How do you replace front brake shoes

Hello

I have a 1976 series 3 109 with 11" brakes front and rear. I have got kits for all 4 wheels including springs, shoes and wheel cylinders. I have manged to get all the old stuff off the front passenger side wheel and the new wheel cylinders on but how to you get the new shoes and springs on?

Thanks to anyone one that could help

Muscles and a big screwdriver to lever them into place.

I always take photos of everything before I start removing stuff, especially if it is going to be few days before I start putting it back together. The only issue is when it was assembled wrong in the first place.

Col

Have you got 11" brakes all round as they normally only have 11" on the front and 10" on rear and or 10" all round.

cornish rattler said:

Have you got 11" brakes all round as they normally only have 11" on the front and 10" on rear and or 10" all round.

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One tons have 11x3 on the front and 11x2 on the back.

To answer the OP I assemble in place complete with springs, leaving one end of a shoe not sat it place.

Then clamp a mole grip on the end of the shoe in line with the brake lining so you can use it to lever the shoe back, stretching the springs enough to sit the shoe end in place.

You used to be able to by a drum brakeshoe fitting tool made by Girling makes it so easy.
Made my self one from pics on the net.
Used it again just last week to fit new handbrake shoes.

Blackburn said:

You used to be able to by a drum brakeshoe fitting tool made by Girling makes it so easy.
Made my self one from pics on the net.
Used it again just last week to fit new handbrake shoes.

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Clever. Is there room to use it under the wheel arch when the brake plate is still attached to the vehicle. The way I do it is to put the spring in place then use a big screwdriver and a selection of swear words to lever the shoe into the slave cylinder slot. Your tool does look easy. I have seen brake shoe spring tools on eBay which are basically a t piece bar with a hook at the end to pull the spring.

Col

That is a genius tool - need to get one made asap. To the OP - basically follow the same principle of having one end on the piston seat and the spring already attached. I have always used a length of para cord with a toggle on to thread through one of the spare holes in the shoe or looped around the top end to put the pressure on enough to slot the second end home. (However, after seeing that nifty gadget, I'm changing my method - everyday is a school day as they say).

I use that brake tool but if you don't have one a large adjustable spanner works. Use the spanner on the bottom of one shoe and get a big screwdriver behind it and get it clear of the rubber boot on the cylinder. Leave the springs on then do the other one and take them off with the springs still on (work them over the hub.) Lay them on the ground and swap the springs over, work them back over the hub, get one on then get the spanner on the other one. Have a hide mallet ready, pull hard and then hit it across once its clear of the rubber boot. Last time I did a set on my LWB it took 45 mins per brake from jack up to wheel back on and jack off. That's with nothing seized obviously and no bleeding the TLS brakes as that would have added 2 days...

blue beasty said:

One tons have 11x3 on the front and 11x2 on the back.

To answer the OP I assemble in place complete with springs, leaving one end of a shoe not sat it place.

Then clamp a mole grip on the end of the shoe in line with the brake lining so you can use it to lever the shoe back, stretching the springs enough to sit the shoe end in place.

Click to expand...

Sorry blue my bad i didn't see the 109 bit