 inch
Yeah, everything moves about a bit when you assemble all the parts. I reckon you could fit a whole Defender together and use 3 spacers in the bulkhead bolt. Take it all apart and fit the same bits back together and it would work just as nicely with 1 spacer.
Yeah, I would try a wing on the bulkhead and see how it lines up with it's fixing points at the front.
 
Yeah, everything moves about a bit when you assemble all the parts. I reckon you could fit a whole Defender together and use 3 spacers in the bulkhead bolt. Take it all apart and fit the same bits back together and it would work just as nicely with 1 spacer.
Yeah, I would try a wing on the bulkhead and see how it lines up with it's fixing points at the front.
Now i just need to rember where i stored the wings
 
Now i just need to rember where i stored the wings
I had parts in nearly every room in the house :)
Good luck mate, I'm sure it will all work out. Remember they're not a precision instrument!
Happy to bounce ideas around for getting it back together, so post away!
 
I had parts in nearly every room in the house :)
Good luck mate, I'm sure it will all work out. Remember they're not a precision instrument!
Happy to bounce ideas around for getting it back together, so post away!

Ye i dont know how some can do it with just a standard garage i have bits all over and still short of room in a 1000 squire ft garsge/workshop
 
Have a look at these videos and see if they're of any help, if you haven't already sorted it








Thanks. Ive looked at those befor but with it being a 4 door then there is no ajustment for door gap . Front doors that is . There is a bit for the back doors
Also mine were/are set an 1/8 of an inch smaller than mike is surgesting
Which is how it was when i striped it
Im not bothered about the doors fitting as im 100% sure they will be fine and as its td5 everything is sloted brackets so carnt see any problems just niggling me it had so many spacerers in when i striped it down but as i said in previous post seat box and rear floor fit poor
We will see when i get a bit more bits back on
 
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