Rear Output Shaft Removal

Hi,

I Have a problem in that the rear output shaft on my transfere case has a snapped split pin in it. I have tried drilling and drifting it out but its a flippin mess and compleatley blocked.....

Is there any way to remove this from the transfer case without removing it from the truck??? I'm guessing no, but you never know!

Thanks
Rob

no, shaft goes right through the box and has 2 gears secured with a difficult to get at circlip

I thought as much, I did have photos when i rebuilt it all but couldnt find them as they're VERY old.....

thank you!

Is this the split pin through the nut that holds the drive flange on?

tottot said:

Is this the split pin through the nut that holds the drive flange on?

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yeah, it is, its snapped at both ends, eaten 2 drill bits and bent my drifts

Chocolate drifts ? Can be a bit awkward I know with it in the dish of the flange. Are nut and flange still on ?
If so put truck in 4th gear with some good chocks at the wheels. Put socket on nut and turn off in the normal way. The split pin is only soft and will give way. Take note of its position as may be hard to see afterwards and look part of shaft. With nut and flange removed access will be better and remains should tap out.

I've got the nut and the dish off and its still refusing to shift. I might take it down to the local garage and see if they can shift it! The most simple of jobs is never simple.....

What is the dish you talk of?
Is the drive flange off?

Blackburn said:

What is the dish you talk of?
Is the drive flange off?

Click to expand...

Yes.... the drive flange is off.... still doing the bendy snapperoo with yet another set of drifts

Have you snapped a drill bit off in the hole ?

I would be tempted to dress the ends then source a nylock nut to fit instead.
Had a look in series 2 parts book to see if it identified the thread but afraid not.

tottot said:

Have you snapped a drill bit off in the hole ?

Click to expand...

Erm... yes... :'(

Blackburn said:

I would be tempted to dress the ends then source a nylock nut to fit instead.
Had a look in series 2 parts book to see if it identified the thread but afraid not.

Click to expand...

Do you think a nylock would hold?? I must get toasty down their on the long runs?!?! Ill have alook to see what temp nylocks go to

Drill bits are of a hard materiel and an even harder [ colbalt ? ] type would be needed to remove.
The Nylock Idea came to me too as that is how the flange is held on in a Defender. Make sure there is enough thread available for the nylock to grip on and check regular if you go with this idea.

The only way it would get hot enough to be a problem would be if handbrake was binding.

I thought the shaft had 2 holes at 90 deg, why don't you use the other one? Vary the washer thickness if you need to.
Drilling split pins out is a bad idea as they are split so they can grab the drill. You have to use a small punch and try to get one half moving, heat as well.