Aye, that's the point. The grill is a 1 piece by the looks of it, not the original with wings attached for the lights. Something special lurks me thinks.Matches the headlights
Got to be some sort halfbred 94. Doesn’t even need the arch extensions- they are there purely for the image!!
P38A Come on! Who bought it??
- Thread starter Mark Piercy
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,255
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
‘Special’ is one term for it lol. Hunk of junk I reckon be stripped for parts and weighed in
Fitting classic headlights and grille doesn’t make it classic or p38 some horrible place in between.
If you go out in the sticks where there are no street lights the fogs are worth it (on a DT
)
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,255
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
no auto for you either then
Nope. Manual lol.
- Posts
- 18,944
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Best box on the oil burner. Auto felt sluggish on the oil burner to me.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,255
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Was what sold me on my p38. Thought it was a modification never saw a manual RR before
- Posts
- 724
- Location
- Lincolnshire
Any regrets compared to auto?
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,255
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Never tried an auto p38 diesel to be fair so can’t really have an opinion on that. Towed much and never any issues. Can take a beating for sure.
If you smash the filler plug to smitherines on a manual box, that can be annoying I can tell you that
If you smash the filler plug to smitherines on a manual box, that can be annoying I can tell you that
I was of the same impression, but the clutch design lets it down. Rather than sharing a similar setup with other Land Rovers, it’s bespoke to the P38 and the 2.8 petrol defender. So prices are high and parts are hard to come by. I have been considering an auto swap with the modified Ashcroft torque converter.
- Posts
- 18,944
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
You're right about the clutch setup but once sorted it is fine. V8 is fine with auto but I think yhe oil burner is better with manual, although chipped with the HP24 box would probably be fine.
I'm considering a HP24 with the ashcroft TC. I'm already chipped and its really woken the car up lol.
As for the clutch side of things, I fitted a HD clutch kit but the pedal was horrendously heavy. Coupled with the poor release mechanism and nothing available to ease the pedal I ended up fitting a standard spec clutch. Wouldn't have been any good round town which is where my P38 spends most of its time.
- Posts
- 18,944
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I had a heavy duty clutch and didn't notice it much. Did you replace the Teflon coated brass bushes in casing where the shaft sits in? The Teflon wears and then friction material gets in and it won't work properly. First sign is usually the spiral pins on the clutch fork snapping.
Brand new bushes were fitted along with a new seal. Clutch arm was welded as a precaution on the advice of someone running the same clutch. Clutch was bled correctly but the pedal was horrendously heavy, and I’ve spent most of my driving years running performance clutches.
- Posts
- 18,944
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
All I can think is that it must be the fingers on the clutch or possibly something blocking flow from the master cylinder down to the slave cylinder.
On the upside, think of the size your quads will be.
Both replaced, rebled when new clutch was fitted and no issues. It’s the double diaphragm what is the problem. I’d hate to be sat in traffic and my leg twitch or something.
And noo, my left leg has only just got back to normal size after running paddle clutches over the years.
